Skew

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Easysport

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I make myself a promise that I'd learn to use this skew thing. I thought I seen a thread once the layed out how to use this thing without killing one's self,[B)] but can't seem to locate it.[8)] Any help would be greatly appreciated. :D
 
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Practice, practice, practice! [8D] There are a lot of good videos probably but the best lessons I ever got of using a skew was a demo by Nick Cook. Learned more that day about using the skew than anything else I had done. Still won't say I have mastered it but I do use it more and more.
 
Maybe it can be taught. But, I believe, your ability to use a skew will come naturally as you learn turning and become more comfortable with the lathe and tools. I couldn't use a skew for a long time, just tore up anything I touched with it. Then, one day, I just picked it up without thinking and began using. Use the videos and all, they won't hurt and you will always learn something. But, mainly, just stay with the lathe.
 
I started to utilize the skew more myself. I turn it upside down (the short end up) and I cut with the grain. It's all about practice and feel. I let the bevel rub on the blank and start lifting the handle very slowly and watch the blade and keep lifting the handle until I see the wood start coming off the blade. I still gouge the wood and get kick backs, but it's becoming less and less. But when I get a kick back, I hope there's enough wood left on the blank for me to shave it down.
 
I've been playing with my skew lately, and yesterday i was turning some afzelia xlay with a knot - and i ended up with an ovalish shape where the knot was, the knot was harder than the rest of the wood and didn't cut as much... any ideas on how to avoid this?
 
Originally posted by TomServo
<br />I've been playing with my skew lately, and yesterday i was turning some afzelia xlay with a knot - and i ended up with an ovalish shape where the knot was, the knot was harder than the rest of the wood and didn't cut as much... any ideas on how to avoid this?
Click to expand...

Hi Brian,
Increasing the lathe speed to 3000 rpm or higher will help. Use a scraper to fix the out of round condition. A gouge or a skew can be used as a scraper, just don't rub the bevel.
txbob
 
Originally posted by txbob
<br />
Originally posted by TomServo
<br />I've been playing with my skew lately, and yesterday i was turning some afzelia xlay with a knot - and i ended up with an ovalish shape where the knot was, the knot was harder than the rest of the wood and didn't cut as much... any ideas on how to avoid this?
Click to expand...

Hi Brian,
Increasing the lathe speed to 3000 rpm or higher will help. Use a scraper to fix the out of round condition. A gouge or a skew can be used as a scraper, just don't rub the bevel.
txbob
Click to expand...

Hope you are referring only to tiny turnings, like pens. 3000 rpm on something much larger with a skew is dangerous and asking for trouble.
 
I started typing a response but it is so complicated that I myself got confused!!! [:0][B)] so I decided to delete it.

Practice and do watch those videos. Pay special attention to the point where skew is positioned at the tool rest (where skew meets toolrest) in reference to the cutting point (where skew meets wood).

BTW, if your skew has the rectangular cross-section, round off the corners so it won't damage your tool rest.
 
Originally posted by Rifleman
Hope you are referring only to tiny turnings, like pens. 3000 rpm on something much larger with a skew is dangerous and asking for trouble.
Click to expand...

You're absolutely right! I had assumed we were talking about a pen blank.
txbob
 
Watching Alan Lacer's videos did it for me. Then I made a lot shavings just practicing. What he does with a skew is pretty amazing. What Dario said about the rectangular cross section is true. Rounding over the square corners also makes it easier to rotate the skew when cutting beads.
 
Originally posted by gerryr
<br />Watching Alan Lacer's videos did it for me. Then I made a lot shavings just practicing. What he does with a skew is pretty amazing. What Dario said about the rectangular cross section is true. Rounding over the square corners also makes it easier to rotate the skew when cutting beads.
Click to expand...

I'm rapidly becoming 'anti video'. While those guys are masters, they invariably use green, and often soft, woods. Shavings fly like crazy. What they do bears no relationship to most of us who pick up a hunk of wood that has been in the garage for years and try turning it. I use a skew, it is a primary tool for me. But I have never had the 'shavings' come off like the videos. A lot of those 'video guys' will only partially turn a piece, then wrap it in brown paper, put away for two or three years then take out and finish. Not many of us are willing to wait three years to finish a bowl for Aunt Bessie's birthday.
 
Spend the money and buy the Lacer signature skew. I have the smaller one and all my problems went away. With a sharp edge, you can go from the finish cut right to MM.
Dale
 
Originally posted by Rifleman

Not many of us are willing to wait three years to finish a bowl for Aunt Bessie's birthday.
Click to expand...

Frank,

You can turn green wood, dry and finish (a bowl)...all in the same day. I also dried green wood, turn and finish (a pen) the same day. [;)]

I did this a few times already using a microwave.

Definitely not an ideal way to go but just know it is possible and that it is there as an option.
 
I understand your frustration with a tool that one min is leaving an almost glossy finish, and in the next has left a deep spiral cut in the finish layer of your piece.

The way I learned was to watch one segment of Alan lacers video "Son of Skew" get a bunch of popular 2x2 squares mount one of them between centers then do that one move over and over and over.

BTW lest you think I was fast at learning it... I think I filled 2 90 gallon bins with the shavings by the time I thought I was good enough. To this day after a couple of weeks of no turning I still grab a blank of ugly wood and makesaw dust before I start on a pen.

Kinda like the way I taught myself better handwrighting. Practice, Practice, Practice, Practice, Practice, and repeat.
 
I've been turning close to 3yrs and still consider myself lacking when it comes to uaing a skew. I know 1 professional turner who simply will not use a skew at all. I have been advised and have found personally that an 1 1/4" skew is easier to learn on than say a 3/4" skew. I wish you the best,
Jim
 
I am a visual learner. As that, I use DVDs to learn and relearn. I do like the Alan Lacer videos but also get value out of Richard Raffan and Bonie Klein videos. I like the DVD especially as I do not see all the details and the subtle things going on until after I learn the basics. In math I had to learn to count before I could do addition. So for me -- visual learn, practice the skill several times, then visual learn the some more and practice the additional skills and then go through the cycle again.

I remind myself that a production turner who has done it hundreds of times has skills and control that I cannot match so keep practicing. I think the curved skew approach of Lacer is a solid place to anchor your efforts.
 
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