Spectra-Play

[Alan Morrison]

The most generous @mark james sent me a box of segmenting materials recently including enough Spectraply for me to play around with.
This is some of what I was experimenting with, though I found that, because there is a lot of 'end grain', it is even worse to turn than Palm.
Liberal application of CA required. Using the flap disc method was a wee bit better.
Anyway, my wife likes the progress, though I'm not so sure.....I think that they are a bit OTT. I think that they need to be carefully placed in a pen, maybe in an oval window type.
The completed blanks are not accurate and won't be turned.
ALL comments will be valued.
Thanks for looking.

 

[RichAldrich]

Looks challenging Alan! I did a vortex bowl! Lots of tear!

 

[Darios]

Kudos on getting the alignments that you did.

 

[Woodchipper]

My complements on the glued parts.

 

[mark james]

G'Day Alan. I love the design concepts, and I also agree with the desire to avoid end grain being the face image for the pattern. I always tried to use side grain if at all possible, but the starting material dimensions often dictated if that was possible. And I suspect spectraply would be very 'chippy' when turning end grain.

Non the less, well done. Cheers.

 

[jttheclockman]

Always like what you are doing when it comes to the segmenting and experimenting. I have a question for you. Have you ever thought of doing some of these designs using acrylics? You can do in sheet form and build to your desire. You have an idea of what final product should look like. The reason I ask this is because it will do a couple things. Always be accurate in dimensions and sometimes tough with woods, and also no chip out at all. You can buy acrylics in many different sizes. Many vendors out there too. Lots of colors to choose from. Just a thought. The down side is finding a good adhesive that allows enough open time but also sticks well.

 

[Alan Morrison]

Looks challenging Alan! I did a vortex bowl! Lots of tear!

G'Day Alan. I love the design concepts, and I also agree with the desire to avoid end grain being the face image for the pattern. I always tried to use side grain if at all possible, but the starting material dimensions often dictated if that was possible. And I suspect spectraply would be very 'chippy' when turning end grain.

I do generally try for the segments to be side grain, however, with this being my first experimenting with Spectraply I didnt fully realise the resulting 'needles'.
It was a case of ....'I've started so I'll finish'....seeing as I had cut lengthwise. I'm not sure just how easy it would be to duplicate the pattern using side grain, but will give it a go sometime.
Thanks for your comments.
Alan

 

[Alan Morrison]

Always like what you are doing when it comes to the segmenting and experimenting. I have a question for you. Have you ever thought of doing some of these designs using acrylics? You can do in sheet form and build to your desire. You have an idea of what final product should look like. The reason I ask this is because it will do a couple things. Always be accurate in dimensions and sometimes tough with woods, and also no chip out at all. You can buy acrylics in many different sizes. Many vendors out there too. Lots of colors to choose from. Just a thought. The down side is finding a good adhesive that allows enough open time but also sticks well.

Thanks John. I am giving your comments due thought.
I have to say, firstly, that I have a mental block about acrylic....the only acrylic I have ever incorporated into my wooden pens would be narrow pieces as ends or an accent between 2 timbers and not that often. I never like turning the stuff!!!
Maybe I need to do a re-think on my bias.
That said, I understand what you are saying.....no chip out.....which would be a major bonus as that would be my biggest problem cutting small triangles.....and accuracy.
One problem when glueing segments is clamping odd shaped pieces, meaning using CA which is far from ideal, as you know.

The only acrylic that I have would be all pen blank sizes.
Do you mean that it is available in different dimensions?
You mentioned 'sheet form'. Does that mean that it comes in different thicknesses in sheets?
Alan

 

[jttheclockman]

Thanks John. I am giving your comments due thought.
I have to say, firstly, that I have a mental block about acrylic....the only acrylic I have ever incorporated into my wooden pens would be narrow pieces as ends or an accent between 2 timbers and not that often. I never like turning the stuff!!!
Maybe I need to do a re-think on my bias.
That said, I understand what you are saying.....no chip out.....which would be a major bonus as that would be my biggest problem cutting small triangles.....and accuracy.
One problem when glueing segments is clamping odd shaped pieces, meaning using CA which is far from ideal, as you know.

The only acrylic that I have would be all pen blank sizes.
Do you mean that it is available in different dimensions?
You mentioned 'sheet form'. Does that mean that it comes in different thicknesses in sheets?
Alan

Yes Alan acrylic comes in different thickness sheets. You also have the thin pieces that many pool cue makers use. Price wise the acrylic is probably more expensive but if bought in sheet form it could average out. For thin sheets I like to buy from Atlas Billiards. Just bought a few odd colors the other day. Not sure how I am going to use yet. These are just thoughts. Keep up the good work.

 

[Alan Morrison]

Thanks John. I will look up what acrylic sheets are available over here.
Maybe they will become another string to my bow!!!