Skew vs. Sorby Spindlemaster

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jhelminski

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Anyone use the Sorby Spindlemaster?
How does it compare to a skew in terms of finished cut and ease of use?
What size is best to use in pen turning?
Is the technique different from the skew?

-Jim
 
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I use a sorby spindlemaster. They both have ther advantages and they both have a degree of learning curve but the spindlemaster is easier to learn then a skew but I would still recommend you learn how to use a skew properly. I have been practicing with a skew more and more lately and the finish cut that you can get with practice is far better than what I was able to get with the spindlemaster but I still prefer the spindlemaster for darn near almost all of my turning.
 
<b>Hi, I have two of them. 1/2" and 1". I use the smaller one extensively for shaping cuts. I would say it is much better than a skew for that but NOT to the point of offending skew fans. The round tip just has less grab and/or potential for mis-steps.

I use the 1" on bigger items and think it is too much for pens personally.

All of the above being said.. it doesn't replace the 3/4" gouge in my arsenal. I use both a roughing gouge and a spindle gouge for general pen production.

Steve
60+ pens a week most weeks.</b>
 
I don't have a Spindlemaster and I'm certainly not trying to offend the gouge or spindlemaster users at all. I find I have much better control of the skew and get a better cut. This pen was my first using a skew after I read the article that Daniel posted last year. I can't even do that with my 1/4" detail gouge unless I want to break out the 100 grit sandpaper.
<b>Image Insert:</b><br />
200551342650_ipe.jpg
<br /> JMO [:D]
 
Originally posted by alamocdc
<br />I don't have a Spindlemaster and I'm certainly not trying to offend the gouge or spindlemaster users at all. I find I have much better control of the skew and get a better cut. This pen was my first using a skew after I read the article that Daniel posted last year. I can't even do that with my 1/4" detail gouge unless I want to break out the 100 grit sandpaper.
<b>Image Insert:</b><br />
200551342650_ipe.jpg
<br /> JMO [:D]
Click to expand...

Compelling agrument, IF I was one to argue. [:)]
 
I have the 1/2" Spindlemaster and used it quite a bit before learning to use the skew. It works quite well, but the skew leaves a much smoother surface. My wife has started turning recently (primarily bottle stoppers and tops) and favors a round nose scraper for most work.
 
Originally posted by mrcook4570
<br />I have the 1/2" Spindlemaster and used it quite a bit before learning to use the skew. It works quite well, but the skew leaves a much smoother surface. My wife has started turning recently (primarily bottle stoppers and tops) and favors a round nose scraper for most work.
Click to expand...

Isn't it neat? I'm not trying to be sarcastic either (honest!). This is one of the few times where I've seen different people prefer different tools for the same job. What's even more interesting is that you've (presumably) helped teach her, yet despite your preference (and any bias you may have (un)intentionally imparted), she still prefers something else. Just goes to show that, when someone asks what the "best" tool is for making pens, the best answer is "the one with which you get the best results".
 
I occasionally use a spindlemaster. I found it very helpful when turning a difficult piece of wood, e.g., cross grain brittle stuff. In that case, I use the spindlemaster for roughing because for me, it doesn't catch like gouges do and still lets me shape relatively quickly. But having said that, I always finish with a skew to get much more control over the final detailed shaping (not to mention the smoother cut).
 
I have a 1/2" spindlemaster that is collecting dust. That has been the only tool that I wish I would have never bought. Maybe with some practice I'd use or maybe even like it, but as it is I don't care for it. Two things I did like about it the two or so times I used it was, it does leave a very nice finish, and it works nice for cove cuts.
I'd part with it for a decent trade or a little cash though.
 
I too have a spindlemaster that is collecting dust. I have 6 skews and I use them from start to finish on all of my pens. Once I got used to the skew the spindlemaster has not been used. Thinking about grinding it into another skew.
 
I have a spindle master that came as a gift from LOML. I use it from time to time but rather use a slew or the scrapers with carbide inserts I have. (yes I have real scrapers and related gear). The inserts last a long time and are easy to hone on the diamond stones.
 
I have two spindle masters ..... I really enjoy using them. One of the nice things about them is how easy they are to sharpen. Plus, they give a nice smooth cut. I've started using my skews and may switch over one day. But for now ... spindlemasters are fine with me. But then again, I am a rookie at all of this.
 
Does anyone turn bowls with skews? (ie the outside) I was turning my mesquite bowl and was having a merry old time, except when I hit the end grain transition and had gigantic blowouts! :( I still suck with a skew...
 
I use both, once I get my blank to the shape I want, I use the Sorby Spindlemaster to smooth the blank, then I follow with a skew to do the actual planing. Both tools need to have a good sharp edge in order for them to really be effective. Using the Sorby or the skew properly will reduce your sanding chores.
Good luck and practice.
Patrick
Originally posted by jhelminski
<br />Anyone use the Sorby Spindlemaster?
How does it compare to a skew in terms of finished cut and ease of use?
What size is best to use in pen turning?
Is the technique different from the skew?

-Jim
Click to expand...
 
Originally posted by TomServo
<br />Does anyone turn bowls with skews? (ie the outside) I was turning my mesquite bowl and was having a merry old time, except when I hit the end grain transition and had gigantic blowouts! :( I still suck with a skew...
Click to expand...

The skew is not the best tool for bowls. I guess you can use one on the outside if it is used like a scraper.

For bowls, it would be best to use a shear cut with a bowl gouge
 
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