Snakewood - First Time User

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If you want to prevent snakewood from cracking, don't use it for a pen [:D][:D][:D][:D]

In all seriousness, you should do a search for snakewood and see the numerous suggestions. From what I have found, there is not much you can do to prevent it from cracking. Heat is a real problem and no matter what you do, the wood will move when you've glued the brass tube in.

Here's one thread you can follow:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10055&SearchTerms=snakewood

Good luck.
 
Sand, polish and finish the blank, and set it on your desk. You can even turn it into a pen holder if you like. [:D]

Otherwise, follow all the tips you'll find in the threads discussed earlier, then watch you pen for the next 3 months. When, the crack develops, you'll say "I'm glad I didn't sell that one!"
 
Yo Al in middle Georgia...Oscar here from East Georgia...
I have only made ONE Snakewood pen...Prettiest (and costliest) wood I have ever used. Paid 14 dollars for the blank, and it was beautiful.
Used it on a platinum cigar pen and it turned beautifully.
Carcking occured a few days AFTER assembly. I have researced a lot and found this is common. Mine has vertical cracks that do not show unless you are looking. I canot sell obviously, so I kept for myself...
Cracks or no cracks this pen is awesome...Answer to your question..SNAKEWOOD CRACKS....PERIOD! I do not think, from what I have read about it that you can turn one that will not. Mine was perfect, assembled without cracking, then a few days later....splits and cracks...
Good Luck OSCAR the mad pen turner
 
Originally posted by TomServo
<br />I've heard that drilling a bit over and using silicone adhesive to glue the blank in helps tremendously - it will move and help prevent cracking.
Click to expand...

You've been listening to Old Griz, but he hasn't said much about whether it WORKS. It sounds like a good idea!! (but its been several months)[?][?][?]
 
I had given up on snakewood untill an acquaintance told me his secret. He tells me take your time drilling and don't even get it hot while sanding and finishing. So armed with this new info home I go to create a snakewood masterpiece at last. The 3 pens I had made until that time had all cracked. I take a full 3 hrs drilling a 1/16 at a time and allowing the bit to cool. I used 30 min epoxy to glue the carefully sanded barrels in place. I carefully turned and sanded my soon to be work of art. No heat, remember? I carefully applied the first coat of c/a and turned in for the night. Next day I hurried to the shop and there for all the world to see was my fantastic snakewood beauty, with a hairline crack on both ends of the pen.(still carefully mounted on the mandrel that was still on the lathe. Hmmm I says to me, not like I didn't know better. The good news though is Sat night we had a get together with some folks and had a very large pit fire. I carefully applied the snakewood to said fire and although it did get very hot I can't seem to find any cracks. Of coarse I've not actually been able to locate the wood either! I am sure however those pit fire snakewood blanks are the finest I've seen before or since. So my advice on snakewood is simple, burn it and it will not crack in a area that is detectable. Hope this helps,[:p]

Jim
 
I drill and do not glue in the tubes and let it set for a month or so...check the tubes for fit..you may need to ream the hole...leave it for another few weeks and recheck. If the tubes fit, then glue them in and turn to just proud of final dimensions. Set it aside and let it crack...this has taken weeks or it happens when I go in for dinner. When you think it may be finished cracking, fill the cracks with sanding dust and CA, complete the turning and finish. A cracked and repaired Snakewood pen is nicer than most any other pen.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by DocStram
<br />I just got my first Snakewood blanks. I would appreciate any advice, tips, or suggestions for trying to prevent cracking.

Thanks
Click to expand...
 
I get the part about slowly drilling the Blank and making sure it doesn't get hot. I aslo see where leaving it a few weeks before gluing the tubes. And then making adjusts in necessary to glue the tubes.

Would wet sanding the pen after it is turned cut down on the heat?
Has anyone ever tried the wet sanding approach when it comes to Snakewood?
 
Heat isnt the only problem with snakewood. The stuff can be totaly dry (so it seems) and then a month later a crap appears. I dont know why it does what it does though.
 
If the cracks appear from glue the blanks in.

Would this work? Using silicone only glue in 1/2 inch of the tube on each end of the blank.

Turn using scary sharp tools.. let the blank sit for 2 weeks while you pray.

then remount and sand.. let the blank sit another 2 weeks while you pray more.

then remount and finish.. let he blank sit another 2 weeks while you pray even more.

then with a prayer to the snakewood god or "the god of cracks" (would that be the plumber god?)

assamble.

BTW I am half way through the above process for the first time. no cracks yet.
 
Originally posted by ed4copies
<br />
Originally posted by TomServo
<br />I've heard that drilling a bit over and using silicone adhesive to glue the blank in helps tremendously - it will move and help prevent cracking.
Click to expand...

You've been listening to Old Griz, but he hasn't said much about whether it WORKS. It sounds like a good idea!! (but its been several months)[?][?][?]
Click to expand...

Actually that was my procedure for doing soapstone, not snakewood... but I can't see why it would not work... the other thing I think would work is to relieve the inside of the tubes until the fitting just slip in place and then glue them in place instead of press fitting them... the less pressure you can put on the wood the less likely it is to crack...
 
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