Stabelized Spalted Cypress

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joefyffe

joefyffe

Passed Away Aug 19, 2018
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Location
Indianapolis (almost Zionsville) Indiana
O.K. I came into a few blanks of spalted cypress. Had a pen (cigar) sold from the lot, so, as would be the normal thing to do, I put a piece of it on the lathe. I turned it round and proceeded to part it into the top and bottom. I got my "Sorby" parting tool about 1/16" in and the blank broke the rest of the way. Yep! Broke in two! So, I put another on the lathe and went a little easier with the muscle. This one got about 1/8" before breaking in two. I contacted my client and explained I would not be using this wood. I went on to experiment on some one piece blanks and got to the "epoxy the blank to the tube" While spinning, in sanding mode, I noticed a bit of gumminess on the outside of the blank. Almost like the epoxy being forced by centrifugal force through the grain. I don't think this is what was happening. Is it possible that there was sap in the wood being thrown out? Also, I failed to mention that I had stabelized with Cactus Juice. I DNA cleaned and proceeded to finish this blank with ca. I am now getting, in various areas, dull spots in the finish. AAArrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!! I've not run into this before. Any ideas?????
 
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I had a guy come to me to help him either cast or stabilize some Cypress from the "Senator Tree" down in FL.

I could NOT get it to work. Alumilite wouldn't stick (after soaking in DNA) and trying to stabilize didn't do anything.

I think it has something to do with the natural oils in the wood. He nor I could get a CA finish to come out without hazing or cracking. I tried drying the wood in my toaster oven overnight at 200 degrees....everything I could think of.
 
Brooks803 said:
I had a guy come to me to help him either cast or stabilize some Cypress from the "Senator Tree" down in FL.

I could NOT get it to work. Alumilite wouldn't stick (after soaking in DNA) and trying to stabilize didn't do anything.

I think it has something to do with the natural oils in the wood. He nor I could get a CA finish to come out without hazing or cracking. I tried drying the wood in my toaster oven overnight at 200 degrees....everything I could think of.
Click to expand...

Cypress is difficult to stabilize for the same reason Redwood and Pine is difficult to stabilize...they are all softwoods by definition. Softwood has totally different cellular structure and this makes them more difficult to get the resin in. An extra long soak time after vac is best for softwoods.

I have done cypress knees from a swamp and was able to double the weight of the wood with none of the issues mentioned here. This was on knife blocks too.
 
Curtis: I stabelized these some time back so don't remember, definitely, the age of the juice, but I'm thinking I stabelized them soon after the purchase. Now, what is the shelf life, and if I exceed that and it dries "rubbery" is there any recourse of action that would salvage my stock and efforts?



MesquiteMan said:
Brooks803 said:
I had a guy come to me to help him either cast or stabilize some Cypress from the "Senator Tree" down in FL.

I could NOT get it to work. Alumilite wouldn't stick (after soaking in DNA) and trying to stabilize didn't do anything.

I think it has something to do with the natural oils in the wood. He nor I could get a CA finish to come out without hazing or cracking. I tried drying the wood in my toaster oven overnight at 200 degrees....everything I could think of.
Click to expand...

Cypress is difficult to stabilize for the same reason Redwood and Pine is difficult to stabilize...they are all softwoods by definition. Softwood has totally different cellular structure and this makes them more difficult to get the resin in. An extra long soak time after vac is best for softwoods.

I have done cypress knees from a swamp and was able to double the weight of the wood with none of the issues mentioned here. This was on knife blocks too.
Click to expand...
 
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