segment advice needed

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nwcatman

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Sep 30, 2007
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298
Location
south texas
have started making segmented pens and am not happy with the smoothness of the blank surfaces being glued together. i have a small grizzly planer but it always cups or tears out small sections, no matter what method i use. cutting to size on my delta 14" bandsaw with a 1/4" 10 tpi blade works better but if i could get a smoother surface i would be a lot happier about it. THANKS
 
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Are you trying to glue straight sections together? When I glue straight sections together I do so straight from the table saw. I use a Forest WWII and for the most part it gives me a smooth enough cut.

I have had no success with glue ups from a band saw cut. Do you have a disc sander?
 
If you do not cut your segments with a table saw or miter saw, you will need to make the glue surfaces flat. Sanding is probably your best bet.
 
hi, i use TS with a plywood blade in it.and use a sled and clamps. I tried with BS not good for me,i tried MS not good for me,you have to do what feels good to you.. Carl
 
To each their own... It depends alot on your saw and blade - since I got my little 9" bandsaw and a good blade (14tpi I think) - I do all my segmenting right off the bandsaw. No sanding needed for me at all 95% of the time. My segmented slimline that I made for the bday bash had no sanding.
 
I cut with a BS and was have the same problem. So i bought a 4" faceplate cut the edges of a 7x7 square board and turned round got myself a 8 or 9" adhesive backed sandpaper 150 grit. I now use my lathe for sanding those small segments. I have a piece of 8 x 8 timber that i use for the table top. total cost under $20 dollars. verses 159 dollars for a commercial one. you can use a belt sander too.

hope this helps
bill daniels [8D]
 
Originally posted by VisExp

Are you trying to glue straight sections together? When I glue straight sections together I do so straight from the table saw. I use a Forest WWII and for the most part it gives me a smooth enough cut.

I have had no success with glue ups from a band saw cut. Do you have a disc sander?
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i do have a disc sander, an 8" one. will try that method. thanks
 
Originally posted by MLKWoodWorking

Our drum sander does a pretty fair job. We also use a Forrest WWII thin kerf blade and get great results.

Mike & Linda
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what blade size, the 3/32 or 1/8? the 30 or 40 tooth? if you use the 3/32 do you use the blade stiffener? thanks and sorry for all the questions.
 
just ordered the blade and stabilizer. cost more than the crappy sears low end saw it is going on. for real. some day i'll learn not to buy cheap tools. thanks for the help everyone.
 
How about using a spindle sander with a simple straight edge fixture so that it acts as a jointer to get the edges smooth? I've cut thin veneer on my bandsaw, and that works well - except the edges alway need sanding. I'm thinking an oscillating spindle sander (bench-top model) with a makeshift fence would do the trick and save me a lot of time. The fence could be simply a straight piece of 2x4 hardwood with a hole cut out overlapping the edge of the fence so the edge of the spindle is just barely exposed.
 
Ive tried the oscillating spindle sander that John mentions and it worked great. Kind of a poor man's drum sander for smaller items. Just cut a little thicker than needed on the bandsaw and adjust a hardwood fence a little at a time, that is clamped to the table of the spindle sander, until the correct thickness is obtained. Just make sure your pieces are about 6" long so you can push/pull past the drum without getting a manicure.
:)
 
Tom,

thanks for the encouraging reply. I think I'll need to get that OSS sometime soon. I'm looking at the Jet bench-top model. My local WoodCraft has it, Amazon too. The thing I like about this model is that you can get a 3" spindle to go with it. A larger spindle might come in handy at times.
 
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