Spray Deft - Spinning or Not ?

[Fearless]

Hi all.
First off. Happy 4th of July!
Now. I have been playing with Deft for my finish and have been putting it on with the Viva paper towel method but am getting some pretty good rings that I have to sand out. So, I picked up a spray can of Deft to try to see if I can get it to go on smoother.
I used the search feature and see that several are spraying a finish on but not very many have stated if they are spraying with the lathe turning or not.
So, those of you that spray, if you would be so kind and indicate how you are doing this then I would be forever grateful.
I have been using Wayne's method except I haven't broken down and ordered the Enduro yet and have plenty of Deft on hand. Just not really pleased with the finish.
Thanks all and have a terrific although safe weekend.

 

[pastorbill1952]

I spray w/lathe on but you have to do very light coats. Most of the time it required several coats. I am now going to the wipe on poly & am really liking the results. I will post soonas I reset my camera equipment.

 

[ctEaglesc]

With the regular Deft and the towel, are you putting it on straight?
Are you cutting it with anything?
Are you "heating" it in?

 

[DCBluesman]

Scott...sounds to me like you need a sanding sealer coat. You can do it with the Deft spray, but it is sub-optimal. If you want some suggestions on sanding sealers, by all means email or write back here. As for spraying with the lathe on or off, when I use a spray lacquer I remove the barrels from the lathe and mount them on a scrap dowel. Then I take a cardoard box outside, hold the dowel with the barrels inside the box and <u>mist</u> the barrels while I slowly hand turn the barrels. (Think of it as a poor man's paint spray room) It takes several passes, but with spray lacquer thinner coats are better than thicker (Ask MDWine! []). You should be able to put several coats on per day, but you want to let your lacquer cure at least overnight ever2-3 coats and for several days after your final coat (before buffing).

 

[JimGo]

I will attest to the curing issue! I did a cedar pen a few weeks ago, and FINALLY got to address the fine rings and undulations I saw in the finish. I took it out to my el-cheapo HF buffing wheels ($4-5 for two wheels, some red "tripoli" compound and some white compund), and MAN those wheels make the pen look nice. I had actually kind of given up on Deft until I saw how easily it polished. I had tried to sand out some marks in another piece on which I had worked (my cedar business card holder), but had an aweful time of it, and I think the problem was that I hadn't let it cure long enough. Can't wait to try buffing that thing soon!

 

[PenWorks]

I just did my first ones with Deft. Used a sanding sealer, let it dry overnight, sand and then sprayed 4 light coats of Deft while off the lathe. I was more than please with the results.

 

[GregD]

I spray mine off the lathe. Mostly because I know me. I would end up getting it on everything except the pen barrel.

 

[Old Griz]

I always apply spray lacquer on the lathe... at the lowest speed. Just hold a piece of cardboard behind the blank when spraying so it does not get all over everything...
I usually apply 2 coats of lacquer sanding sealer, allow to dry and then sand from 4000-12000MM dry very lightly to get a nice gloss. After the sealer I apply 4-6 coats of lacquer and then allow to cure for 5-7 days before using automotive polishing compound followed by automotive antiswirl (McQuire's {sp} #9) cream to get a high gloss.

 

[Czarcastic]

I don't like to use spray finishes near my lathe because the overspray - no matter how careful I am - goes everywhere.
I built a little finishing "Turntable" for my small projects. It has a base with about 30 1/8" dowels that hold the workpiece up, and spins a full 360 degrees so I can get even coverage. I drilled two 1/4" holes near the center and when I spray Lacquer on pens, I use 1/4" threaded rods that hold the pens upright and have no "contact" with any surface (and no overspray near my lathe).
The tape (picture below) keeps the tubes elevated.

<br />
-HTH

 

[DCBluesman]

Tres cool, Stephen. Thanks for sharing this![8D]

 

[Rifleman1776]

Spraying finishes has always been a disaster for me. It is like spraying sand onto a sticky surface. But Grizz may be the champion of fine finishes here and he sprays, go figger.

 

[Fearless]

Hi all. Sorry to be so late getting back but I wouldn't want to miss any of the many bar-b-ques that happen on this weekend.[8D]

Here's a link to a previous posting on how I have been going about this.I thought maybe the buff would pull the rings out but it's still not just right.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4887

Eagle.
I have applied straight as well as a 50 50 mixture with laquer thinner pretty much with the same results and no I am not heating it in but just trying to apply as smoothly and lightly as I can.

Lou.
As you can see in the link I am using a SS (minwax) 3 or 4 coats. Finish looks good after sanding through the MM at this point so that is how I know my problem is coming from the Deft.
It may be that I am just trying to build too fast.

Jim.
Most pens usually sit for at least a week due to my screwy work schedule.

Anthony.
I am going to try some of these suggestion and hopefully it will come out to where I am finally pleased with it.[]

Greg.
I was wondering about getting it everywhere but where I wanted it.[]

Griz.
What are you using as an auto polishing compound? I have some of the Meguiars(mine is #7) and would like to try this once I can get rid of the rings.I have had pretty good results on some flat work with wet sanding the laquer to very high grits and then using the Meguires(#7) Ends up just like a piano finish.[8D][8D]

Stephen.
Very nice, May have to borrow that one.

Rifle.
I have sprayed a lot of laquer on flat stuff with my HVLP and usually have pretty good results.

Thanks all HTH and Happy 4th

 

[Old Griz]

Scott, the automotive polishing compound is an old plastic tub I think is Dupont (can't read the label anymore, just plain old white automotive polishing compound... I thin out a bit to a watery slurry and apply with a damp tshirt.. I move it lightly and slowly back and forth keeping it damp with a little spray of water now and again... then I remove the excess with a wet cloth and dry with the lathe off using a paper towel... that alone should give a real nice gloss finish... but the Mequires #7 or 9 will really bring out a glass like finish...
I find that by spraying I don't get the rings you are talking about... I just hold a piece of cardboard behind the blank and spray once back and forth from about 6-8" away... let dry for about 10 minutes and repeat.. do that for about 5-6 coats for a nice deep finish... keep the lathe at it's slowest speed the whole time... then when the last coat is dry.. take off the lathe and let cure for at least 5-7 days depending on temp and humidity.. longer is better... then go for the polishing compound and Mequires.
Basically the technique is similar to wetsanding flat work... I do the same think on some of my scroll work... if I have ripples I will wet sand to 800 grit, then to the polishing compound... don't do the Mequires on flat work... You can try the wet sanding technique on the pens also..
<b>BUT MAKE SURE YOU USE A REAL LIGHT TOUCH OR YOU WILL GO THROUGH THE LACQUER.</b>

 

[MDWine]

Yep, the <b>cure </b>it the thing... I have had to develop <b>PATIENCE</b>, something I didn't (don't) have much of...

The longer you can let it cure before going for the final "shine", the better. When done properly, the finish looks like 1/2" deep glass... I really like it.

I did get the Enduro starter kit, and will tinker with that in the future. Right now, though, for "finishes that really count", it's Deft for me. I haven't tried the spinning technique, but I will. I hang my blanks on a wire, and turn it around by hand while "misting" it with the lacquer. (The newspaper background I use is permanently preserved, and waterproof!![])

I like the idea of a turn-table and a "paint box", so I'll be developing those too! One thing I am going to work with, however, is a way to prevent spraying inside the tubes! (It is killer on a Flat Top American!)

 

[DCBluesman]

Originally posted by MDWine
<br />One thing I am going to work with, however, is a way to prevent spraying inside the tubes! (It is killer on a Flat Top American!)

Seal the ends with a plug of wax, baseplate wax (from Arizona Silhouette), or potato. Push it through with the barrel trimmer when the lacquer cures and do a 360-degree twist to remove any excess accumulation from the end of the blank. [8D]

 

[Czarcastic]

Originally posted by MDWine
One thing I am going to work with, however, is a way to prevent spraying inside the tubes! (It is killer on a Flat Top American!)

If you use the threaded 1/4" rods on the turntable, the tubes are basically plugged (for 7mm tubes). I just use some electric tape on the rods to get the thickness I need for the larger tubes.

 

[Ryan]

Fearless,

I always used the Gloss spray Deft and it worked well. When that can ran out I tried the semi-gloss I had on the shelf and that lasted for about 1/2 a pen[}] and I tossed that can. Now I was left with the gal of gloss Deft on the shelf. I thought it was time to figure out how not to get the rings. Here is what I did and with some practice it worked great.

1. I use blue paper shop towels. Viva sounds like it works also. I fold mine in half and then lengthwise until it is about 1 inch wide.

2. THIN the deft 3 to 1. 50/50 would work but will take some time to build the coats. The mfg suggests 10-15% when spraying. I did not think this was enough for wiping.

3. I apply a coat of sanding sealer, let it dry and MM from the first grit to the last grit.

4. Take your folded paper towel and dip the end in the 3/1 mix.

5. Turn you lathe by hand. I use my finger on the spindle wheel to slowly turn the blanks.

6. Just barley touch the blank with enough pressure to wet the blank. Move the paper towel across the first blank. Re-dip the paper towel and repeat for the second blank.

7. Do not let your paper towel get too dry. This is when I see the most rings. Remember nice even pressure.

8. Continue turning the blanks until the laq. has "Floated Out". This occurs when all the solvent has flashed off and the blank no longer looks "Wet". I then let it sit for a few hours before I recoat.

I know that this sounds easy and just like what everyone else does, but I have found the Key is to match the rate at which you move the paper towel to the speed you are turning the blanks and with a very light touch. As others have said be patient and let it dry. Do not try to buff before a min. of 3 days! You will be rewarded if you do.

I buff with TSW and then 2 coats of Ren Wax.

I hope this helps.

Ryan

 

[Fangar]

Some good pointers and variations here. I am working on a 300 win mag casing pen right now with an aluminum top barrel. I used the spray deft as a sealant. So far it looks awesome. I am waiting on an order of extra long tubes to finish up the casing end that I have on its way. I will let you guys know how it goes.

James

 

[nilsatcraft]

I always spray on the lathe. I don't turn the lathe on while spraying, though- I turn the handwheel slowly and I spray the length of the pen, then hit the next section and so on until the whole pen is evenly coated. I then spin the mandrel by hand for 3-5 minutes and let it sit for a while. I've learned from the posts above that I really need to get a buffing system (I keep putting it off...) and I need to give the lacquer more than just a half hour to cure []. I can only get better, right?

 

[Fearless]

Thanks all!!
This turned into a nice little conversation. Hopefully some good info for all.

Lou, I sent you e mail.
Thanks again everyone.