Segmented slimline

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Angela S

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This is a gift for my dad that I am having a real hard time not keeping.

the woods are a stabilizer and dyed cottonwood and bocote (i think). I used aluminum soda can for the thin lines.

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magpens

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Glorious !! . Papa will purr !!!

I like your eight equal length segmentations !!

Thanks for all the photos showing the steps to completion ... very helpful and interesting !!!
 

jttheclockman

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Looks good. If I can make a suggestion and get yourself some roof flashing. Most home centers carry it. The reason is because it is a shade thicker than soda cans and you will see the aluminum better. Still need to roughen it with sandpaper but you do not have to worry about the painted cans and that stuff showing through iof you do not strip it. Love the segmenting though. keep it up.
 

howsitwork

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John and Angela,

I am thinking about trying out litho plate , which is thin aluminium plate used by magazine makers and then discarded. It's great for making router templates as easy to score and cut. I think it's still called litho plate in the US if I recall correctly from my RC aircraft modelling days?
I'll let you know if it works oh and I'll measure the thickness and post it here so you can compare with the roof stuff John.
 

howsitwork

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Litho plate is 0.28mm or 12 thou thick.

I ve just clamped some of it to some Walnut with thick CA and am letting it cure this afternoon .
 

jttheclockman

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Man I use all sorts of thickness. Right now I am working on a couple blanks and one is using 1/16" thich aluminum and 3/32" dots. Another is using 1/ 32" aluminum. Have used 1/8" aluminum many times also. Have a blank made that I used 1/64" thick aluminum.
 

howsitwork

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John.

even with a freshly sanded, and wiped surface, the aluminium with CA can easily be de laminated ! One end started to come free despite care being taken. I have re stuck it with thin CA. I was using thick to give me more open time to get stuff positioned and then, as it was moving about clamped it. I may have been a little too liberal with the CA as the squeeze out when gently clamped was "Generous ". Had I not noticed and put cardboard between it and the flat bench I might have had a VERY thick blank ! about 3 foot thick incorporating a toolbox and vice to be exact šŸ˜³
 

howsitwork

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Sorry there was to be a question - best adhesive for use for aluminium to wood bond? I considered araldyte which is my normal go to for tube bonding but thought from comments that CA seems to be what was being used.

Blanks is currently laminated and curing ( firmly I hope ) with CA.

Playing at model engineering I have quite a few thicknesses of aluminium just never considered it before, the things you learn on this site save soo much time ( and create so many more questions ) .

thanks Ian
 

Angela S

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Looks good. If I can make a suggestion and get yourself some roof flashing. Most home centers carry it. The reason is because it is a shade thicker than soda cans and you will see the aluminum better. Still need to roughen it with sandpaper but you do not have to worry about the painted cans and that stuff showing through iof you do not strip it. Love the segmenting though. keep it up.

Thanks for the tip. The main reason I use soda cans is the abundance of which I already have them. The thinness of the can is the main issue I have with it, so it is good to know of other reasonable options.
 

Angela S

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Sorry there was to be a question - best adhesive for use for aluminium to wood bond? I considered araldyte which is my normal go to for tube bonding but thought from comments that CA seems to be what was being used.

Blanks is currently laminated and curing ( firmly I hope ) with CA.

Playing at model engineering I have quite a few thicknesses of aluminium just never considered it before, the things you learn on this site save soo much time ( and create so many more questions ) .

thanks Ian

I use CA glue to when I am segmenting with aluminum. I am not sure it is "the best", but I haven't had too many issues with it.
 

jttheclockman

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I do alot of segmenting with metals and aluminum is my favorite because it turns well with ordinary tools. Never had any luck with CA and stopped after this disaster. I glued up this entire blank and got back to it about 3 weeks later and just touched the segments and they fell right off. I never use CA again for segmenting dissimilar materials. I have preached many times here that my go to adhesive for segmenting work is Systems3 T88 epoxy glue. I will on occasion use the 15 minute stuff but all that does is drys a little quicker but with all epoxy glues it drys but does not cure for about 24 hours and that is where patients comes in. I always wait at least a day or even 2 days when gluing blanks. I have right now 12 pens on the bench in various stages of completion or experimentation. Hopefull by next week my back will allow me to get back in the shop to work a few of these. With using that epoxy I can easy tint the color I need also. CA drys hard and brittle. Epoxy will remain flexible which helps when drilling too.

I really need to go back and revisit this blank and finish my design with it. It was going to be special.
 

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howsitwork

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I do alot of segmenting with metals and aluminum is my favorite because it turns well with ordinary tools. Never had any luck with CA and stopped after this disaster. I glued up this entire blank and got back to it about 3 weeks later and just touched the segments and they fell right off. I never use CA again for segmenting dissimilar materials. I have preached many times here that my go to adhesive for segmenting work is Systems3 T88 epoxy glue. I will on occasion use the 15 minute stuff but all that does is drys a little quicker but with all epoxy glues it drys but does not cure for about 24 hours and that is where patients comes in. I always wait at least a day or even 2 days when gluing blanks. I have right now 12 pens on the bench in various stages of completion or experimentation. Hopefull by next week my back will allow me to get back in the shop to work a few of these. With using that epoxy I can easy tint the color I need also. CA drys hard and brittle. Epoxy will remain flexible which helps when drilling too.

I really need to go back and revisit this blank and finish my design with it. It was going to be special.

Hmm , thanks for that John

I think the uk equivalent will be Araldyte, which is one of my favourites. I always use the slow setting as it cure s to a more stable hard consistency. I use this for all pen tubes for that reason and , as you say, it can be tinted and gap fills if needed.
 

howsitwork

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I use CA glue to when I am segmenting with aluminum. I am not sure it is "the best", but I haven't had too many issues with it.
Thanks for the rapid reply. I was surprised when prying the paper scraps off the blank that the end started to come clear but the faces visible were smooth and totally uniformly CA coated. More CA and as the laminations will be held on both sides I am hoping all will be well šŸ¤ž
 

howsitwork

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Well having allowed the sandwich to cure overnight and detached it from the card protective layer it then planed well.

Surprisingly well, although the aluminium picked up on the sole of the plane to my surprise. I will try to take photos when I get back from a training course next weekend but walnut, mahogony and aluminium stripes works thus far. Next comes the chopsawing , sticking and drilling the blank. Any tips on best way to proceed on this From anyone??

I currently use either bullet point drills or lip and spur word drills but am concerned about splitting the blank. I should try the wrap it all in masking tape then soak that in CA approach to fortify it? Or string fortified with CA ?
 

jttheclockman

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I would love to be able to add a few more things but I am afraid you are losing me. I am confused so help me understand. I am going on the assumption you are making another blank as the first one shown here and you are doing the same type design. Also not sure of the tools at your disposal. The reason I am asking or at least sitting here cringinging is your use of tools. When you say the sole of your plane. Are you sing a wood plane to trim down the sandwich of woods and aluminum?? Yes aluminum is soft but it will dull and nick HSS tools easily too. You have such a variety of hardness in materials there that planes would be the farthest thing from my mind to use to trim down blank. Another tool, chopsaw. Not the tool to cut multi layered material with. Now let me make this statement here because I know there are those chomping at the bit to refute what I am saying here and so be go for it.

Lip and spur bit. Not familiar with that term but sounds like a bradpoint bit. You do not want that. The bullet bits should work well but I always used standard twist machinist bits. If you have access to a belt sander I would use that to flatten you blanks. If access to a tablesaw I would use that to cut your blanks. To help aid in this I would use a sled of some sort with doublesided tape on both the bottom and back of the sled to lay your blank on it so it stays in place and if possible clamp the piec to the sled using toggle clamps. If you plan on doing alot of segmenting blanks I highly suggest you make your self some sleds to fit whatever tool you are going to cut with. Tablesaw or bandsaw would be my choice and never a chopsaw. Again these are my thoughts.

The reinforcement of the blank will depend on how you plan to drill this. I definitely would drill before you cut the blank into small segments. I can not make a suggestion here because I do not know how you plan on drilling. If you used epoxy for gluing I see no reason needed to reinforce the blank. Drilling procedure plays a huge role here too. Good luck.
 
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