Scroll Saw Opinions

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I am looking at scroll saws. Not the Dewalt 780 series due to the cost. I am looking in the under $250 price range.

Can any of you please point me in the right direction and suggest what I might need to watch out for? This is my first so I don't need a prof one.

Thanks in Advance
 
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Actuallly, you need the best one you can buy.

I have a 2 generation old Delta that is absolutely terrific. Watch the Craigslist ads and find a kick-butt one for the money you have. You won't regret it.
 
Allan,

I started with a Craftsman 16" scroll saw. It lasted me about 5 years and I was happy with it, and the price at $100. I think they are a little more expensive now, but definitely in your price range. I'm not recommending this one, just saying it was a good starter saw for me. Once I found that I liked scrolling, I upgraded to a Delta. There are several other good deals out there.

Some things to look for:
Make sure it takes pinless blades.
Table that tilts at least one direction.
Multiple or variable speeds.
A heavy-duty stand (in my opinion it's a must).

Don't forget to look on Craigslist. Some folks have gotten great deals on very good saws for less than you want to pay. If you want a new one, also search Amazon for great deals and sometimes free shipping.

Hope this helps. I'm sure others will chime in.
 
I currently own a very low end scroll saw, and will probably upgrade when the right deal on a used one comes along. My needs are probably similar to Allan's: I do some scroll work related to designs in pen making. Can you with experience and informed opinion please explain WHY to go for "pinless" blade capability. What is significant about that feature?
Steve
 
Watch the Craigs List and the local classifieds, there is a strong love hate relationship between people that buy scroll saws and the saw. I have seen almost new ones go for less than a $100, and have seen a Hegner go for $300. The bargains don't come up often, but when then do you have to be ready or they are gone.
 
SteveG said:
I currently own a very low end scroll saw, and will probably upgrade when the right deal on a used one comes along. My needs are probably similar to Allan's: I do some scroll work related to designs in pen making. Can you with experience and informed opinion please explain WHY to go for "pinless" blade capability. What is significant about that feature?
Steve
Click to expand...

I believe it is so you can use smaller blades.

I have a DeWalt 780 and it is great I love the variable speed it is great for cutting plastic. I agree with every one else get the best you can afford the low end saws just don't cut it
 
SteveG said:
please explain WHY to go for "pinless" blade capability. What is significant about that feature?
Steve
Click to expand...

pin less blades are for doing fret type scroll work. You have the ability to cut smaller areas. if you use pinned blades you have to drill a larger hole to insert the blade
 
I have a Dewalt 780 and it is atleast 20 years old and I have cut thousands of xmas ornaments and scrollsaw pictures, I love it I wouldn't use anything else. Now I have a rbi hawk and would like to see it strapped to a rocket and shot to the moon.
 
I don't think you have to spend $500. What you do have to do is pay attention to what you are buying. You need a machine that is pinless only. Not pin, not pin and pinless with and adaptor, just only pinless. That's a big deal. Then you also need tension control and speed control. Those 3 things are what really really matter. If you lack any of that, you waste your money. I'd look for a used Dewalt, RBI, Excalibur or Hegner. Usually those have quick change blade holders too, a real bonus. I've been running an RBI G4 the last 10 yrs and love it. I have tried the Dewalt and hate that machine, but the Dewalt is a good machine and everyone that owns one likes it, so the fact that I do not is likely that it's bulky and I'm not used to it compared to what I already run. I use my saw at least a couple hours a day.
 
I've been scroll sawing for 10+ years. I have an RBI Hawk, 26" throat and I love it. It is one of the good high-end scroll saws. BUT, I started scroll sawing with an entry level Dremel just to find out if I liked this hobby and to help define what I thought was important to have. Though I really like my RBI, anything I can do with it I could do on the Dremel, except for the throat limitations (size of the piece you can spin around on the saw while you are cutting. I think its a matter of "learning the saw that you have and blade selection." So when I got some experience and had a better idea of what I wanted and needed... and I new that I really would continue with the hobby, I bought the saw that I really wanted.

I agree... pinless, variable speed, quick change are important. Also, good lighting on the work piece is important. Magnification is great... but thats an after market add-on. Depending on the type of scroll sawing you want to do, the length of the throat may also be a consideration. Blade selection is also very important. Though you can practice a little with the blades that come with the saw, I'd buy some high quality Olson blades. But the blade selection depends on what you are doing.... and I've done it all. So feel free to email me or start another thread to discuss blade selection based on what you want to do.

Also, the cheap Olson I bought I sold 5 years later for a decent price.
 
Well it looks like I need to hold off a bit then. Either look for a good used one or save up for a new one. Thank you one and all for the assistance. Oh my, decisions, decisions. It may be a late Christmas for me at this rate. LOL I think I have more research to do after all of your suggestions. My Fiancee will appreciate it though.
 
One of my woodworking magazines did a review on "reasonably priced" scroll saws (under $200, maybe under $250). They picked the Porter-Cable over all others, and there were maybe 6-8 reviewed. I'll dig up the details. I have a Ryobi, which I am not crazy about, but it was inexpensive and I was not sure how much scrolling I would do. They gave it an "OK" rating.
 
Now I need to look at (additionally) pinless and pinned conversions. Until today I did not know the conversions existed. I can see the pinless would take a smaller drill. Otherwise, why not use the conversion? Did I miss something here? Or have I just had too many pops for the evening......
 
If you have pins, you can't go through a very small hole. So then they have a conversion piece to make it pinless. Typically from what I've seen and experienced, the conversion piece simply hooks on to the machine like a pin blade, but now you have a double pivot point, so you crank on the tension extra hard. It's difficult to thread a pinless blade when it's in a converter and when the blade breaks the converter flies across the shop. The entire thing is just retarded. The person that ever came up with a pin blade should be shot.

I pretty much guarantee, if you buy any machine that uses pin blades in any way, you will not be happy with the machine, it will turn you off from scrolling, and therefore you just wasted a lot of money and time.
 
workinforwood said:
I don't think you have to spend $500. What you do have to do is pay attention to what you are buying. You need a machine that is pinless only. Not pin, not pin and pinless with and adaptor, just only pinless. That's a big deal. Then you also need tension control and speed control. Those 3 things are what really really matter. If you lack any of that, you waste your money. I'd look for a used Dewalt, RBI, Excalibur or Hegner. Usually those have quick change blade holders too, a real bonus. I've been running an RBI G4 the last 10 yrs and love it. I have tried the Dewalt and hate that machine, but the Dewalt is a good machine and everyone that owns one likes it, so the fact that I do not is likely that it's bulky and I'm not used to it compared to what I already run. I use my saw at least a couple hours a day.
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Why do you have to go and bring up Hegner. I have wanted one of those since the early 90's. There used to be an older gentleman that would demo these at New Years Stewart Antique show in Louisville. It is quite impressive, if you use the saw a lot. Otherwise it is way too expensive. The darn things were in the $500-$700 range when I was looking at them.
 
i just picked one up on craigs list for $50. the only concern on a scroll saw is dont get one that takes the pinned blades. flat blades only and cheap is ok.
 
I have a late model Craftsman 16" and I have a DeWalt 788. Wanna buy the Craftsman?? Seriously... the DeWalt is the way to go. Save your money and buy what you need or you will buy the cheapo AND the DeWalt... It will just take the time for you to realize that your cheapo won't do what the DeWalt can do as easy as it can do it.

The 788 is the mid-level scroll saw. It's not an Excelsior or a Hegner but it has server scrollers for a long time and done so with distinction.
:wink::wink::wink:
 
I admit that I never thought of a pawn shop. I could look at it up close and personal that way. I am convinced, pinless. All comments make sense to me to go that route. Magnification? At 60 and bifocals, I just thought that was a given!

I have not played around scrolling since I was about 12 and not sure how much I will actually do it, but my attitude is buy the best you can afford if low end "might not" work. It sounds like some options have been offered to get me out of the low end here at a reasonable cost. If I only use it a bit it would last the rest of my life it sounds. That is a good investment in my eyes.

Now blades, # of teeth and configuration should keep me busy learning and playing for quite a while. On that subject, do you need to grind the back side like a new band saw blade?
 
The Woodcraft in Cincinnati has the new Delta 20" scroll saw for $349...that's a pretty good price. Not sure if other stores are selling them at that price and it's a little out of your price range, but I just thought I'd let you know.

Woodcraft is pretty good about letting you try out their scroll saw before you buy.
 
I do not grind the back of a blade. I just put along, high tension, slow speed, let the blade cut, steer the material not the blade. No wax, no packing tape, no special tricks or gimicks needed, although if you are cutting really really small things, a zero clearance table is a smart way to go and easy to make yourself.
 
workinforwood said:
I do not grind the back of a blade. I just put along, high tension, slow speed, let the blade cut, steer the material not the blade. No wax, no packing tape, no special tricks or gimicks needed, although if you are cutting really really small things, a zero clearance table is a smart way to go and easy to make yourself.
Click to expand...

Huh. I've always done it because I was taught to do it. "Smoother turns" I was told. Not so?

I found it does make a difference on the band saw, but that's a different animal...
 
Not sure if my view from the UK helps or not as the models and pricing may be completely different but here goes.
I started with a cheapish but branded scroll saw and spent my first year replacing broken blades and being generally frustrated with it which I eventually discovered was done to twisting in some of the components.
I then went to a local wood turning club where by chance there was a Pro scroller demonstrating how to make toys and all sorts of other items. I got talking to him and found he was using a Hegner multicut Variable speed saw. His company had several of them and they were in use all day, every day and he swore by them.
I found one on ebay at a bargain price and I haven't looked back. It can tackle EVERYTHING I throw at it from the very finest of work to small scale ripping (with the correct blades). I know everyone has there favorites but I have found Olsen blades work best for me.
Its not the biggest of saws but it just keeps purring along and I cant imaging being without it now.
 
DurocShark said:
workinforwood said:
I do not grind the back of a blade. I just put along, high tension, slow speed, let the blade cut, steer the material not the blade. No wax, no packing tape, no special tricks or gimicks needed, although if you are cutting really really small things, a zero clearance table is a smart way to go and easy to make yourself.
Click to expand...

Huh. I've always done it because I was taught to do it. "Smoother turns" I was told. Not so?

I found it does make a difference on the band saw, but that's a different animal...
Click to expand...

I do not grind either. I was advised to, but when I first started I broke lots of blades quick, learning tension...speed letting the blade do the work instead of forcing it. So quickly stopped grinding them figuring whats the point if they break so soon. After learning what I was doing I went back to grinding and I couldnt tell a difference. I also dont use packing tape, wax, candle sticks or any of the other do-dads gimmicks people say you need.
 
Second looking in the pawn shops around. Craigslist has some screaming deals, but you have to look often and go NOW if it comes up.

I just got a DW788 in a pawnshop for $199.00. Most of them do layaway over a few to many weeks, so you could make regular payments on one of the good ones.

Alan
 
dogcatcher said:
Watch the Craigs List and the local classifieds, there is a strong love hate relationship between people that buy scroll saws and the saw. I have seen almost new ones go for less than a $100, and have seen a Hegner go for $300. The bargains don't come up often, but when then do you have to be ready or they are gone.
Click to expand...

A Friend of mine has a Hegner for sale. He wants $100 -- I'm going to call him tomorrow.
 
I bought the Hitachi scroll saw on sale a couple of years ago from lowes when they were switching over to porter cable and it is a good beginners scroll saw in my opinion. It has done everything I have tried to do on it and still runs like it does when I bought it. I have looked over the porter cable scroll saw at lowes that replaced this one and it is exactly the same. The only difference I could find was a different name and a different paint color on it. I would highly recommend it.
 
I have been looking at scroll saws as well and have found this thread very helpful. I just want to make sure I understand what everyone is saying.

As i see it there are 3 groups of saws:

Less than $200 -- Good beginner saws but lacking on power and abilities. Will get the job done with a bit of effort.

$300-$600 range -- Capable saws with good power and abilities. These would include the Excalibur 16 inch, Delta 40-690 20 inch, and the Dewalt 788 20 inch. This seems to be where most people are.

$600+ -- The Cadillac of scroll saws. Featuring the Excalibur 21 and 30 inch and may others. If these units can't do it, it can't be done.

Did I sum this up correctly?

I am considering the 3 units I listed in the mid range in the order I listed them. I don't want the under $200 unit as I will just kick myself later and maybe quit the whole segmented/scroll saw scene all together due to frustration.

Anyone have the 16 inch Excalibur? Is 16 inch too small to be useful? I mostly plan on using this for segmenting pens and other item I can turn on my Delta 46-460 lathe.

Thanks for the great forum
 
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