Seam Ripper

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coach

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Falls City, Texas, USA.
One of my athlete's mother wants me to turn her a seam ripper. She had seen some wooden versions at sewing show. Do any of you know how to do this or if there are kits for this? I only have to turn the handle, then use a cheap version of one taken apart and put it all together.
 
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I only have to turn the handle, then use a cheap version of one taken apart and put it all together.
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I don't recall ever seeing a kit for something like this but your idea of buying one and taking it apart and making a new handle seems like the way to go .
 
IINM doesn't a seam ripper have a handle similar to a crochet hook.I know htere are shorter versions, but I remember stealing my moms to fringe my jeans when it was in vogue.
Woodturning and design did a laminated crochet hook this past summer.
I think it was in the second issue.
 
[Coach,
I think the latest version of Woodtujrning Design has an article on lace bobbins. I think that would be close to what you need for the seam ripper....just drill a small hole and glue in the ripper mecanism. I'll find it tonight and get back with you. You might google turning lace bobbins or jkust lace bobbins and see what happens.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
Coach,

Go to any sowing store and purchase a 4 pack of the cheep plastic handled metal tipped rippers.

Take a soldering iron or lighter and heat the metal so it comes loose from the plastic.

Use your pen blank vise to drill the hole centered to put the ripper in.

Turn the handle to any design you like then epoxy the ripper in. (just the metal toss the plastic.

If it came with a cap, remember to leave a tennon on the end to have the cap clip on to.
 
Coach,
I've done a hundred or so seam rippers. They sell well at craft fairs. I usually charge $5 to $9. And they're easy to make.

Go to Walmart and buy the blue handled seam ripper, I think it's 59 cents. The metal piece is just a press fit and easily removed from the handle. All of the red handled ones I have tried had the metal glued into the plastic handle and it was difficult to remove it.

Turn the handle 2 or 3 or 4 inches long, drill a hole to match the metal blade, and press fit the blade. If it's loose, use CA glue.

If you want to sharpen the seam ripper, strop it with a leather shoe string.

Happy turning,
txbob
 
Can you turn those handles with a mandrel? I don't have a chuck yet. Might give me a reason to get one. If you use a chuck, is it one of those that are several hundred dollars?
 
Coach,
I turn them with a scroll chuck, because I have one, and because that's an easy way to drill the hole and keep it parallel to the axis of the handle.

Doug's right, there's no reason they can't be turned between centers and the hole drilled on a drill press. Might even be faster that way. Finish on the lathe just like you would finish a pen.

Happy turning,
txbob
 
Great idea, Coach!! And thanks guy for some of the tips! I think I will go to WalMart today and get some seam rippers to make for next Xmas!! Wife and her sewing group will go nuts! Post pix if anyone makes some. Kirk[8D]
 
Here's an old picture I found of a few seam rippers. Sorry the photo isn't any better, but I can't take a new one because the seam rippers were sold long ago.

20053112275_SEAMRIPPERS.jpg
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Happy turning,
txbob
 
Thanks for the info bob! I will have to look into a scroll chuck. I have only turned pens, so it will be uncharted territory for me. Are they easy to figure out? Easy to use? Not too expensive? (I hope) Thanks again.
 
Originally posted by coach
<br />Thanks for the info bob! I will have to look into a scroll chuck. I have only turned pens, so it will be uncharted territory for me. Are they easy to figure out? Easy to use? Not too expensive? (I hope) Thanks again.
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They're easy to use. I have a Oneway 4 jaw chuck with small jaws, costs around $150. There's a Talon chuck in the $100 price range, and I think Nova has a similar one. PSI sells some small 4 jaw chucks for around $50, don't know how good they are. I have one but have never used it. Can anybody else comment on the PSI low cost chucks?

Be sure to get 4 jaws, not 3, and self-centering jaws, not independently adjustable. And jaws that will clamp something as small as 3/8" outside diameter, or thereabouts.

By far the most accurate way to drill pen blanks is to have the wood spinning in a scroll chuck and the drill stationary in a Jacobs chuck in the tail stock. For a big hole in a small blank I always drill on the lathe. That's also how I drill the hole in a seam ripper handle.

Scroll chucks aren't just for turning bowls. With the right jaws they are very handy for all kinds of spindle turning. They're also a nice way to turn wine bottle stoppers.

Have a great weekend,
txbob in Marble Falls, TX, with sunny skies and 81 deg this afternoon.
 
Grizzly has some relatively inexpensive ones as well. Look at this page of their catalog: http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2005/main/096.cfm?
One difference in chucks is how you tighten them. Some of them use 2 levers you insert in holes in the edge of the chuck and twist in opposite directions. Others use a single key that you turn to tighten. Grizzly has both kinds on that page. In general the cheaper chucks use the 2 levers. I have the H6264 single key model - I thought the two levers might looked a bit cumbersome, but I admit to never actually trying one. Anyway, I'm pretty happy with it, though I would like a wider selection of jaws. I'm wondering if there's any chance that they may have made the thing such that it might use the same jaws as another brand like Nova or Talon.
 
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