Skew useage

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Firefyter-emt

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Putnam, Connecticut, USA.
Guys I have been using the skew for a little while and for the most part I have found my way towithout killing myself of the blank, but can I do better? Anyone want to post some tips, hints ect?? What angle side to side and approach angle is best? Do you work both directions or alwyas in the same direction? I know I "could" spend $30 or so on a video, but if I am basicly doing it right I hate to dump more money that I don't really need to.
 
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Why not start describing your process..maybe someone can spot what you need to improve on.

Using the skew is difficult to describe. Best bet for you is to arrange someone to show you. Maybe a turning club near you or a Woodcraft store maybe?
 
Huh, it is hard to explain. I tend to use the middle to the bottom edge of the skew to push along the blank. I come at it from both ends and tend to round the edges down at the end of the blank. The tool is normaly held with the handle at about 7 to 8 o'clock. If you were looking at the end of the blank, my "work area" the tool is cautting at is about 10 to 11 o'clock. That make any sence?


PS, no local stores near me..
 
You can get it from CSUSA, IIRC, as well as other stores online. I learned not only how to USE the skew, but also how to better sharpen it. It made a HUGE difference.
 
For me... what matters is the angle that the cutting edge is presented to the spinning wood. It doesn't matter what part of the edge it is...upper, middle or lower...they all work okay. FYI most of the time my cutting edge is almost perpendicular the lathe's bed or the pen barrel. This way the cutting edge is almost tangent to the spinning wood. Hope I am making sense.

What you have to keep in mind is that the cutting edge have to be forward the place where the skew meets the tool rest. Once you break this rule, you are bound to get a nasty catch.

It helps a lot if you can bring the tool rest as close to the blank as possible...usually I keep mine just about 1/2" to 3/4" away.

Again this is my style...and I am self taught based on my reading of Raffan books. I am sure there are much better styles out there.
 
Lee,don't know about most of the guys and girls on here but when i put the blanks on the lathe and turn the thing on it's a new ballgame every time,whatever the blank will take that's what i give it,i know if it's soft wood i take it easy,if it's solid wood i get a little more aggresive with it,other than that all i can say is good luck.
 
Originally posted by Firefyter-emt
<br />Huh, it is hard to explain......PS, no local stores near me..

It's equally hard for us to give you tips or explain how to do it properly!!

No local store......how about a woodworking club??

I don't have a lot of money either. Went to the local public library and had them odrer me a few books from the inter-library loan system as they did not have any books in their local system. You might even be able to get som videos??
 
I once saw a drawn diagram describing how the skew is ment to meet the wood. that along with some written explaination worked pretty good. I agree with the others though. finding someone to show you would be best. they can help trouble shoot on the spot and you are not left to guess just what is not right.
I still think it would be nice to have a drawing and explaination around here for those that have nothing better to go by. anyone up to doing that. I don't have the ability to draw with my computer.
 
Thanks, I was just sitting here mulling over it thinking there might be some hints ot tips, but it seems to be hard to put it into words. I have no real issues with the skew like I said, but I was never "properly trained" you might say. I will check around with a few guys and maybe send my wife to look for some more books or videos for me.[;)]
 
Originally posted by Daniel
<br />I once saw a drawn diagram describing how the skew is ment to meet the wood. that along with some written explaination worked pretty good. I agree with the others though. finding someone to show you would be best. they can help trouble shoot on the spot and you are not left to guess just what is not right.
I still think it would be nice to have a drawing and explaination around here for those that have nothing better to go by. anyone up to doing that. I don't have the ability to draw with my computer.

Good idea Daniel. You don't have to draw...pics will do [:D][;)]

I would do it if I am qualified but I am afraid I am not. There are much more experienced and knowledgeable folks with the skew than me. [:I]
 
I just checked the site mentioned by Roy99664, and I think he meant :

http://technicalvideorental.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=118_28

instead ... [;)]

Oh, and it is $10 per week per DVD/tape (sets are $17 / week)
 
My opinion only -- - A lot of folks have a problem with the skew because they are trying to use a dull tool. The skew should be the sharpest tool you own, and sharp enough to shave the hair on your arm. Don't be afraid to spend some time sharpening it. An edge from a 60 grit wheel isn't good enough.
 
I will do the "me too" for the Alan Lacer DVDs. I have both of them and as I get better, I rewatch them to see what I missed the last time I watched. Either I am dense or the skew is subtle (most vote for the former).

Alan is a "honer" and hones the edge frequently. Really sharp edges and ends make a big difference. I am becoming a "honer" too with diamond stones.

The only bad side of the Lacer videos is that Alan is very good and watching him do tiny details with a big skew points out how far I still have to go with this skill.
 
the photo for the video
The Skew Chisel Series
http://technicalvideorental.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1148&zenid=e4f983b99328024c0e454ef61e0e93bc
(hopefully that link will work otherwise follow the link in pastor Bills post and find the video) is one of the best camera angles i've seen in one single shot for how to use the skew for the plaining cut. I think a series of about three photos could relaly capture it, I'll see if I can do something later. in this photo the cutting tip is a bit blurred but you can tell how it is almost riding right over the top of the spindle. or that's how I like to describe it.
 
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