Speaking of saw blades and such Band Saw 14"

[PTsideshow]

I am working on tuning and adjusting my 4 speed 14" import band saw (an old reliant from Trend lines)that is replacing the hobby sized 9 incher that went boom!. Looking online, hasn't did any good other than given me anything other the the formula for the speed of the blade travel. Even looking in my wood working books. I haven't found anything that suggest what the speed (RPM) will work best for sawing assorted wood for blanks, and resawing logs for blanks.
It is a 4 speed
170.5RPM--625 ft/min
289.5 ----- 1061.3
459.2------ 1683.2
703.5------ 2578.4
I have a new Olson resaw and Timberwolf that I put on the saw. Neither of the packages give a clue. Nor do their websites have any useful information considering they speeds they are talking about are all above the fastest speed of the my saw.

About the only thing I can figure is, that it sounds like the faster the better!
Does anybody have anything to add. Since I have only used this saw for none measured cutting. Chopping pieces to approximate sizes. None of these fine points were ever a consideration!
:clown:

 

[ctubbs]

The way I judge my saw speed, as long as the motor is not lugging, slowing down, very much as I feed the wood, then the speed is good. The faster you run the blade, the less torque (wrong word, I know. Mind went blank) your blade has for cutting. Set your speed on the fastest speed you have and run a test. If the motor bogs down, go to the next lower speed until you and the saw come to a happy medium. Each saw/blade/operator combo will be different. Best of luck.
Charles

 

[Wildman]

Those speeds you list are no load speeds so your rate of feed, TPI, Tooth form, also important. I have never changed speeds on my bandsaw, did check to ensure belt was on right pulley called for in owners manual. Use fastest speed for cutting all wood on my G0555. Big secret for re-sawing is thicker the wood less TPI you need. Rpm's can be moderate or fast but feed rate should be slow.

Normally domestic dry wood will cut easier than wet wood. Dense or exotic woods can be hard on your blade too!

Mark Duginske has a chart in his book that addresses Type of cut, Teeth, width, form, blade speed, feed rate. As well as types of material. Might check your library for copy of Bandsaw Handbook

 

[leestoresund]

Just went thru refurbing my Jet 14" because the motor lost its smoke.
So I put in a 5 HP motor, it will never lug down.

Jet recommends 3000SFPM.

A 14" BS really can not handle a blade wider than 1/2". If you want to resaw then you can use 4 TPI for wood up to 6" and 3 TPI for wood 6-10".

For general cutting 6TPI is generally used.

If you send me your private email I will forward a copy of Michael Fortunes article from an old FWW that tells you all you really need to know.

Lee

 

[hilltopper46]

FWIW, I have one of those import 14-inch bandsaws, and in high speed the 1/2-horsepower motor bogs down in anything over an inch or two thick. I put it in the second fastest speed and it will cut up to the throat capacity in most situations.

 

[PenMan1]

Charles is right. Forget "the 4 speed setting stuff". Set you saw to its fastest speed and fit it with a 1/2 variable tooth blade. Tune the blade tension with a guitar tune($9 at any music store , or a free app with most smart phones). The blade tension should correspond to "a sharp - B on the tuner.

If RPMs is important to you (it really SHOULDN'T Be) for $15 - $20, you can buy an inductive Tachometer on EBay that will tell you with complete accuracy how fast your blade is running. You can also move it over to your lathe by replacing 1 piece of double stick tape.

Trying to "tune" a bandsaw by using RPMs is a HUGE mistake. In the redneck vernacular "the is no replacement of displacement". Your goal should be to move the blade as fast and smoothly as possible with the maximum torque that will not snap the cast housing. The goal is to make the saw cut smoothly and accurately, regardless of wood, thickness, "pitchyness", etc.

Trying to tune a bandsaw to "rpms" is like trying to tune a drag race car with rpms. With "racing slicks" with 19 psi in hot asphalt a nitro drag car may turn 9,000rpms. Unfortunately, in those circumstances, those RPMs would cause so much "slip" that the dragster wouldn't go fast enough to qualify.

The same is true with bandsaws. Like the car that wins all of the drag races, set your saw up to preform optimally for the conditions it will face 90 percent of the time.