Spectra

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btboone

btboone

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2005111305244_spectramok.jpg



Here's an updated version of my mokume pen. This one can work either with a base or with a cap. The main things that needed changing from my first version was that the cap lines didn't flow with the body when it was on, and the taper fit of the cap without threads wasn't bulletproof. It could get knocked loose in a pocket. This one has some threads (although not much!) that hold the cap. I experimented with lots of different threads including some with 30 leads! I settled on a 4 lead thread. The dimensions of the threads were dictated by the fact that I always have a 1/2" carbide drill in the lathe for my rings, so I wanted to use that. I made the inside of the cap (or base) threads to that dimension and made them to a height that "looked right." Because I'm making both parts, they didn't have to match anything else. They have an OD of .541" and a lead of .104". You won't find that at the hardware store. :D I used the same drills and threads that Spyra has to connect the barrel to the back body. The nib is the small gold one from Anthony with the same brass nut setup as Spyra has. I made a lathe program and a milling fixture to make those today.

My intension was to get a pen that was much simpler to make than Spyra so the cost could come down. The mokume is an upgrade to the base pen, which has grooves with a fade of anodized colors. It will be less than half the cost of Spyra. I'm finishing that one up this weekend. A certain magazine has asked to take pictures of my penS, so I figured I better get it in high gear to have some penS to show them. The twisting fountain pen needs more development, so that was out of the running for now.
 
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2005111311036_spectrawithbase.jpg


Here's a picture of it closed. I made the threads so that they only need a quarter turn to release it. This pen will take two hands to open it, so I didn't bother weighting the base. I'll probably make a laser engraved wood veneer plate to stick on the base, so it both has the name and won't scratch a desk top.
 
One would just let me know and it could certainly be arranged. [:D] I'll probably offer an option of white gold/ silver mokume or the yellow gold/ silver shown. I blackened the silver in this case but would leave it natural in the case of the white gold mokume. The whole thing will be offered in polished or brushed finish. Polished looks nice for pictures once you remove all the fingerprints, but brushed might be a more practical finish for every day use.
 
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Here's a picture of the main parts. The clip on this one is similar to the one I used before, except that this one is longer and more narrow, so should flex more than the last one. The clip is titanium and will have an anodized fade. The grooves will have a fade of a light blue through a dark blue in them. They are spaced in a mathematical function. The shape of the pen itself is derived from an airfoil shape, which has a 5th order polynomial. I used to build bikes with airfoil shaped bodies, so I made some programs that draw them in CAD. Just the usual stuff.
 
Does it also have a standard cap? I think a pen like that would be great with the desk top mount and a cap so you could take it out and show it off. If I had that pen I would show it off to everyone!!
 
Hi Shane, yes, the cap and base are interchangeable. That's the cap in the picture above with the bar that it was machined from still attached. It can be made with or without the grooves. I'm not yet sure whether to sell it with one or the other, or to offer the option of both. I'll be finishing up on the capped version tomorrow, so I'll take pics of that.
 
Thanks guys. Greg, the inlay is mokume gane, which is a mixture of 22K gold and sterling silver. In Japanese, it means wood grain metal. It is formed by stacking thin layers of the alternating metals and squeezing them together and cooking them in a kiln at just under the melting temterature. This causes the metals to flow together into a solid sandwich of alternating layers. When cool, the artist cuts through the layers in random lines with an abrasive tool. This exposes the different layers just as the different layers of rock are exposed at the grand canyon. The metal is then rolled flat so those layers become concentric designs of the different metals. Fortunately, I am able to buy the material ready made by a mokume gane artist. I get it in sheet form and slit it to width. It gets hammered into an undercut groove. This is pretty tricky on a pen because there isn't the same support that a mandrel in a ring has. It all gets ground to flush and finished like usual. I blacken the silver with Liver of Sulphur. The material is pretty expensive though. A square of it 3 x 3" costs around $1700. Right now, I'm thinking the mokume option will add around $200 over the base pen price of $795. It's a lot of extra work, so I need to be careful because I imagine most pens would be sold through dealers at less than that.

Without seeing the final anodized version yet, I'd like to get people's opinion on the pricing. Is $795 fair, and should that include both the cap and the base? It's a bit below the simpler ones from Tighe and is pretty consistant with the amount of work and material it takes. I need a price point that will definitely get them into the hands of collectors. This will open the door to selling the more high end Spyra. I also need to consider if the $20 jewelry box I was thinking of using for Spyra would be the same one I use with this one. It might be good to be consistant there.
 
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Here's a picture of the capped and anodized Spectra. This would be the normal version of the pen. I think I will take Shane's cue and offer the pen with both the cap and the desk base as standard equipment. It has a fairly clean look. The grooves help the grip on the barrel section.

I moved all the grooves from the prototype to a point where the joint between the cap and back are located in a groove. It looks a lot better that way. I'm pretty pleased with the way it turned out.
 
Originally posted by btboone
<br />Serge, Yes! I could certainly use an apprentice. Sounds like the commute might be a bit harsh though. [8D]
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Thank you very much Bruce for the offer, I take it ! but before I buy the plane ticket for the States could you send me the pen like that I can polished it for you ? [:D]
 
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Here's a picture of it in the base. Now that the grooves line up, the look is so much cleaner.

Please let me know your thoughts on the mokume versus the anodized versions.
 
Bruce both pens are stunning but I would prefer the mokume first only the cap doesn't apeal to me ( to big for the design of the pen IMHO )would say that the cap of the 2nd pen will go to it if you add 2 rings of mokume, 1 at the junction of meeting point and 1 just after the clip
 
Hi Serge, I looked at shortening the cap, but it would take shortening the barrel or retracting the nib more into the body. Either way, the grip seemed to be compromised. It just feels too short, and your hand needs to hold the larger diameter back barrel that way. The cap is as short as the shape allows. You need 3 dimensional clearance around the nib because it's offset from center and flares out wide. I looked at rounding the end more, but it just didn't seem to flow as much for me. With the way the mokume inlay works, although it would look better, I wouldn't be able to have just one end of it supported to have it at the junction. I also don't have the thickness needed to put some on the lower end of the cap. I agree that they look a bit low down on the body. I have the option of putting one stripe about 3/8" or so above the intersection line on the cap, but getting closer runs into the internal threads. I was also worried about hammering on such a thin section. It might get bent out of shape. I'll look at the drawings again and see if anything is possible there. Good observations. I appreciate the feedback.
 
It's just great the way it is. Those guys that want to buy a gun, rob a bank, and buy a pen should call you. I bet you could make them a gun that is better than any you could buy! Your pens are awesome.
 
Thanks Chris, I appreciate your feedback.

Please, others who haven't commented, let me know what you think, good, bad, or indifferent.
 
Awesome Bruce. I wish I had your expensive "toys" :)

How do you join the ends of the inlay? Solder? I assume the pattern has a mis-match at the joint but is not too visible due to the random pattern.
 
Hi Guys. I did do a cap for the mokume version, but just left it all polished. The cap portion is very thin, so I don't know if I can get by with inlaying there. I'd need to try it. The inlay is done cold, and without solder. There will be a seam at the start point, but if I've done it right, there will be no gap in the metal. It all flows together and is invisible when finished out.
 
The polished certainly looks nice for the pictures, but gets fingerprinted up very quickly. It sure is a lot of work to get to that kind of polish too. I use micromesh to get machining marks out and go up to around 8000 grit before ever touching a polishing wheel. This keeps the fine pits caused from the polishing wheel away.
 
Bruce, I am still not sure about which one would be best. For a more detailed opinion please send both pens to Shane Maxwell, 3529 Cedar Post Road, Winston-Salem, NC 27127[:D]

In reality I like the mokume better. There are a few too many ring for me on the other one. The mokume version is a little more understated. I like it.
 
Thanks guys. [:)] Shane, in your opinion, does the anodizing or the rings make the standard version look busy to you? I can do it without the anodizing, where it all is just brushed. Is that different or better?
 
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