Sharpening jigs

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bsshog40

bsshog40

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So I have an old 6" grinder. Bought an 80 grit wheel for it to sharpen my tools. It doesn't have the little rests or anything left on it that may have been attached. Lol I bought a jig off ebay, pictured below and it's basically a piece of crap. It doesn't tighten down enough and wants to keep jumping into my grinding wheel when I go to sharpen. I've been trying to sharpen my 1/4" spindle gouge and I just can't get the shape on it. So I'm looking at a couple other jig setups and was wondering if anyone has used them or is using one that would be easy to use for an amateur sharpener? I'm looking at the Wolverine Vari-Grind Jig and the Nova Sharpening center. Thanks for any help!
Bobby

Here's the funky one I bought. Wasted about 40 something $ on this.
 

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Hello again Bobby

I will mention what I think are important bullet points but i am sure there will be others to add or give their methods. Now what I will say is not written in stone and many ways of doing things so take it for what you paid for this.:smile:

I recommend an 8" grinder as opposed to 6" because the smaller the wheel the more concave or hollow grind your grind is and this is not optimum in turning tools.A slow speed grinder 1600-1700rpms is a better choice because it will not heat the metal so fast as with a high speed grinder. You do not want bluing on your turning tools because you take the temper out of it. Will not hold an edge then. Some people buy VS grinders but I have no need for them and it maybe something you find important at a later date. You would want a grinder with 3/4hp if you ever want to switch to CBN wheels. They are the big news today and they are heavier but will not wear like friable wheels white aluminum oxide. can get away with a 1/2HP motor but may not be able to use 2 CBN wheels or. if you do you may have to start spinning by hand to get started because of the weight. Motors like this are rated differently by various companies so sometimes you do not know what the true HP is.

Wheels, I would use a 120grit for touch up sharpening and that is basically all you will be doing. 80 grit is for reshaping a grinding edge and too course for sharpening scrapers and tools like that. You want white aluminum oxide wheels. There is a whole world out there involving grinding wheels in colors, materials made from and grits. If you want to get that technical then do a search for grinding wheels and be amazed. I am giving you very basics because if you step up to CBN wheels they are expensive and as I said you need a grinder to handle them but they are all the rave these days.

Now for sharpening systems, I have the ONe Way with various jigs and they are fine. But someone here showed a video for some turning thing and the guy was using a Roborest adjustable angle platform that fits in the oneway track and that will be my new way of sharpening tools. A platform is so quick and easy once you have the tool set the way you like the cutting edge. Just adjust the angle needed and good to go. They do make the rest as a stand alone thing too without the jig rails. You can set it up for your grinder by putting on a platform of some sort. Here is a link I found that explains it.I will be purchasing this soon.

www.robohippy.net/robo-rest-product-review/

Much more to sharpening but those are my basic points for now.
 
Wish I could help but I have a lot to learn about sharpening so I am going to subscribe to this thread.
 
Bob; Everything JT said is good advice. If you are going to be turning a lot, get the best tools you can. The CBN wheels are great and do not wear out. Friable wheels need to be flattened as they wear.

The Wolverine system is a good one. I would look at this jig for any gouges.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/oneway-wolverine-vari-grind-2 You need a base and bar for this to work.

I would emphasize one thing JT said. Avoid hollow grind for skews. It makes them too "grabby".

I have used a belt or disk sander for skews. Use a very light touch for these so you don't cut into the belt/disk.

Cap'n Eddie Castelin has videos on YouTube and they are good. Check out the "Black Hawk" jig. You can make one of these on the cheap. (Welding needed?)

One general piece of advice is to look for a local woodturning group. AAW has chapters in Texas. Look for one local to you and join. They can give you hands-on experience that the internet cannot. Many of them will allow you to try out their setup to see what suites you.
https://www.woodturner.org/search/custom.asp?id=1509
 
Thanks John and Randy for responding. So my grinder is a 6". Buying another grinder right now may be a problem with Christmas coming on. I did buy a new wheel just for sharpening. It's the 80 grit below. I watched videos before choosing that one. Lol There are soo many methods of doing things, a person can get caught up paying hundreds of dollars following everyone's different procedures. Even the jig setups I'm looking at and the one suggested will set a person back over $100. I guess for now I need to figure out a way to support the one I have better and to make some sort of degree gauge on it. Supposedly the turning tools I bought are HSS M2 and should be able to handle sharpening. But I know I'm destroying my 1/4" spindle gouge because I just can't seem to get the right angle on it. I bought another one from woodturning store, a hurricane m2, and it will be in tomorrow. I'm gonna check the degree with the new one and see if I can fix it. Thanks for the help y'all. Btw Randy, this is oilfield country. No woodturners or chapters out here. Lol I've attached the 80 grit wheel I'm using.
 

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bsshog40 said:
Thanks John and Randy for responding. So my grinder is a 6". Buying another grinder right now may be a problem with Christmas coming on. I did buy a new wheel just for sharpening. It's the 80 grit below. I watched videos before choosing that one. Lol There are soo many methods of doing things, a person can get caught up paying hundreds of dollars following everyone's different procedures. Even the jig setups I'm looking at and the one suggested will set a person back over $100. I guess for now I need to figure out a way to support the one I have better and to make some sort of degree gauge on it. Supposedly the turning tools I bought are HSS M2 and should be able to handle sharpening. But I know I'm destroying my 1/4" spindle gouge because I just can't seem to get the right angle on it. I bought another one from woodturning store, a hurricane m2, and it will be in tomorrow. I'm gonna check the degree with the new one and see if I can fix it. Thanks for the help y'all. Btw Randy, this is oilfield country. No woodturners or chapters out here. Lol I've attached the 80 grit wheel I'm using.
Click to expand...

The wheel will work fine. 80 grit is not bad. It is a fine grit. If my eyes read right it is a type "K" wheel which is good for high speed steel tools such as turning tools. There are many people that use a 6" grinders for sharpening tools and do very well. I just gave you ideas of basics because you said you were just getting into this. As I said there is alot more to the story but much can be found in videos on utube. Keeping the wheel dressed and flat is key as well as having a balanced wheel. Making sure there are no cracks in the wheel. Do not grind on the sides of the wheel and so on. Norton is a good brand. There are many homemade jigs used to sharpen all kinds of tools. Do a video search on utube and I am sure you will come up with something. Good luck.
 
I use 180 and 320 CBN 8 inch wheels from Dway and Ken Rizza (Dways are heavier, but Ken's a good too) One side has a robo rest (compatible with the one way system) and the other side a one way vari grind. I used use to use it all of the, but then I got very good with this: CBN Hand Hone - D-Way Tools and simply touch-up with the CBN hand-hone and trend honing oil (blue liquid). I do have the Trend pocket diamond card, but don't use it as much as the CBN hand hone.

If I have to re-shape (which I did from scratch) or just want to make the bevels more even and fresh, I will use the wheels. It just takes some practice. I was making it into learning to play the violin. I am a very frequent sharpener (using the hand home). I will sharpen each my tools 5 time per barrel. That's just how I do it. You will find what works best for you. I do have the non-CBN wheels, but never use them (I don't even remember why I bough them.

I would definatley defer to JT's knoweldge over mine. I also watched dozens of videos and "bothered" another dozen or so turners a bunch of times with my questions. Now, I realize is is not that hard.
 
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The wheel you bought will serve you well until you get more experienced and then you can upgrade as you like. Get the Wolverine sharpening system because you can move it to any grinder you want in the future. If you do upgrade you can relegate the 6" to lawnmower blade sharpening or as a "lender" to family or friends so they don't mess up your good stuff.
 
The advice already given is very good.

When I started turning 11 years ago I didn't have the money for a lot of tools so I used a 6" grinder with grey wheels and a home made Wolverine style jig. I made it from wood. A couple years later I upgraded to the slow speed grinder with AO wheels from Woodcraft and a real Wolverine system. Within the last year I upgraded again to CBN wheels with Wolverine system and also the Roborest platform from Robohippy that John mentions.

So now I have 2 setups. One is the CBN with Roborest and Wolverine. The other is my Woodcraft AO with Wolverine system. All my jigs are interchangeable between all the wheels.

CBN wheels are fantastic. So is the Roborest as the repeatability of angles is dead-on.

Bottom line is we all need to start with what we can afford. It took me many years to get where I am with my tools. I have upgraded many things over the years including lathes, gouges, dust collection and sharpening as money has allowed.

My best advice is to think it through before making a purchase.
 
What is the RPM rating? If it is 3450 rpm, you have to be careful for heating the metal. I had one but opted to get the Rikon low speed grinder on sale at Woodcraft.
 
That Norton wheel runs cool and a 6" wheel has a surface speed of 5419FPM @ 3450RPM. The 8" is 7225FPM @3450RPM and 3610FPM @ 1725RPM. So right in the middle. If the OP is using HSS tools a little blueing doesn't matter as HSS was developed to cut metal at near red hot temperatures. What is a problem for HSS is quenching it in cold water to cool it when grinding. It must be allowed to cool slowly because the shock of dipping it causes micro fractures in the metal and it won't hold an edge. Carbon steel like an old Stanley plane blade must be kept cool enough that it doesn't get discoloured ever. Dressing the wheels to keep them clean and sharp will reduce overheating. I use a piece of a diamond masonry saw blade to dress my grinding wheels. The one for the Wolverine is probably the easiest to use, just costs a lot more than a free diamond saw from a road crew.
 
Been using a high speed 6" grind for over 20 years to sharpen my turning tools with both 80 & 46K harness AO wheels. When this grinder dies will buy a 8" grinder and although don't need CBN wheels look like a good option. Guess once learn how to sharpen your tools RPM's don't really matter.
 
Thanks for all the help y'all! I see a lot of utube videos using the wolverine vari-grind kit. I will probably save up for that. My grinder is an old B&D, 1/2 hp, 6", 3500rpm. I will make sure I go slow with it until I can get an 8" variable one day.
 
You started off asking about the grinding jig and referencing the one in your post as unacceptable. I too looked at that one about a year ago and from most reviews that I could find, it was not acceptable.

There are two other grinding jigs just like that - that work fine:

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpening-T...pID=41XOkMxFehL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

and

Veritas® Basic Grinding Set - Lee Valley Tools

I have the one for the Savannah Pro and it works great. However, I did not put it together correctly the first time - something to do with the washer and it did very much as you said - didn't hold. After I double checked and corrected the washer, it has worked great. The LeeValley and Savannah Pro are a much better quality than the eBay version though. Not sure if the washer setting affects it or not.
 
leehljp said:
You started off asking about the grinding jig and referencing the one in your post as unacceptable. I too looked at that one about a year ago and from most reviews that I could find, it was not acceptable.

There are two other grinding jigs just like that - that work fine:

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpening-T...pID=41XOkMxFehL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

and

Veritas® Basic Grinding Set - Lee Valley Tools

I have the one for the Savannah Pro and it works great. However, I did not put it together correctly the first time - something to do with the washer and it did very much as you said - didn't hold. After I double checked and corrected the washer, it has worked great. The LeeValley and Savannah Pro are a much better quality than the eBay version though. Not sure if the washer setting affects it or not.
Click to expand...
Yea I took the locking handle off and put a lock washer behind it. It holds better but I feel like I'm gonna bust the thing as I have to tighten it so hard. Thanks for the response hank!

Bobby
 
When sharpening there should be almost no pressure being applied on the tool or the platform so I am surprised it is moving. Even a cheap platform shouldn't have any problems.

Are you pressing on the platform?
 
Slow speed grinder is a good recommendation, you can catch the Rikon on sale at woodcraft for $99 every once in a while---overheating your tools is something you definitely want to avoid--keep a container of water close at hand and dip your tool into water after every pass at the wheel on the grinder you have now--I also would recommend looking around on YouTube for tips on how to get your tool angles where you want--I think Cap'n Eddie has a vid where he makes a home-made Wolverine type jig--look for that

Good luck to you--stay persistent and you'll figure it out
 
JimB said:
When sharpening there should be almost no pressure being applied on the tool or the platform so I am surprised it is moving. Even a cheap platform shouldn't have any problems.

Are you pressing on the platform?
Click to expand...

It would move about a 1/2" as soon as I laid my tool on the rest. I have to tighten it down soo hard I feel like I'm going to break it. But is hasn't broke so now it doesn't move. And yes, I'm trying to get the knack of a smooth and quick grind. I hold the end down with my left hand and the handle with my right. But my right always wants to raise up while I turn. Gotta fix that. Lol
 
Fish30114 said:
Slow speed grinder is a good recommendation, you can catch the Rikon on sale at woodcraft for $99 every once in a while---overheating your tools is something you definitely want to avoid--keep a container of water close at hand and dip your tool into water after every pass at the wheel on the grinder you have now--I also would recommend looking around on YouTube for tips on how to get your tool angles where you want--I think Cap'n Eddie has a vid where he makes a home-made Wolverine type jig--look for that

Good luck to you--stay persistent and you'll figure it out
Click to expand...
Yea I watched his video and his homemade jig. There is still the question of the base also. I don't do too bad on my large roughing gouges or skews. I'm able to set the angle ok for those. Its that darn 1/4" spindle gouge that gets me. I finally got a better grind on it yesterday. Looks closer to original degree than what I've been doing and seemed to cut better. Before, I was getting a point instead of a cone and of course that's no good for cutting. Now I have a better cone but I know it still could use some improving. And it's not like you can buy these cheap to practice on. I did keep water handy and dipped after each grind. The hardest thing for me is getting the right angle and getting a decent sweep. I'll get there. Its all new to me. Lol
 
I got the Grizzly slow speed wet stone grinder, I'm not particularly happy with it. The wheel has a wobble (I think the arbor is not square), and the jig mount is not square to the wheel. It has gotten me by as-is, but I wish I went with the Rikon. One of these days I will attempt to get everything squared up, but it just feels like a hassle I shouldn't have... Given my very limited shop time, I might just switch to carbide for most of my turning.
 
For the 1/4" Spindle gouge you will probably find it it easier to sharpen using a vari grind with the Wolverine system than using a platform. That Spindle gouge is shaped similar to a fingernail bowl gouge and the vari grind will make it much easier.

That said, if you want the easiest way to sharpen it don't use the grinder at all. A small diamond credit card hone is all you need. I have 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" Spindle gouges and I hone all of them. It is also faster. I rarely put them on the grinder.
 
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