Single Type Finishes and Newbie question...

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rhe221

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Greetings!

I am just starting out on marketing and getting into finding the types of finishes I want for the various looks I want for my pens, some more Satin, some higher Gloss.

What are the better products I should look into as I prefer to use only 1 type of finish on my pens? I read that soo many of you use CA(Really? A coat of CA glue?) plus this and that or what be based on personal preferance. Are these multiple coats really that beneficial? What is the time taken to put on all the different layers respectivly?

Right now I use Hut Crystal Coat. A Very nice finish as it goes on nice, especially with 2 or 3 coats. You can see in my photos in my Pens for Sale photo album</u> it is a more Satin finish that shows up on the wood depending on the species.

I dislike the "plastic" look as I prefer the wood to be the highlight and not to make it seem like it is shrouded in soo much finish that the pen might have been made from the fake plastic wood of some early 1990s Lincoln or Buick. What should I use to get a Thin coat of finish on the pens without encasing it in masses of time taking layers and making it a 'Buick Special'?

Thanks!
Tom
 
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I think most of the opinions center around protecting the wood - although most people like shiny things, too! [;)] Lots of threads here and tutorials about finishes. I've converted to CA/BLO and like the comfort in knowing that the wood will be protected after the wax or crystal coat wears off.
 
Tom,

There is a huge difference in wood on a pen versus a table or piece of furniture. As noted in many posts on this forum, a pen is held many times a day, it is put into a shirt pocket and is exposed to sweat, sweat from the palm, oil from fingers. You are interested in the look of the wood, and if I read your post correctly - you seem to be searching for a minimum coating. There is a choice to make - that what looks good to you with minimum coating, or, protective usability that will maintain its looks for the long term. You are not going to get both by most people's expectations unless you use an oily wood to begin with.

<b>I read that soo many of you use CA(Really? A coat of CA glue?) plus this and that or what be based on personal preferance.</b>
You are kidding, right? Is there something that is not understandable about the numerous posts, FAQs and Tutorials on this subject? Welcome to a new world of learning!

<b>Are these multiple coats really that beneficial? </b>
Single glossy coats (or two or three thin light coats) to some people look cheesy. To me, a single coat of finish looks worse than a good waxing. Mulitple coats fill the pores and make the surface smooth like on fine furniture. Multiple coats can be buffed or used with 3200 or 4000 MM to take the shine off and bring it to a sheen state if you don't like the "plastic" shine.

Two of three light coats that have not been sanded down leave the pores showing, which in many fine furniture is indicative of lack of attention to detail. If the pores are shown, seen and felt, then the finish should be a "sheen". A shine (paint/finish) over the wood in which there are multiple reflections due to 1. uneven sanding, 2. different levels of the wood or 3. in which the finish in the pores are not level with the rest of the wood - then this is really a sign of poor finish. These situations work and look best with satin or sheen finishes. "Shiny" finishes look best when the surface is very smooth.

Another reason for multiple coats: sanding often cuts through the "finish" at several places into the wood during the first 2 to 4 coatings, leaving a blotchy finish. It is best to keep working with the finish until all sanding is taking place in/on or at the "finish" level, not the wood.

All of the above is subjective. Don't get me wrong, some people like the minimalist finish, but it won't be considered in the quality or professional category. I am not there yet myself, but that is what I shoot for.

One more note: There are different levels of finish. Some very shiny finishes look cheesy and plastic like while other very shiny finishes look very beautiful, deep and lustrous. The beautiful, deep and lustrous look versus cheesy plastic look is usually determined by the skill of the finisher.
 
Originally posted by jthompson1995
<br />If you only want to do one kind of finish, make it a high gloss finish. You can knock back the shine with MM or steel wool, but you cannot make a satin finish shiny.
Click to expand...

I think you can make a satin finish shiny again with CA (and others). On two occasions I knocked the shine down with 3200 / 4000 MM. AND I can take it back up to a shine with 6000 - 12000 MM.
 
Tom,

Welcome to the forum. For starters, I would recommend that you review all the posts and tutorials associated with finishing. Also take a stroll over to Russ Fairfield's site and review his writings in finishing. This will provide you with a wealth of information on finishing that will prove invaluable.

That said, in finishing a pen, you are looking for two things: durability and beauty (for lack of a better term). The Hut Crystal Coat that you are currently using provides some beauty, but not much durability. (btw, I think almost all penturners started out using a product like Crystal Coat and then graduated to more effective finishes.)

imho, the two finishes that seem to provide the best of both durability and beauty are CA glue and lacquer. Real quick pros and cons, CA is quick and more durable, but can look plasticky ( I think I invented a word). Lacquer is more attractive, providing terrific clarity and depth, but takes significantly longer time to achieve that beauty.

For the record, I currently finish my pens exclusively with lacquer.

In the interest of full disclosure, I am certainly not a finishing expert and I expect that others can provide better (and probably contrary) information. Once again, I would read all you can and then experiment until you find what works for you.

Good luck.

jeff
 
Originally posted by leehljp
<br />
Originally posted by jthompson1995
<br />If you only want to do one kind of finish, make it a high gloss finish. You can knock back the shine with MM or steel wool, but you cannot make a satin finish shiny.
Click to expand...

I think you can make a satin finish shiny again with CA (and others). On two occasions I knocked the shine down with 3200 / 4000 MM. AND I can take it back up to a shine with 6000 - 12000 MM.
Click to expand...

I agree you can make a satin finish shiny again if you use a finish that is glossy, but if you use, say, satin polyurethane, it won't form a glossy finish no matter how you MM it. So the type and gloss of finish you use can limit you in the amount of gloss you can get from it.
 
Another option for a Finish is Enduro but that is a long multi step process with 4 to 9 coats depending on the effect desired and the type of wood.

For pens you want a finish that is durable and requires little maintenance to retain the finish.

Most all finishes used are multi coat finish, each with their own pros and cons, from what I have learned there are as many ways to finish a pen as their are fish in the ocean, what works for one person may or may not work for you, you have to follow the general advice and find what works for you.
 
I started out with Crystal Coat and quickly became dissatisfied because the shine vanished almost instantly. I switched to Deft spray lacquer and was marginally satisfied with the results. When I finally figured out how to do a CA finish, I used it on everything, even oily woods like Cocobolo and African Blackwood. I got outstanding results with CA and could easily turn a glassy surface into a satin one with 0000 steel wool. I'm now back to lacquer, Unaxol specifically, and use it whenever I can. I think some woods need a CA finish, especially soft woods like Cedar and Juniper. I also use it on woods that have large pores because I can achieve a dead level surface in a matter of minutes rather than the several days it would take me with lacquer. I personally don't believe that any one finish is correct for all types of wood. The trick is in gaining enough experience with different woods and different finishes to know what to use when. When I use CA, I put on anywhere from 3-5 coats and with lacquer I use 8-10 coats. There are some people here who dip their blanks in lacquer and get outstanding results. I don't know if they use multiple coats or not, but suspect they do.

As has already been mentioned, go the Russ Fairfield's site and read everything he has there about finishing. Russ knows more about finishing than probably the rest of us combined.
 
Tom, I hope you don't get turned off by the different finishes and the work involved. I am also a newbie, and as such started off with Shellawax friction polish, then changed to Mylands friction Polish, with several coats of sanding sealer first. I liked this. I turned my first beaded pen in Padauk, and finihed this way, started carrying it in my pocket and within 3 weeks Almost ALL of the shine and luster was off. I took the pen apart, refinished it the same way, but added a final coat of ren-wax and buffed. Looked Great, two weeks later it was dull and lifeless. I then went to the Deft Spray laquer and like the finish with anywhere from 6 -10 coats to fill the poers and such. I felt I was satisfied until I met a fellow turner and he showed me his 8 month old still shiny CA-BLO finished pen from his pocket. I feel for certain woods this is the best and so I have ordered a variable speed lathe primarily to be able to put on the CA-Blo finish, and to help with the sanding. My old lathes slowest speed was 1600 RPM's and WAY to fast for the MM 12000 and such. Hope this helps. Try them all, then make up your own mind. I see myself using 2-3 different types of finish, depending on the wood and look I am after.

Rob
 
Lose the Hut. That's one of the few opinions in which I have enough confidence to be dognatic.

Beyond that, experiment. Mylands isn't bad, and I've had decent luck with durability. But it's hard to argue with the durability of ca/blo.

Where I am now is primarily using ca/blo, but occasionally I'll add a couple of coats of lacquer if the ca/blo didn't quite get there.
 
Well i don`t know,i made a pen in jan.2007 atlas gave it to my buddy up north at our cabin,he uses it in is metal garage shop,was up there and i said you still got that pen ugh,,oh yeah here it is,,still looks good to me,finish is fine,and this guy got grease and chemicals all over the place.Nothing more then 4 coats of mylands friction polish and hut stick wax.So waddya saying? Carl
 
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