Some CA/BLO questions

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anna

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Jun 25, 2007
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Location
Ukiah, CA, USA.
I've been trying out this finishing technique, but I'm (obviously) having some problems. Out of five pens, I'm happy with just one of them, and that's been snapped up by my husband.

1. Does it help if I apply BLO first before the CA/BLO combination? The one time I tried this, the result was pretty bad. But there are other variables that might have contributed, too (like lathe speed), so I don't really know.

2. At what lathe speed should I apply the CA? I have a Jet 1236 with 6 speeds. I thought I should apply the CA at the lowest speed. Is that correct?

3. How long do I keep the BLO pad against the wood with CA? I read that I should smell CA fumes to know when it's curing, but I don't know what that smells like! I've tried keeping the BLO pad against the wood for a few minutes, then wipe it off with a clean pad. All of this still at the low speed. Am I supposed to increase the speed at some point here?

4. Are there other indicators of the CA being cured besides the smell of the fumes?

5. In between coats, do I go from 1500 MM all the way up to 12000 again, or do I start with higher numbers (like 4000 or 6000)?

6. I put on a friction polish after the CA/BLO (Mylands') just because, well, I like friction polish. [:I] Is that necessary or redundant?

Thanks for any tips.
 
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Hi Anna...If a picture is worth a thousand words, a video must be worth much more! Check out the video tutorials by Russ Fairfield here in the IAP Library at http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17155. I'm guessing your lathe speed is your biggest problem. Russ also had a lengthy discussion somewhere here about the chemical reasons for applying CA before BLO, but it was way over my head!
 
Those are some huge questions, Anna. There are some articles in the library about CA and finishing. Russ's video is good. You can also check out his website. If you search the archives you'll find about 24 hours worth of reading material (searching for "CA finish")
I personally apply a heavy sealer coat of thin CA on almost every wood blank I make.
When CA cures, you can usually smell it, but it stings my eyes more than anything else.
The pad will be hard and crispy when the CA is cured.
I don't think you have to do much sanding in between coats but that's just me.
In another post you mentioned wiping down with DNA. I think that can often be a problem. If you have the problem, it will show up as a haze or cloudy spots.
 
Ron and Mark,

I think Russ' videos answer a bunch of my questions, including sealing with CA glue. I tried researching about finishing, but there seems to be as many different techniques as there are posters. I just need a good starting point.

Interesting with Russ' use of brown paper bags. I read that that's equivalent to about 2000 grits. I'll have to remember to get some next time I go shopping for groceries.

I still can't figure out when the CA is actually cured. I just continue applying the BLO for at least a couple of minutes until there's some glazing on the paper towel. I hope the next few pens will have a more consistent finish than the last few.

Thanks again.[:)]
 
Anna,
I'm far from an expert at this so caveat emptor.
Can you describe what the problem is that makes you unhappy with your finish?
Is the pen perfectly smooth and ready for the finish before you start applying CA/BLO?
Is it hazing? Swirly and/or lumpy? Can you post pics to show the problem?
Some of those things might help the pros answer your questions better.
Gary
 
Anna,

Although it might be overkill because I believe Russ only goes to 600, but I sand the bare wood up to 12,000 grit before I apply the first coat of CA. For me, this has helped keep the subsequent coats of CA very smooth. Then I start the whole micro mesh cycle 1,500 to 12,000 over again after 3 coats of CA then BLO. I have just recently begun waiting an hour or so after the last coat of CA before final sanding. Again, this might be overkill, but it has improved my final results.

Good luck

Bob
 
Gary, I was trying to get a glossy finish but I end up with something more matted. One pen had parts that were glossy and parts that were matte. I don't get anything swirly or lumpy because I sand enthusiastically. Well, okay, that was a bit hyperbolic. I sand assiduously. Little imperfections really get to me.

Only one pen came out the way I wanted - with a uniform glossy coating. Problem is, I can't really remember what I did or how I did it.

I always thought that the problem is that I don't know when to wipe the excess BLO off because I can't tell when the CA has cured. I've already watched Russ' videos several times, and I'm hoping to try making a pen again tomorrow.

Bob, you actually wait an hour before final sanding? I'll have to think about that.
 
Anna,

Find a CA method that appeals to you, and follow it exactly. Keep at it until you can get consistently good results. Then, if you wish, you can start customizing the method to your particular style. Often, trying bits and pieces of various methods leads to poor results.
 
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