Splitting Pen Blanks

[BKind2Anmls]

I am trying to make several of the Berea Hardwoods jar openers as Christmas presents. There are no tubes or parallel holes that need to be drilled through the blanks so I am basically turning a spindle using a pen blank.

I am trying to use the centers shown below.

I punch a little hole in the live center end of the blank and I push the prongs into the drive center end. But when I try to turn the blank round, it keeps stopping when I touch the gouge to the wood like the blank is not being held tightly enough. However, when I tighten up the tail stock the live center pushes a large hole into the end and splits the wood.

I can't seem to find a balance between tight enough to turn but not tight enough to split.

Am I using the wrong centers or doing something else wrong?

 

[jttheclockman]

Wrong live center. I suggest you get a cup live center for the tailstock end. There are various kinds but here is one. Make sure you get the right MT

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTLT1X.html

 

[BKind2Anmls]

Thanks. I have one of those but I haven't used it since I got the 60 degree center for turning pens. I will give it a try.

 

[Jack Parker]

Susan, I don't know what you are using to mark your center point on the ends, but if you are using a spring punch, you might want to skip that and just use a scratch awl instead. Sometimes a spring punch can set up a split that the pressure of the tailstock can expand.

 

[magpens]

Strange as it may seem, it might be advantageous to drill a short pilot hole in each end.

 

[jttheclockman]

What I would do is use an awl to make the point but work the awl around so that the point of either the dead or live center fits snugly in and the teeth of the dead center touch and or the cup of the live center touch. This way you are not using either or as a wedge which is causing your blanks to split. You are securing into end grain and that is woods weakest points.

 

[BKind2Anmls]

I was using a spring punch and didn't think about it causing deep cracks. Thanks for the thought. I will use an awl as others have recommended, or a small drill bit.

That is also a good thought to make sure the end is resting on the cup and not being supported by just the point. I've got 20 to crank out before Christmas so I hope I can solve this problem.

 

[Skie_M]

Strange as it may seem, it might be advantageous to drill a short pilot hole in each end.

This is what I do ... the cup center idea on top of this might be the best idea to remove most of the possibility of spitting your stock.


Turn at high speeds, use very sharp tools, light passes... should work out just fine.

Oh, and wear a full face shield!

 

[1080Wayne]

A drop of thin CA in the hole will harden soft woods and reduce the likelihood of splitting .

 

[mike4066]

Leave about 1/2 inch unturned until the very end, then back off the tail stock a hair and go very lightly.

Also try cutting a X from corner to corner so that the spur drive sits in the groves instead of using tail stock to drive it into the piece.