Shopsmith Users What speed do you use?

[navycop]

If you use your SS for Drilling Blanks, turning and finishing what speed (letter)do you use.
Drilling wood
Drilling acrylic

Turning wood
Turning acrylic

Sanding wood

Micromesh acrylic

 

[plantman]

Mike; I use the bandsaw speed for drilling blanks. I keep the Shop Smith in the Drill Press mode on one end, with the band saw on the other end. I do everything else on my other lathes. Turning at high speed ( 3000 ), sanding by hand at stop, and finishing at low speed ( 900 ). Mostly on the Mini Micro Metal Lathe. Any segmenting I do I use the Shop Smith band saw. I also have a small band saw mounted on my lathe cabinet to cut blanke to size. Hope this helps !! Jim S

 

[navycop]

Mike; I use the bandsaw speed for drilling blanks. I keep the Shop Smith in the Drill Press mode on one end, with the band saw on the other end. I do everything else on my other lathes. Turning at high speed ( 3000 ), sanding by hand at stop, and finishing at low speed ( 900 ). Mostly on the Mini Micro Metal Lathe. Any segmenting I do I use the Shop Smith band saw. I also have a small band saw mounted on my lathe cabinet to cut blanke to size. Hope this helps !! Jim S

Thanks. As you you know the SS does not have speed number settings just letters. It has some words such as DADO, Disc Sanding, Jig saw, etc. It is just hard for me sometimes to convert the speed that some people use (say 3000 or 900) to the letter on my shopsmith.

 

[plantman]

Mike; I use the bandsaw speed for drilling blanks. I keep the Shop Smith in the Drill Press mode on one end, with the band saw on the other end. I do everything else on my other lathes. Turning at high speed ( 3000 ), sanding by hand at stop, and finishing at low speed ( 900 ). Mostly on the Mini Micro Metal Lathe. Any segmenting I do I use the Shop Smith band saw. I also have a small band saw mounted on my lathe cabinet to cut blanke to size. Hope this helps !! Jim S

Thanks. As you you know the SS does not have speed number settings just letters. It has some words such as DADO, Disc Sanding, Jig saw, etc. It is just hard for me sometimes to convert the speed that some people use (say 3000 or 900) to the letter on my shopsmith.

Mike; I think HF has a digital tack you might want to look into. You could than use a marker to note the speed of eash letter. Jim S

 

[plantman]

:bananen_smilies022:Mike; Here are the speed conversions for the Shop Smith.
A=700 B=800 C= 900 D=1000 E=1100 F=1200 G=1400 H=1600 I=1800 J=2000 K=2200 L=2400 M=2600 N=2800 O=3000 P=3200 Q=3400 R=3600 S=3800 T=4000 U=4200 V=4400 W=4600 X=4800 Y=5000 Z=5200. The lower auxillary shaft is 1.6 times the above speed for each setting. The 900 and 3000 were the speeds I use on my mini metal lathe. Hope this gives you a better idea of the speed in rpms and the letter system. I drill my blanks on E, would turn on O, apply my CA on C, and polish or MM on O. I always sand by hand with the lathe stopped. I use the same speeds for any material because I am using a metal lathe with a fixed cutter, and can control the exact speed of travel and depth of cut. No grabs !!!! Jim S

 

[jcm71]

Mike,
I turn (pens) on R, sand on K and apply CA on A.

John

 

[76winger]

I usually round the blanks and turn down about 75% of the material at the g - h speed settings regardless of material. Then back off to c setting for turning the final 25%.

Sanding and MM is done in the 'a' setting with stopped hand sanding horizontally for each grit to remove any radial scratches.

CA is always applied on the lowest speed setting.

 

[Russknan]

B for drilling, band saw, and disc sanding to square. P for turning both acrylic & wood, and sanding. A for applying finish. Certainly open to other ideas. Intrigued by Dave's completing his turning at C. Would really like to know the rationale for that. Maybe I'll do it too(?) Russ

 

[76winger]

B for drilling, band saw, and disc sanding to square. P for turning both acrylic & wood, and sanding. A for applying finish. Certainly open to other ideas. Intrigued by Dave's completing his turning at C. Would really like to know the rationale for that. Maybe I'll do it too(?) Russ

My thoughts has been thought of causing less damage should I get a catch and thus a better chance of repairing the damage. This is all with solid material with no metal mixed into segmenting, I haven't tried those yet and envision speed might be needed for those. Except for the harder Trustone blanks I use a skew for just about everything and the combination has pretty good for me. Always light cuts with the skew freshly sharpened for that last little bit and I've only had 3 blowouts in 4 years and almost 400 pens and pencils. So it works for me.. :wink: