Speaking of Tools

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jttheclockman

jttheclockman

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Just was curious what tool does everyone use most often to turn the great looking pens I see here???. Do you use a different tool for acrylics as to wood??? Did you make your own tool or did you put a different grind on the tool than what is somewhat normal??? Maybe you can give us a reason why you chose that tool. Great for beginners like myself to learn what the masters are using and why. Thanks for the replys.
 
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I start with an old Sorby 3/4" roughing gouge until I get the 'shape.' Then I have a 5/8" and 1-3/8" lacer skews. For the most part I use them interchangeably. I like the Lacers, but it's quite possible to grind the same tool out of steel stock and put it in a handle for about half the cost.

Marc
 
the tool that i use the most for pens is an ancient, old, old, buck bros., carbon steel, continental grind 3/4" spindle gouge. when i started i actually thought it was a roughing gouge. i keep it sharp and use it on wood and plastics.
 
I get them to rough shape with a 3/4" Spindle Roughing Gouge then do fine shape with a 3/4" oval Skew. I have the big mongo Lacer skew, but I find it a bit too huge to use on pens.
 
holmqer said:
I have the big mongo Lacer skew, but I find it a bit too huge to use on pens.
Click to expand...

I have to admit it does look silly in use. But I used pens as training for using my skews so I'm used to handling it. As long as I'm cutting straight, that is. Anything fancy and I grab the little one.

Marc
 
5/8" Lacer Skew

A looooong ways to go before I'm out of apprentice stage, but I have one tool, and it works awesome - my 5/8" Lacer Skew with the radiused cutting edge profile. I bought the version in 2030 Stainless steel because it holds an edge 3x longer (so the marketing hype says...). Why not buy one tool that will last for years that you can learn to use to do it all?!

The skew also can produce a very smooth finish on it's own. I've been starting my sanding with 400 because the skew results enable it.

I suggest the Lacer Video "The Skew Chisel - The Dark Side and the Sweet Side". Once you see how it works, it's a dream to use. And amazingly versatile.

The Lacer Skews have a flat edge on the top side (long point), and a rounded edge on the bottom side. This design provides for a very efficient contact surface for normal work because the rounded bottom side has a very small contact with the tool rest. It is very easy to get a consistent pass across the blank surface. The skew, combined with a 6" Comfort Tool Rest that has the stainless steel bead at the top, makes for very consistent contact.

You should search on Lacer Skew, as there have been some very informative posts in the last 6 months.
 
No master here, I'm a beginner, too. I still haven't learned to skew!

I start with a roughing gouge, and more often than not I forget to change
to anything else. I keep them sharpened, I can even get a shear cut with the
edge of the flute.

Sometimes I'll rough out a bunch of blanks ahead of time, so if I pick up some blanks
that are already round, I might use my second favorite tool,
which might be called a diamond scraper, might be called a dovetail cutter,
dovetail scraper or spear scraper .. I have no idea.
Picture a flat scraper, put a bevel on it, then grind off the two edges at
45 degrees each so they form a 90 degree in the middle.

I can use that 90 degree edge to come in from the side of the blank .. on
hard woods, Tru-Stone .. even aluminum. I use it just like a left hand cutter
on a metal lathe.. one straight shot down the whole blank. Works
great, and if you ride the bevel just right it leaves a fairly smooth finish.

I'm sure that the real turners here are cringing when they read this.. but
hey.. it was only a week ago that I first saw someone use a lathe in person.
 
Continental gouge and a small skew. I switch between both normally on most blanks.
I do like the feel and control I get with the gouge.
regards, Bill
 
I use my cheap Harbor Freight roughing gouge most the time. For details, I grab the closest tool that looks like it will work. A skew is a good thing. Whatever you use sharp is a very good thing.
 
Also being very new to turning, I wanted to use tools that I could "master" without tearing up a lot of blanks. I use a 3/4 roughing gouge to get the blanks close to the shape and size that I want. I then switch to a 1/2 inch Spindle Master to get it ready to where I can sand it. The Spindle Master is not only super easy to use, it's even easier to sharpen. It gives a fairly smooth finish though not quite as smooth as a regualr skew in the hands of an experienced turner. I am started to use a regular skew once in a while, but everytime it digs in to take a chunk out of a blank, I switch back to my Spindle Master. I guess I'll get there eventually, but for now I'm sticking with what works best for me.

Jim Smith
 
BruceA said:
I have one tool, and it works awesome - my 5/8" Lacer Skew with the radiused cutting edge profile.
Click to expand...

I'm jealous, the 2030's weren't being made when I bought mine. Since folks tend to blanch at the price of the Lacer chisels I'd like to point out that there is nothing magical about the branding. You can grind out a chisel in that style out of whatever 5/16's bar stock you can lay your hands on. Takes a bit of work, but between grinding your own and turning your own handle you can cut the price of the chisel down to a bearable range. That's the way Lacer does it, so it's good enough for the rest of us.

Marc
 
For the most part, I use a 1" skew from start to finish, except on the antlers, I use a spindle gouge to shape to round, then back to the skew. Sometimes, I'll use a 1/2" round nose scrape to go from square to round, then back to the skew.
 
I've used for the past 2 years a set of 9 lathe tools from Harbor Freight and they have worked great and hold an edge just fine. When I do need to sharpen, mostly after (or during) turning tru-stone, I find the slow-speed wet grinder from Harbor Freight to work wonderfully. You get both the lathe set and the wet grinder for under $100 (~$50 each). On the wet grinder, though, it has a bit of a design flaw that requires you to stick something in-between the motor and outer shell of the tool because the motor is designed to turn the grinding wheel via a little bar, but there is some play where the motor engages the grinding wheel bar so it needs some pressure to stay on that little bar. Anyway, sounds complicated but all I did was shove an old plastic measuring cup (I think it's a 1/4 cup) in between it and it works just the same as the $200 slow-speed wet grinder from Woodcraft and has similar tool mounts to hold your tools, though I don't use them, no real need as it can be done by hand. You can do most everything you'll need with those two but you will need to pick up a 1/16th inch parting tool to turn tenons - the 1/4" that comes with the HF set is too big.

Jason


Of course, there will be some folks that will swear the HF tools are no good "cheap tools" but the fact is they are HSS from China, just as the $80 (each) tools from Woodcraft. The only difference you'll find are the handles. And yes, I've used both.
 
Fingernail gouge by Sorby. It is the first turning tool I ever bought and what I learned with. I also have various scrapers and a Lacer skew but I always seem to screw up with everying but the Fingernail gouge.
 
I use a 3/4 inch spindle gouge to rough (recently changing to the Skogger) then I will use either a 3/4 or 1/2 inch spindle gouge with a fingernail grind to shape. I can use a skew but usually do not unless I have a shape that creates tight spots or something like that. a 1/16th inch parting tool is about the only other tool I really use regularly for pens.
 
Me too! The fingernail gouge is especially great for gently rolling down the stock at the bushings. I've been unable to get good results at that with any other tool.


Daniel said:
I use a 3/4 inch spindle gouge to rough (recently changing to the Skogger) then I will use either a 3/4 or 1/2 inch spindle gouge with a fingernail grind to shape. I can use a skew but usually do not unless I have a shape that creates tight spots or something like that. a 1/16th inch parting tool is about the only other tool I really use regularly for pens.
Click to expand...
 
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