Spar varnish?

[Gary Beasley]

Has anyone used spar varnish to finish a blank? Experiences and issues?

 

[mark james]

Has anyone used spar varnish to finish a blank? Experiences and issues?

I have used Spar Varnish on numerous pens with many small segments. I used a slow turning mandrel (30 RPM) to keep the finish 'even' under a heat lamp for 20-45 minutes/per blank/repeated 3-4 times for application. I have also used it as a finish on cheese cutters that would be washed, then promptly dried as best as possible after usage. The ones still in my possession after several years usage/careful care are doing just fine.

 

[dogcatcher]

I use a mix of spar, BLO and mineral spirits on my game calls. Various ratios for different woods. First coat is almost always 1:1:2 ratio S:BLO:MS. It is a high end gunstock finish regimen. Multiple coats, one coat per day, hand rubbed. I like to have a 24 hour drying period between coats. I also use it on a few special pens but they are mostly gifts for special people.

I do not use it on any oily woods like cocobolo.

 

[monophoto]

My standard finish is a 1:1:1 blend of a high-quality marine alkyd varnish, pure tung oil and turpentine. I generally apply it to the surface, allow it to soak in for 30-45 minutes, and then wipe it off; allow it to cure for a few hours, buff with a gray Scotchbrite pad, and repeat at least twice more. That process leaves a tough, long lasting water-resistsant finish with a nice soft luster, but I can also buff and wax if I want a higher gloss.

I've also made a similar finish using tung oil-based polyurethane. Same application process leaves a slightly glossier surface.

 

[Woodchipper]

Interesting take on another finish for pens, etc.
Mark, do you tell your customers to hand wash the cheese cutters? Some will put everything and anything in the dishwasher. Wife had a friend who couldn't understand why her cast iron skillet rusted. She put it in the DW!