Sorby pro edge
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greenacres2
Member
I really like mine. Only drawback has been that if you travel to a class or workshop you'll more likely find wheels. So, I added a low speed 8" grinder, CBN wheels and Wolverine for bowl & spindle gouges. Skews, scrapers, spindle roughers and a few bowl gouges still go to the Sorby. Need to work on knife sharpening as well. Oval skews just need the finger pressure in the middle, same degree of difficulty on the pro-edge or wheels for the ovals!!
Hurt the wallet to put both in the shop, but they do seem to complement each other for how I'm working these days.
Earl
Hurt the wallet to put both in the shop, but they do seem to complement each other for how I'm working these days.
Earl
I have one also. I just couldn't get the hang of getting my edges like I wanted with grinder. I broke down and bought my sorby. Very pleased with it. It didn't take long to get the hang of it either. My computer is packed in storage but wish I could show the before and after pics. Big difference. I posted them here and/or the aawforum. I may try to find them and post them.
To add, I did find a couple pics. These gouges were sharpened with my sorby. I don't have before pics but trust me, they were sad looking. Lol
To add, I did find a couple pics. These gouges were sharpened with my sorby. I don't have before pics but trust me, they were sad looking. Lol
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Curly
Member
If I were to get a belt sander for sharpening I would lean towards a 2x72 like knife makers use and take advantage of the versatility they offer. Admittedly they are 2 or three times or more as much if you buy one ready to go out of the box but there are kits of pre cut parts that you need to either weld or bolt together for about the same cost. Fitting one out with a variable speed motor adds versatility, the belts being much longer, last longer, can be had in more abrasive types from more sources and cost about the same as a Sorby belt. Between the two the only real advantage the Sorby has that I can see is that it is smaller but the bench grinder I already have is in that size range.
I looked at the Sorby for a while, and seriously considered it. In the end, after seeing what they could do, I bought a pair of CBN wheels for my low speed grinder, and have never looked back. There is no comparison between aluminum oxide and CBN...the latter is VASTLY superior. I could never get my tools sharp with Al2O3 as its just not up to the task. Not, at least, like CBN.
I currently use a 350 grit CBN for most of my sharpening, although I have a 180 grit if I need to re-shape. I am considering getting a 600 grit, though, and using both the 350 and 600 to get ultra sharp edges. The 350 does a good job, and my tools are very sharp, and it takes just a matter of seconds to get them sharp (with the wolverine jig...I have tried my hand at freehand sharpening, but I don't get the same kind of edge as if I use the jig)...I'd say I spend no more than 30 seconds sharpening any tool. That said, I can still see a bit of a jagged edge (not so much a curled over "burr" like you want, just a jagged edge, which leaves marks in my wood, fine as they may be)...hence the desire to get a 600 grit. I think I'll spend most of the time with the 350, then a couple quick passes with the 600, and back to the wood.
Since moving from Al2O3 to CBN, my tools have gone from me having to work hard, and really push them into the wood...to the tools just gliding through the wood, requiring very little effort, cutting it like butter. I never understood the term "Let the wood come to the tool" before, but since moving to CBN it makes total sense! The wood, once you get the cut started, just pulls the tool through it. All you have to do is maintain the proper angle to get the shape in the wood that you want.
I currently use a 350 grit CBN for most of my sharpening, although I have a 180 grit if I need to re-shape. I am considering getting a 600 grit, though, and using both the 350 and 600 to get ultra sharp edges. The 350 does a good job, and my tools are very sharp, and it takes just a matter of seconds to get them sharp (with the wolverine jig...I have tried my hand at freehand sharpening, but I don't get the same kind of edge as if I use the jig)...I'd say I spend no more than 30 seconds sharpening any tool. That said, I can still see a bit of a jagged edge (not so much a curled over "burr" like you want, just a jagged edge, which leaves marks in my wood, fine as they may be)...hence the desire to get a 600 grit. I think I'll spend most of the time with the 350, then a couple quick passes with the 600, and back to the wood.
Since moving from Al2O3 to CBN, my tools have gone from me having to work hard, and really push them into the wood...to the tools just gliding through the wood, requiring very little effort, cutting it like butter. I never understood the term "Let the wood come to the tool" before, but since moving to CBN it makes total sense! The wood, once you get the cut started, just pulls the tool through it. All you have to do is maintain the proper angle to get the shape in the wood that you want.
greenacres2
Member
Klingspor's sells aftermarket belts that fit the ProEdge, decent assortment, with good quality and prices. Pete's idea makes sense to me now that I have the basics of sharpening down, might explore that as a next step at some point. I also picked up a 3600 rpm grinder for cheap, and acquired part of another Wolverine in a trade…maybe Santa will "surprise " me with a 180 CBN to go with the 80 and 600–edges might hold up better than the 600 for roughing bowls. Much to learn for me!
Earl
Earl
penicillin
Member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2019
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- 1,036
I know people who like the Sorby ProEdge, but I do NOT recommend it.
I learned it, used it, demo'd it for others. It takes practice to get good at using it. The tricky part is that the belt wants to pull on your turning tool and start cutting a new bevel angle. There is a learning curve to get the "touch" just right. The sanding belts are expensive and wear out fairly quickly. While learning, it is easy to mess up your turning tools, so practice on throwaway tools first (or expect to regrind a few tools = $$$ for belts).
The best thing about it is the heavy duty bevel angle setting fixture on it. It is made of very thick steel plate. The angles will never change and it will never wear out. Another reason to choose the Sorby ProEdge is if you want to avoid hollow grinds on your edges.
I have a Grizzly wet grinder, which I do NOT recommend. It is messy and slow to use.
If I had to choose again for what I need to sharpen turning tools, I would buy a low speed grinder, CBN wheels, and the Wolverine jigs. No question about that. Fast, easy, repeatable, reliable, dry, clean, simple ...
I learned it, used it, demo'd it for others. It takes practice to get good at using it. The tricky part is that the belt wants to pull on your turning tool and start cutting a new bevel angle. There is a learning curve to get the "touch" just right. The sanding belts are expensive and wear out fairly quickly. While learning, it is easy to mess up your turning tools, so practice on throwaway tools first (or expect to regrind a few tools = $$$ for belts).
The best thing about it is the heavy duty bevel angle setting fixture on it. It is made of very thick steel plate. The angles will never change and it will never wear out. Another reason to choose the Sorby ProEdge is if you want to avoid hollow grinds on your edges.
I have a Grizzly wet grinder, which I do NOT recommend. It is messy and slow to use.
If I had to choose again for what I need to sharpen turning tools, I would buy a low speed grinder, CBN wheels, and the Wolverine jigs. No question about that. Fast, easy, repeatable, reliable, dry, clean, simple ...