Small part hold down jig

[blodal]

Here is a link to a Wood Magazine newsletter that has a small-part hold-down jig for a mitersaw.

It was developed by a woodturner for small segmented pieces.

http://tinyurl.com/y7z7pa

 

[ctEaglesc]

Aint no way I would trust the "holding power"(I use the term loosely) of a clothes pin.

 

[skiprat]

Here's how I do it. The brass rod in the glue ups were also cut in the same clamp, on the same saw.

<br />

<br />

 

[byounghusband]

Aint no way I would trust the "holding power"(I use the term loosely) of a clothes pin.

I kinda lean towards that thought too, Eagle....

But it does give me an idea for using a metal spring clamp I have to give a bit more holding power, using the same concept.

It sure does beat chasing small pieces around the shop, even when you keep the blade down after the cut and let it stop spinning.
Some really thin pieces, like accents in a segmented pem might be too small for even this to work well. But for segmented bowl pieces, it would work well

 

[ctEaglesc]

A compound miter saw is the LAST saw I would coose for accurate precise cuts on small pieces of wood.
The impact of the blade is almost"traumatic" to the wood, there is too much waste, even witha thin blade.
I'll stick with a tablesaw, a 7&1/4" blade and an accurate sled and jigs.

 

[DocStram]

Originally posted by ctEaglesc
<br />A compound miter saw is the LAST saw I would coose for accurate precise cuts on small pieces of wood.
The impact of the blade is almost"traumatic" to the wood, there is too much waste, even witha thin blade.
I'll stick with a tablesaw, a 7&1/4" blade and an accurate sled and jigs.

You might be right eagle, but that sure looks like a mitersaw Ron_McK is using to cut his blanks.

 

[blodal]

Originally posted by ctEaglesc
<br />A compound miter saw is the LAST saw I would coose for accurate precise cuts on small pieces of wood.
The impact of the blade is almost"traumatic" to the wood, there is too much waste, even witha thin blade.
I'll stick with a tablesaw, a 7&1/4" blade and an accurate sled and jigs.

There sure are a lot of compound Mitersaws used in the articles on this web site. Eagle, maybe you should tell them they are wrong.

 

[wood-of-1kind]

I use a compound mitre saw with a homemade jig to 'catch' the flying small segments that I cut. Personally I feel safer operating a mitre saw rather than a tablesaw. Operate both tools safely and things will be OK.

-Peter-

 

[ctEaglesc]

Originally posted by blodal
<br />

Originally posted by ctEaglesc
<br />A compound miter saw is the LAST saw I would cos for accurate precise cuts on small pieces of wood.
The impact of the blade is almost"traumatic" to the wood, there is too much waste, even with a thin blade.
I'll stick with a tablesaw, a 7&1/4" blade and an accurate sled and jigs.

There sure are a lot of compound Mitersaws used in the articles on this web site. Eagle, maybe you should tell them they are wrong.

First off this thread is about the use of a clothespin as a hold down for a miter saw, not what tool is best for a particular use.
But since you started down the slippery slope I will reply to your comment suggesting I tell people who have made relatively simple blanks with a miter saw <b>that they are wrong</b>.(Your words not mine)
They are not wrong, and I didn't say they were.I said it was the last tool <b>I</b> would choose
I can kill a fly with a hammer but it is not my tool of choice.
I could not make the blanks I make with the accuracy and joints I need using a miter saw.
Most using a miter saw are using a standard 10" blade with an 1/8 th kerf, too much waste.
Every 8 cuts with a standard blade yields 1 inch of waste.
Even using a thin kerf blade the waste is a third more than I have.
I get 16 cuts yielding an inch of waste.
You cannot rip 6" long pieces with a thickness of .020 with a mitersaw.
Tools have specific uses.I own 2 mitersaws,I have more accuracy and and can work with finer detail with less waste with a tablesaw.The mitersaw is too limiting.
Even with 2 mitersaws at my disposal I use the tablesaw for the intricate blanks I make.
A mitersaw can only make a "through cut".
You cannot make a blank like this on a mitersaw.

<br />

If I could only have one saw in my shop it would be a tablesaw.
"If the only tool you have is a hammer, everything becomes a nail"

(edit in)
I have installed a 7&1/4 inch Diablo blade on one of my miter saws to reduce the thckness of the Kerf of the blade resulting in less waste.
It is a double edged sword.When doing so you reduce the width of cut from front to back on the mitre saw.
It is necessary to raise the bed of the saw and add an auxillary
fence.
A tablewsaw has these limitations also but I can cut stock at least 1&1/8th inches thick even using a sled that is 1/2" thick.
You can"argue" the benifits of a miter saw all you mant, it is excellent for cutting a Myriad of angles,I can make a jig for any angle I want or need with an infantessimal amount of variations.
I can make a constant depth of cut for inlay blanks.
My hands never come within cutting distance to the blade.
I have been using a tablesaw to make the blanks I make for over 2 years which I believe is long before some listed on this forum ever made a pen let alone a segmented blank.
My third pen was a spiral segment made on the table saw.
Use what ever you feel comfortable with.I have adapted 30 years of WOODWORKING skills( and mistakes) to making the blanks I make with the tools I use.
Do this with a miter saw.Bear in mind I make my own veneers with a tablesaw.

<br />

or this

<br />
yes you can use a miter saw to makle simple blanks with angles in them but it extremely limited in it use.(and more dangerous for someone with limited experience as is the case with most tools.)
<b>Keep your fingers away from sharp spinny things!</b>

 

[wood-of-1kind]

Eagle, you now make me feel like selling my mitre saw. Anybody have a 'for sale' sign[?]

-Peter-[]

 

[ctEaglesc]

Originally posted by wood-of-1kind
<br />Eagle, you now make me feel like selling my mitre saw. Anybody have a 'for sale' sign[?]

-Peter-[]

What kind is it?
How much you mwant for it?
What would it cost to ship it to S.C. depending if it is better than the one I have?

 

[jwoodwright]

Please Read Entire Post...

I Don't Like a Hardened Steel Screw by that Spinning Blade. Also, the Lack of a sacraficial Zero Clearance Board, clamped to the bed. I've sent missles out with a Chop Saw, not since adding the board though... Does seem to Pound into the cut, even with a steady hand and letting the blade do the work.

I agree with Eagle about the Proper Blade. There are those of us that choose not to Waste Wood. Also Using Thin Kerf Blades gives you more power.


Why do all the Segmented Wood Books and other guidance suggest a Dedicated Sled for the Table saw? On top of that, they also fine-tune with Disk Sanders and jigs to get the precise angle.

A poor joint can be pulled together, however, how long will the joint be able to hold under pressure.

For Centuries, barrels were made without power tools. Nothing but an Oversize Segmented Work. True they had Specialized Planes and Tools and Shaving Horses and Holddowns.

You can cut Segments with almost any Cutting Tool out there.
Scroll Saw, Band Saw, Chop Saw including Sliders, Table Saw, Radial Arm Saw, Skil Saw, Jig Saw, Reciporcating Saw, Gent's Saw, Back Saw in a Professional or Shop Built Guide, Hand Saw and my favorite, a Hack Saw or Coping Saw... I'm sure there are other methods I've missed... Laser?

Disk Sanders can then tune the cut or even Picture Frame Miter Trimmers (Shave Miters).

My Final Point is Use What Works For You. Because, if it Just Doesn't Feel Right, then it Must be Wrong...

 

[ctEaglesc]

JAy-
Without a doubt I agree withyou.
The user MUST be corfortable with, and KNOW his tool.
I have at timestimes manypenturners are not woodworkers.I consider myself a pretty good "wood butcher" when doing flatwork.Whether it is pens or flatwork I am rarely staisfied with the finished product though am proud of most of them.
When I said the user must be comfortable with and know the tool, that means its'and his or her limitations.
There is nothing a miter saw can do that a table saw cannot.There are many things a tablesaw can do a miter saw is not able to do.
Compound miters were originally designed for trim carpenters and high end furniture shops.
It is with the advent of woodworking popularity and Borgs along with Norm building a house in 30 minutes that everyone thinks "it can't be that hard".
Well for some maybe it isn't.
I would like to point out though why would anyone use a saw that is DESIGNED to use a 10" blade to cut skinny little 3/4 inch pieces?
Yes a standard table saw can take blades up top 10", but by virtue of its' design it can take blades smaller than 10".
Have you ever priced out a 10" dado set?That is why I only have an 8" set.
Cutting angles in a piece of wood and gluing back together at random is no big deal.Cutting them length wise on a miter saw is not very safe though it can be done.
We are all adults and responsible for our own mistakes.
I can easily have an injury on a tablesaw but I am sure it would happen a lot sooner on a miter saw.

 

[Rifleman1776]

The topic is: <b>Small part hold down jig</b>

Leaves the discussion pretty wide open IMHO.

 

[DocStram]

Originally posted by blodal
<br />

Originally posted by ctEaglesc
<br />A compound miter saw is the LAST saw I would coose for accurate precise cuts on small pieces of wood.
The impact of the blade is almost"traumatic" to the wood, there is too much waste, even witha thin blade.
I'll stick with a tablesaw, a 7&1/4" blade and an accurate sled and jigs.

There sure are a lot of compound Mitersaws used in the articles on this web site. Eagle, maybe you should tell them they are wrong.

I don't mean to put words in Bill's mouth .... but, maybe what he meant to say was "Eagle, maybe you should tell them that's the last saw you would choose for accurate precise cuts". I guess there's a difference between "the last saw" and "the wrong saw".

 

[ctEaglesc]

Originally posted by DocStram
<br />

Originally posted by blodal
<br />

Originally posted by ctEaglesc
<br />A compound miter saw is the LAST saw I would coose for accurate precise cuts on small pieces of wood.
The impact of the blade is almost"traumatic" to the wood, there is too much waste, even witha thin blade.
I'll stick with a tablesaw, a 7&1/4" blade and an accurate sled and jigs.

There sure are a lot of compound Mitersaws used in the articles on this web site. Eagle, maybe you should tell them they are wrong.

I don't mean to put words in Bill's mouth .... but, maybe what he meant to say was "Eagle, maybe you should tell them that's the last saw you would choose for accurate precise cuts". I guess there's a difference between "the last saw" and "the wrong saw".

Based on what I have seen, same thing.

 

[byounghusband]

A compound miter saw is the LAST saw I would coose for accurate precise cuts on small pieces of wood.
The impact of the blade is almost"traumatic" to the wood, there is too much waste, even witha thin blade.
I'll stick with a tablesaw, a 7&1/4" blade and an accurate sled and jigs.

I don't disagree with you at all on that point either. I have had good success with a CMS for my segmented pens, but they are not the same style as yours. I would never even try to do work like you posted with a CMS. I am planning (item 151 on the list) to make a variable angle sled for my TS. I also think I will look into smaller (than 10") blade in the future.

Pens and their size are one thing. Segmented bowl pieces, like I stated before are another story. CMS will work until I get a sled for the TS.

IMHO, use what you have and are comfortable with. If you don't have an absolute warm fuzzy feeling doing something with ANY power tool, <b>DON'T!!!!</b>. You will be better off with ALL of your fingers, than a messed up project AND messed up digits.