Scroll Saw Melting Acrylic

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Simplex

Member
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Aug 22, 2010
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155
Location
Mather, Ca
I bought a scroll saw not too long ago so that I could do more intricate/detailed cutting for the pens I am making. However, I am finding that the standard 3/4" x 3/4" acrylic blanks melt along the cut line making it difficult to separate the two pieces and as well as eliminating all hope of creating a flat surface when the cut is complete. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, what recommendations do you have to avoid the melting? Thanks everyone!
 
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i have this exact same issue. Unfortunately i dont have a solution for you cause I use my mitre saw to cut my blanks. I do need to be careful cause I lose more material this way. Hopefully some one here has a solution cause when I get my scroll saw back I would like to use it for my blanks again.
 
This is just somthing I read somewhere, scribe in the cut lines with a sharp tool put a drop of baby oil in the scribe lines. This is suposed to lube the blade and help carry away the saw dust.
Mark
 
works good for me to not use those types of acrylic blanks. Probably mostly acrylic acetate is what you are buying. PR blanks can be a real bugger too, as can off brand corian pieces. Slow down the speed of you saw, and that will help a little to reduce the melting. Some plastics cut real nice, and some just melt. Alumilite scrolls like a champ.
 
I have a Shopsmith bandsaw and have found that slowing the speed down will eliminate melting of acrylic and resin pen blanks.
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Dennis
Sacramento, CA
 
Thanks for all the advice. I will definately try the scoring plus baby oil. I have dropped the speed down to the minimum but the effect seems to be minimal (maybe the type of blade is a factor as well). I'll keep you posted on how it works...sounds like others would like to know as well.
 
I'm a long time scroller. First you need a variable speed saw set on it's slowest speed. Next place a single layer of clear packing tape on the top of your blank. Next cut with the largest crown tooth blade you can find.
If your saw is a two or three speed saw it won't slow down enough to cut plastics.
 
Wait, are we talking scroll saw or bandsaw? The oil works on scroll saw cuts. I don't know about a bandsaw. I've cut lots on a bandsaw and never had a problem, even with a tired blade.
 
Try a regular bar of soap to lubricate the blade. I have to soap the blades at work (boat builder) when cutting aluminum, or the blades will gum up and dull. Soap is cheap and it works.
 
The problem with a scroll saw is that it cuts in only one direction. The up stroke is just friction. I would suggest a different method of cutting. I also wouldn't want oil on my blade if I planned on cutting porous wood with it.
 
I use "shipping tape" over the top of the acrylic. That and the lowest speed on your scroll saw will help. Additionaly, the blade selection makes a BIG difference. Still acrylic acetate is still a bear to saw.

I've never tried or heard of baby oil, but I think I'll try it when scrolling PR. If nothing else, it will smell better!
 
I've had good results with the Flying Dutchman SR No 9 skip tooth reverse blades 8 tpi and a slow speed cutting ABS plastic . I had some 6 tpi blades like them and they worked great but I can't remember where I got them . They clear the kerf fast enough that the plastic don't fill the kerf and solidify but that was with 1/8" ABS , they should help with thicker plastics as well though . I've never tried the oil but it would help .
 
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