Scratches with CA

[BobRad]

I'm playing around with CA finish - the first few I did, I sanded to 400 and then applied CA and wet micro meshed followed by plastic polish and the results were very nice.

On some woods - redheart for example - I found that after I applied the CA, I could see scratches left by the 400, and then had to sand off the CA back to 320, then 400 and then 600 (I don't have and paper in stock past 400 except some wet/dry 600 emery) and do the CA again.

[I'm using thin CA only not CA and BLO]

I'm trying to get a reasonably good CA finish with cheaper pen kits - to keep the finished product cost down and reduce labor time.

 

[EBorraga]

I actually sand to 600 then MM to 12000 before I put the CA finish on. You are prob seeing the sanding marks left from the 400 grit.

 

[BobRad]

The "kit" from PSI I'm using says to sand to 400, then CA, then MM - but I've also seen instructions for CA/BLO finishes that match what you do and also ones only going to 600 before the CA and not using any MM

I'm confused

 

[mbroberg]

I sand to to 600. You might get away with only sanding to 400 as long as you are first sanding with the lath running at a low speed. Don't apply a lot of pressure while sanding, just enough to take off a small amount of material. Then stop the lathe and sand lengthwise all the way around the blank. Then wipe all the dust from the blank or give it a shot of compressed air to remove all of the dust. Then, repeat that process with each grit.

 

[Wood Butcher]

Like Mike said, "Then stop the lathe and sand lengthwise all the way around the blank. Then wipe all the dust from the blank..." That longitudinal sanding I do through the first 4 or 5 Micro Mesh grades as well; and the wiping off the dust is really important. This takes a little time but makes the finish great rather than really nice.

 

[tim self]

Just like adult diapers, "depends". Softer woods will require a lighter hand sanding and regardless of the finish, or instructions, MM is always a good idea before CA. I, on the other hand, sand to 600 and go to the buffing wheel. Diagonal buff, removes sawdust and minor scratches then back to apply CA.

 

[BobRad]

I do the lengthwise sanding up to 400 or 600, even though,as someone said, doing a few strokes by hand is kind of meaningless compared to spin sanding for 10 seconds. I clean off the dust while its turning with a fresh piece of paper towel and a vacuum pulling the micro dust away.

I may be pressing too hard with the paper.

 

[BobRad]

I might try that - I just got my buffing wheel (Beal system) back in operation - what "abrasive" do you use

In the past- I've only buffed non lathe items that had been soaked and dried overnight in polymerized linseed oil

Just like adult diapers, "depends". Softer woods will require a lighter hand sanding and regardless of the finish, or instructions, MM is always a good idea before CA. I, on the other hand, sand to 600 and go to the buffing wheel. Diagonal buff, removes sawdust and minor scratches then back to apply CA.

 

[bradh]

Another sanding tip is to keep the paper moving side to side. If you keep the paper still, a larger bit of grit on the paper will dig a deeper scratch with each turn. Keep the paper moving.
I also recommend everybody should read Russ's five rules of sanding. This article and Russ's pen turning articles should be Penturning-101 for everyone learning to turn:
http://www.woodturnerruss.com/FSOriginal2.html

 

[IPD_Mrs]

Sand to 600, them MM to 12000 before applying CA. Your CA becomes a clear finish over your wood. If what you put the CA on is not perfect, the CA will not make it perfect. Find some of Russ Fairfield's articles on sanding for a better understanding.

 

[Steve Busey]

I never use sandpaper on a blank. For my final cut, I have a skew with a curved edge that I lay flat on the toolrest, and "kiss" the blank lightly for a few passes. Running the finger over it tells me whether it needs another pass. Once that's done, I hit it with thin CA to "seal" it, then begin my finish coats of CA (10 thin; OR a couple thin and 2 or 3 medium coats). Then wetsand thru all MM grits, and finish with Blue Magic Metal Polishing Cream from my local auto parts store, applied full speed with a cotton cloth.

Curved edge skew: