silver

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dfurlano

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anyone ever use a silver liquid or glue or whatever as an inlay? Not silver plate, wire, or anything solid. I need to fill an intricate shape.
 
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If I recall correctly Pewter is a mix of Silver and Lead. Enough silver that the lead is no problem. Been to long to know the ratio. If you buff the pewter it is nice and shiny like silver.
 
I tried to mix silver leaf with epoxy and this is what I got. Not to bad but you can see it has a flake look. I also need to make the design larger to get more detail. (click to make larger)

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I melted the pewter. It does not really flow. Instead, it beads up, so I mash it into the carving with a putty knife. Smother it with thin CA to lock it in place, then turn away the mess, sand, and finish.

Another approach would be to turn and finish the barrel. Then carve or laser engrave your design. Then fill with acrylic paint or rub n buff and wipe off before it dries.
 
I have used aluminium powder mixed with epoxy as a silver filler. The wood need to be sealed before you put the aluminium in or the aluminium gets into the grain when you sand.
 
Pewter is metalic tin. No lead in it at all. The surface tension is probably a bit much for filling laser engraving, but works nice in larger grooves - makes nice nose pieces on ML rifle stocks.

Brownells sells fine aluminum powder that may give you the effect, but may look like a grey metalic rather than silver.
 
Most pewter sold today contains no lead. A lot is cast for historical reproduction of eating utensils. Do your I-searches, a number of suppliers will be found. It is readily cast and flows well. Silver does not flow well and usually requires a centrifuge to fill a mold.
 
My wife calls it that also. I never really noticed until she mentioned it but you are correct it does resemble a ram.

I bought some pewter and a melting pot so I am going to give casting a shot. I may make a blank out of plaster and cut the shape and cast into the plaster part. Have to wait and see how I want to proceed.
 
Another option is get some Testor's silver or chrome enamel paint from a hobby shop and let it sit upright for a couple of days to allow the pigment and thinner to separate, then pour off as much thinner as possible. Get some 2 part epoxy that rod builders use for coating the guide wraps. This stuff isn't an epoxy adhesive, but a casting epoxy. Mix up the recommended minimum, 3cc of each part, and then add some of the pigment to it, doesn't take a lot. You can then force the colored epoxy into the design, allow it dry, sand off any excess and coat with CA.
 
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