Steel City Lathe Problems

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T

trsmth

Member
Joined
May 25, 2007
Messages
52
Location
Canton, OH, USA.
I bought the variable speed lathe from Steel City in September last year. The problem I am having is that the switch keeps going out. It just gets to a point that when you try to turn it off it wont. I took the switch out and took it apart, and the contacts are fried. it consists of a metal part that rocks on one of the metal spades and it is burnt there and the contact points are melted. I called them in December when it went out and they promptly sent out a new switch. Now we are in April and it has gone out again with the same problems. I called them again and they have sent out a new switch again. I asked them if they have had these issues and they stated that they have replaced a few but not a substantial amount. I bought this because of its 5 year warranty and other than the switch problem I love this lathe. My question is if anybody else has had the same problem or if there could be something else wrong that is causing an over current situation in the circuit? I have only logged about 40-45 hours on it since December when I replaced it the first time. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Afraid I can't help, but I'm sure sorry to read of this. I bought a Steel City Unisaw last year and have not no problem. I absolutely love it. Made me want to look at their lathe. I will look some more! You shouldn't have to but I would think of maybe putting a heavier after market switch on it if this keeps up. That means jury riging and you just shouldn't have to do that on a new machine.

Call them back and say you want a new lathe to go with the next switch they have to send you!:(
 
Don't know about the Steel City lathe, but the Jet mini has a similar issue with their switches. Mine is a year and a half old and I replaced it a few months ago.
Switches take a huge amount of abuse, especially on something like a lathe. They go on and off so many times during use. Maybe dozens of times during one project. I'm not making excuses for any manufactures product shortcomings. It's just not that hard to understand.
On my Jet, which I love, I went to the Borg and picked up the best toggle switch they had and haven't had a problem yet. And if I do, I'll replace it again. I find it a small price to pay for such a great tool.
You didn't mention if yours was a typical toggle style switch or a paddle style.
Maybe an upgrade may be in your best interest. If you can find a suitable upgrade that will bolt in. You don't want to modify a tool under warranty and affect the warranty.
By the way, I had a switch fail in a Craftsman table saw as well. Same fried conductors inside.
Just my 2 cents, good luck and hope you get back to turning soon.
 
Sorry to hear about your trouble with the Steel City...I purchased a Steel City drum sander when they first came out and haven't had any problems.

On another note, years ago when I purchased my Jet Minit lathe, someone in our turning club advised me that the switch on the lathe took a real beating, and suggested that I buy a foot controlled on/off vacuum switch. I did and love it and haven't had any problems. The lathe switch gets turned on once when I start turning and stays in the on position, and for the rest of the turning session, the on/off is controlled by the vacuum pressure from the foot switch. Also free's both hands for whatever I am doing.
 
Originally posted by penhead

Sorry to hear about your trouble with the Steel City...I purchased a Steel City drum sander when they first came out and haven't had any problems.

On another note, years ago when I purchased my Jet Minit lathe, someone in our turning club advised me that the switch on the lathe took a real beating, and suggested that I buy a foot controlled on/off vacuum switch. I did and love it and haven't had any problems. The lathe switch gets turned on once when I start turning and stays in the on position, and for the rest of the turning session, the on/off is controlled by the vacuum pressure from the foot switch. Also free's both hands for whatever I am doing.
Click to expand...

Great idea, I like it!
 
I have a JET mini so I expect to have to deal with this problem sooner or later, myself. I know others have suggested using a switched power strip; but I have reservations about the quality of the switches in some of those units.

For about $10-$12, you can pick up components at HD or Lowes to make up your own switched receptacle. All you need is a dual gang box, cover plate, standard 20 amp receptacle and 20 amp switch, 5 or 6 feet of #14 ext. cord wire and a male plug. (If you want a longer cord, I would recommend #12 gauge wire.) You can wire-up one of the receptacles on the switch and leave the other hot all of the time for a light or other use. I don't know if the standard 20 amp toggle switches are any better than the paddle switches that come with the lathes; but even if they aren't, you can get one at any home center for 99¢ if a replacement is required and not have to worry about being down while the mfg. ships you a new one.
 
I've had the switch on my Jet mini go out... I thought the motor was out and ordered a new motor... it was about 4 years old and saw a lot of use, but now think it was just the switch.. when I put the new motor on, I pulled the switch and it came out in pieces... I put it back together and it's worked like a charm since...

My problem is my Delta table saw... the switch keeps hanging up in the on position and I can shut it off.. even with the cover installed, I seem to get a lot of sawdust in the switch... I'm going to move it outside the saw housing and see if that stops the problem.
 
Just an update. I got my new switch on Friday, put it in on Saturday. Turned a bowl and 2 pens and it is sticking again. The switch they sent this time is a little different. It has 4 spades on the back so I'm assuming that it is a 2 pole switch , but it has the same part # on it. I guess I'll have to call them again today. I don't know if putting the main power on an external switch is a good thing or not. I'll ask them if the switch is between the incoming power and the variable speed circuit or the var. speed control and the motor. If it is the latter, then it won't work as designed and could burn up the var speed control.
 
Never had a switch problem with my Grizzly tools. Lathe(s), drill press and bandsaw all get much use. On and off frequently. Never had a problem. Their replacement switches are only $4.00. Suggest you get a couple and try. If those fry, methinks you should look to an electrical problem rather than the switches.
 
All switches will get burning and charing inside, there is an arc when the switch is turned off. Basically when the power is flowing it has the ability to arc between connections for just a short time as the plates move apart. this is why you will sometimes see a spark when you turn off a light switch. all mechanical switches will do this. for the metal to actually melt so bad that it remains in contact is another story. Here is what I would do. I would replace the switch one more time so I know the electrical is safe. I would leave the switch in the on position then plug the lathe into another power devise that has it's own switch. the floor switch mentioned, power strip or something. turn the lathe on and off with the second switch. You also might be able to get a better quality switch from a local electronics store.
 
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