Stopper Redux

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Dave_M

Dave_M

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Joined
Dec 10, 2005
Messages
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Location
Clovis, CA, USA.
After turning my first stoppers and really liking the raw natural wood look and feel, I thought it would be best to put a finish on them considering how they will be used. I was very please with how well they finished.

These both sold to the first people I showed them to and I have requests for more, which was a little surprising to me. In the process of showing the stoppers, I also had the oppertunity to sell a few pens. It's turned out to be a very profitable day for me.

1_IMG_2446.jpg
 
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Those are gorgeous, Dave!!

I'm glad you are having luck selling them. All the wine drinkers around me looked at mine and said "those are really nice. But we never have partial bottles left so we don't need stoppers". :rolleyes:
 
warreng8170 said:
Same question here. I have turned a couple of nice stoppers, but can't get a good finish to save my life. I would love know how you achieved that.
Click to expand...

I've tried just about everything searching for that great finish that's works well for me. After doing some research, I found Behlen's Qualalacq Lacquer and I love the stuff.

From Behlen: "This Nitrocellulose based lacquer is Behlen's top of the line clear spraying lacquer. It is highly resistant to alcohol, water, moderate heat and abrasion. It's been designed to form a hard film capable of taking punishment that would ruin most other lacquers and finishes."

A lot of custom guitar builders use Qualalacq Lacquer because it forms a very hard finish, it's UV resistance, and it doesn't effect the color of the wood. It dries quick and the finish is much harder than Deft or any other lacquer I've tried. I did try brushing it on, but it dries so quick that it doesn't flow evenly before it sets. Airbrushing works great as long as you are careful to give it a nice even coat. I usually lay on the first coat and follow up with a second coat about 15 minutes later. I let the second coat dry for 24 hours then lightly wet sand with 1200 sand paper to smooth out the surface and ensure there are no uneven spots in the finish. After wet sanding, I spray two more coats about 15 minutes a part. I let it dry at least 24 hours but usually 48 before wet sanding one more time then polish on the buffing wheel with the white diamond. I let the final coat cure at least a week from the time I sprayed it before I put it in the customer's hands.

The only real issue I've had with this lacquer is on cold "85+ humidity" mornings I get some blushing in the finish. Usually adding a little thinner to the lacquer before spraying fixes that. The blushing is right on the surface so a light wet sanding also clears it up. Oh, I also found that standard lacquer thinner doesn't work well with the Qualalacq Lacquer so I purchased their Qualalacq Lacquer thinner which works fine.

I like the feel of the finished Qualalacq Lacquer better than Enduro or any Poly I've tried and when the Qualalacq Lacquer is polished it looks like liquid glass and it doesn't have that plastic feel. I guess one more finishing technique to add to the many.
 
nwcatman said:
so.......it has to be airbrushed on?
Click to expand...

I've tried brushing it on and I didn't have a lot of luck. Not that I can't brush or wipe it on, but there is more work on the backend in terms of sanding it smooth to get the ridges & brush strokes out. Using the airbush, it goes on really smooth and requires a very light wet sanding to finish it off. Aside from the fact that it is a sold as a spraying lacquer, spraying the lacquer is what works best for me.

I also wear a good dual filter mask when I do any spraying. The stuff really messes with my sinuses.
 
penhead said:
Excellent finish..!

Searched woodcraft and found this "Application: spray gun."
http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/200...ode=06INGOOG&gclid=CPyfg8L84p8CFQdY2godZxO_GQ

LANMAN,
If you are airbrushing on, would you mind expanding a little on your tools, ie, how did you match the aircompressor to your spray gun..??..My little peabrain is not grasping the gun Cfm and PSI matching.
Click to expand...

Thanks John.

I started out using an airbrush from Harbor Freight which worked out just fine. Later I upgraded to the Badger Crescendo 175 double action airbrush. The double action airbrush gives me much more control over what I'm doing but it took a while to build up the experience to know how to use it effectively.

I have a 150 psi 30 gallon compressor set to 20 psi with an in line moisture filter supplying air to my airbrush. Not much to it really. It doesn't take a lot of air to run a small airbrush. I always wear a dual cartridge filter mask when spraying any finish. Cleaning the airbrush is obviously more work than cleaning a basic paint brush, but it's not bad. I keep one jar of lacquer and one jar of thinner. After I've sprayed the lacquer, I swap out the lacquer for the jar of thinner I spray a little thinner through the airbrush then disassemble and wipe down the needle, tip, head, & regulator with a thinner dampend rag.

I hope that little bit of info is helpful.
 
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