Steel Wool -vs- Micro Mesh

[bnoles]

Last night I watched my pen turning DVDs by Rex and Kip for the umteenth time and really enjoy their teachings. These 2 guys really know their stuff and have so much to offer us new pen turners.

While I have turned a good many pens at this point and have been experimenting heavily with finishing and sanding technique with MM, I was noticing that Rex and Kip sand only to 600 and then go to only 0000 steel wool to complete the process. Their pens look great on the screen with a high polish look before applying the finish itself. This has me wondering if there is that much advantage to the MM? I have been very happy with the outcome of my MM finishes, but have to admit that it is a long drawn out process going thru 9 grades. The 0000 steel wool sure looks to get there faster and has my curiosity up.

I would like to get the general opinion and pros and cons of these 2 methods. I am going to try the 600 thru steel wool process as soon as I have a chance on a not so important pen, but with my eyes being poor from age and a pending medical condition, I was hoping to possibly hear what the 20-20 group has to offer on the subject.

How do you feel the 2 compare?

 

[samuel07]

I don't believe the 0000 steel wool will give you the "glass like finish" but only a very nice satin. Could be wrong though. Give it a try. One thing I do know is that all the steps of the MM realy bring out all the grain in the wood (I believe some call it depth). Do a side by side comparison of the same wood and I believe you'll see the difference.

 

[ctEaglesc]

I sometimes use steel wool to cut down a CA layer but for a final sanding before a finish I consider it a lazy way out.
IIRC MM was used to remove scratches for airplane wind shieds.
Tey that with XXXX steel wool.
Perhaps the use of MM was not invented when you tapes were made.
I have read where some well known pen makers stop at 600 grit.I have done both and there s no comparison to using the MM all the way.
As Russ stated in his finishing tip.
Furniture manufacturers stop at 220 grit, some may go as high as 400. they believe it isn't necessary.His reply, "have you tried it"
I have and it is worth the effort.
I have seen too many hand made pens at shows whjere the seller complains they aren't selling well.After seeing the appearance I have no wonder as to why.
Do what you wish but a bad finish( sanding is the initial step of the finishing process)will make an otherwise great pen mediocre... at best.

 

[mrcook4570]

I've not used steel wool, but I would think that it could easily discolor lighter woods.

MM is a great product. I can only comment on its effectiveness when used with a CA finish. I have tested a blank with and without MM prior to CA application. I do not see any difference in the final outcome (that is after applying and polishing the CA) between the two halves. So I save some time and no longer MM before applying CA.

That said, use whatever gives you the best results.

 

[Dario]

I think Stan hit it.

I too can't see the difference between MM finished preped blank and not either. I usually sand my blank down to 600 grit then apply my CA finish. I believe you can do the same using OOOO steel wool but be aware that it may discolor lighter blanks.

I don't believe you will attain same finish with the steel wool on your finish though. I always use MM on all my finish (especially CA which is my favorite).

 

[bnoles]

Thanks for all the great imput, guys.

I went back and researched further the time frame that Rex and Kip made these DVDs and it appears that it would have been the year 2000 or later. I am not sure how long MM has been around in the pen turning circles and why they would not have included it in their teachings.

I am certainly going to give Stan's recommendation a try as that will cut down the amount of time spent sanding. I am also going to try the steal wool just for grins and comparison when I get a chance. I always want to do my very best in anything I do and I love experimenting with suggestions offered by others. Y'all have always been so much help with your experience and offers of help.

I will stay with the MM as it has done well by me to this point. Just thought I'd look at other methods along the way as well.

 

[Russb]

Be careful with steel wool. It could get wrapped aroung the blank taking you finger with it or at least a nasty surprise. If your finish is the least bit wet/sticky bits of the steel wool can flake off and stick to the finish. Even if all goes well the steel wool residue is around the work area, I find it a plain nuisance. If anyone is looking for an alternative to MM take at look at 3M Trizact. Nice for synthetics.

 

[kent4Him]

I used to use steel wool, but there are problems, including what russ said. You may not see the steel residue and it may be there after you apply your finish. Unless you are doing something with a lot of curves, and you like your MM results, I would stay with the MM.