Stabilizing Blanks

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LostMountaineer

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Harvest, AL, USA.
I cannot use the resins to stabilize blanks because my shop is in my garage. My wife is hyper sensitive to the chemicals. I cannot even use CA or it sets her off.

Would anyone consider stabilizing some spalted hackberry, pecan, and beech for me?
 
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I know that you wrote "chemicals," but I would ask for a tad more clarification. All paints and thinners? Acetone and thinners? Poly and enamel thinners too? Water based latex paints? Waterbased urethanes and lacquers?

The reason that I am asking is that my mom wanted me to refinish a dresser in 2000 but did not want the smell. I did it with waterbased poly and she had no problems with that.

Now on to the next part - I don't know if anyone has tried water based paints as a stabilizer, but it is possible that it could work. Enduro is a water based finish that could possibly be used. These finishes would need at minimum a week and possibly a month to cure in a very warm environment.

I have used 1. acetone and desolved acrylic and 2. thinned polyurethane. The acetone/acryl is dry in a day. The Poly takes a week in the summer. On water based polys, I have no clue if it would work, but stranger things have happened as people experimented - would you believe that someone uses "super glue" as a finish? [:D]

Just thinking outside the box (and trying to think inside the garage) here. [;)]
 
You mention 2 reasons that you can not stabalize, your garage and your wife. Is your wifes sensativity so bad that you could not even stabalize in the garage or is it starting to get cold enough where you are that the garage is too cold for stabalization?


One project I plan to do some day is make a small dog house like structure that I can easily heat. There are heaters that only get warm and thus would not ignite the fumes from casting. If my math is right I can make a casting box that I can leave ouside in sub freezing weather and maintain it at 70F+.

Something along these lines make work for you, you just want to make sure that nothing you use as a heater has any surface that gets over 90F since some casting materials have flash points in the high 90s before they cure.
 
Hank, I appreciate the information but even latex sets the asthma off. I have looked on the forum for tips on stabilization but my time is so very limited right now. I just got in from the garage wher I was setting up stuff to turn for a craft show in October. It is 11:00 PM here and after a full day at work and then penturning I am wore out!

I am going to look into this more. I want to save these blanks since nature has taken the time and trouble to mark them for me. I occasionaly bust one. My biggest problem is the very ends of the barrels chipping out. If this happens it is almost impossible to fix. I am considering the use of pickguard the next time it happens, and by the way that could be tommorrow, I just glued up 20 7mm Euros for production. Any way I have seen a few of your posts and will be contacting you about this. The water based paint sounds very interesting and it is still fairly warm here. I wish I had brought this up a few weeks ago when it was getting into the high 100 +teens here. I also have a very crazy brother in law who used to paint cars and is very experienced in the craft of shade tree chemistry. He probably would be very interested in trying to stabilize some wood. He has been trying to dye it! I sent him some Cucumber and he dyed it, I have not turned yet but it ought to be very interesting. He is a master modeler and is always looking for something new. If I can get my wife to set up her camera this weekend I will try to get some pictures up on the web for everyone to look over and comment on.

Moody Harvey

Originally posted by leehljp
<br />I know that you wrote "chemicals," but I would ask for a tad more clarification. All paints and thinners? Acetone and thinners? Poly and enamel thinners too? Water based latex paints? Waterbased urethanes and lacquers?

The reason that I am asking is that my mom wanted me to refinish a dresser in 2000 but did not want the smell. I did it with waterbased poly and she had no problems with that.

Now on to the next part - I don't know if anyone has tried water based paints as a stabilizer, but it is possible that it could work. Enduro is a water based finish that could possibly be used. These finishes would need at minimum a week and possibly a month to cure in a very warm environment.

I have used 1. acetone and desolved acrylic and 2. thinned polyurethane. The acetone/acryl is dry in a day. The Poly takes a week in the summer. On water based polys, I have no clue if it would work, but stranger things have happened as people experimented - would you believe that someone uses "super glue" as a finish? [:D]

Just thinking outside the box (and trying to think inside the garage) here. [;)]
Click to expand...
 
Odorless ca can be found at www.woodenwonderstx.com click on ca glue and it is about half way down the page. Some soak wood in thined with water, white glue or yellow glue and it will work to harden solf wood but it takes awhile to dry.
Bob
 
Go the rout of sending out the wood for professional stabilization I really doubt that you will ever have any problems afterwards.

Look here at these samples of pistol grips to see the effects of the process .. http://www.clccustomgrips.com, and go here as well .. http://www.stabilizedwood.com/clear.shtml. These folks work magic with the wood and stabilization.

Keep us informed of your progress ... [:D]
 
Originally posted by LostMountaineer
<br />I cannot use the resins to stabilize blanks because my shop is in my garage. My wife is hyper sensitive to the chemicals. I cannot even use CA or it sets her off.
Click to expand...

That's the very reason why I got rid of my wife.
 
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