Scratches on my burl pen blank

[YoYo]

Hi folks,
I just finished turning my burl pen blank and now in sanding process. I first used the sand paper from lowest grit to 600. Then, wet micro mesh from lowest to 12,000. I actually hesitate to use the wet MM because there is wood part. Anyway, there are scratches on it still. I have one step polish and I used it on the area, then used micro mesh sand it again, still didn't work. What should I do at this point? Also, how do I make this shinny that won't fade away?

Thank you .

 

[KMCloonan]

I would suggest going back to 220 grit, and sanding lengthwise to remove the radial scratches. From what I can see, it looks like you used a pretty coarse grit when you started your sanding, and that grit left deep radial scratches. When I sand, I try to not use grit any coarser than 220 grit. After a light sanding with the lathe on (with medium RPMs), I turn off the lathe and sand lengthwise along the blank to remove radial scratches. I do this with every grit, and with the micromesh pads.

 

[KMCloonan]

PS - With a hybrid blank, once you have sanded smooth, apply several coats of CA, to cover the resin and the wood before you start micromesh wet sanding.

 

[YoYo]

PS - With a hybrid blank, once you have sanded smooth, apply several coats of CA, to cover the resin and the wood before you start micromesh wet sanding.

I did the wet sanding before applying CA, do you think it damaged the blank?
Thank you.

 

[jttheclockman]

From the second photo, those still look like tool marks like chatter marks. May need to clean the whole thing up with a good sharp skew. really should be no need to start sanding with anything lower than 600 grit. If so you need to work on your tool work. If sanding a hybrid you need to be careful because acrylic and wood sand at different rates and you can cause ridges. Try to use a a small block of wood to snd as opposed to your fingers. It should sand evenly.

 

[KMCloonan]

I did the wet sanding before applying CA, do you think it damaged the blank?
Thank you.

No, a little water won't hurt, but you need to make sure it's completely dry before applying CA.

 

[egnald]

I don't think you damaged the blank by wet sanding but let it dry out completely before adding any kind of finish to it.

You have already received some very good advice about sanding. I usually don't even start as low as 220 but start with 320 or even 400 depending on how hard the material is.

What kind of finish are you planning to use to protect the exposed wood? If you are planning to use a drying oil or friction polish like Doctors Woodshop Pens Plus you can even wet sand with something like walnut oil instead of water. If you are planning on using CA then you should be OK with MicroMesh and water but only after you have removed the scratches and have applied the CA finish already.

Good luck, it looks like it is a very pretty blank.

Regards,
Dave

PS I totally agree with JT those look like tool chatter marks to me and not sanding scratches.

 

[Aces-High]

I did the wet sanding before applying CA, do you think it damaged the blank?
Thank you.

You should not wet sand before ca. Even stabilized wood can take on some moisture And ruining the ca finish. I agree with JT that these look like chatter marks or tear out And not from sanding.

 

[BULLWINKLE]

I would suggest going back to 220 grit, and sanding lengthwise (with lathe off) to remove the radial scratches. From what I can see, it looks like you used a pretty coarse grit when you started your sanding, and that grit left deep radial scratches. When I sand, I try to not use grit any coarser than 220 grit. After a light sanding with the lathe on (with medium RPMs), I turn off the lathe and sand lengthwise along the blank to remove radial scratches. I do this with every grit, and with the micromesh pads.

I agree with you 100% to sand lengthwise after each grit to remove radial scratches. When I finish the sanding process with Micro Mesh, I go over it with EEE to remove the smallest surface scratches. Works great. EEE is a bit pricey but a little bit goes a long way. I've used the same jar for years and still have a good bit left.

 

[jcm71]

I have found out that the longer you use a piece of sand paper or abranet, the more likely it is prone to leave scratches. Sand using light pressure with rapid left to right and back motions and let the sand paper do the work. Stop and inspect and sand laterally before proceeding to the next grit, cleaning the blank before you proceed. Overused sandpaper and excessive pressure are a killer. Don't be bashful on swapping out for a fresh piece of sandpaper, abranet. BTW, what are you sanding with? I discovered that those multi grit sandpaper "kits" were horrible. I now sand with abranet.

 

[wouldentu2?]

Lay your freshly sharpened skew on its side and use it like a scraper to remove those marks.

 

[AGold42]

I rub my hand down the blank once I'm sanding every now and again to take excess sanding dust off which will cause grooves as well. Also, I use finish grade sandpaper which is a lot finer than normal grit sandpaper. If you're afraid of going down too far on the blank maybe do a coat or two of normal CA glue, sand from 600 through your thousand grits, and then try going back and doing another 4 or 5 coats of thin and repeat. I also agree with those posted above to not be too precious with your sandpapers. Anything under 1000 is disposable. Continuing to use sandpaper after dust and finish starts building up only hurts more than it helps.

 

[jrista]

I would suggest going back to 220 grit, and sanding lengthwise to remove the radial scratches. From what I can see, it looks like you used a pretty coarse grit when you started your sanding, and that grit left deep radial scratches. When I sand, I try to not use grit any coarser than 220 grit. After a light sanding with the lathe on (with medium RPMs), I turn off the lathe and sand lengthwise along the blank to remove radial scratches. I do this with every grit, and with the micromesh pads.

I would most definitely NOT go back to 220. That will just make the problem worse. I'd start with a higher grit, and just work at it until the deeper scratches are gone. If the OP has the skill, maybe some skew work to clean up the scratche,s then start with a higher grit like 400 or 600 and work your way up. But going back to 220 would just introduce a ton of deeper scratches again on the parts of the blank that are already clean...

 

[KMCloonan]

I suggested 220 because the scratches looked to be caused by a more coarse grit. Higher grits would definitely work, but would take longer.

 

[plano_harry]

You don't wet sand wood until you have a finish on it. As others have said, stop the lathe between grits and sand longways. You should not move to a finer grit until you have taken out any rotary scratches. No need to go finer than 600 until you have a finish on it.

 

[jrista]

I suggested 220 because the scratches looked to be caused by a more coarse grit. Higher grits would definitely work, but would take longer.

It would take longer, but it would be far safer. I made the mistake early on in my penmaking, of using too low of grits. Going BACK to a low grit like that, after sanding with higher grits, usually just makes the deep scratch problem much worse. It is better to take the time, work out the deep scratches, with a higher grit, than to risk the introduction of so, so many more.

 

[YoYo]

I rub my hand down the blank once I'm sanding every now and again to take excess sanding dust off which will cause grooves as well. Also, I use finish grade sandpaper which is a lot finer than normal grit sandpaper. If you're afraid of going down too far on the blank maybe do a coat or two of normal CA glue, sand from 600 through your thousand grits, and then try going back and doing another 4 or 5 coats of thin and repeat. I also agree with those posted above to not be too precious with your sandpapers. Anything under 1000 is disposable. Continuing to use sandpaper after dust and finish starts building up only hurts more than it helps.

I find it hard to sand the blanks that are part of wood and part of acrylic. I just won't be able to get rid of the very fine scratches. I can see that when I put it under the light.

 

[YoYo]

I have found out that the longer you use a piece of sand paper or abranet, the more likely it is prone to leave scratches. Sand using light pressure with rapid left to right and back motions and let the sand paper do the work. Stop and inspect and sand laterally before proceeding to the next grit, cleaning the blank before you proceed. Overused sandpaper and excessive pressure are a killer. Don't be bashful on swapping out for a fresh piece of sandpaper, abranet. BTW, what are you sanding with? I discovered that those multi grit sandpaper "kits" were horrible. I now sand with abranet.

I first sand with 600 sand paper then wet micro mesh. I think sand paper is too rough on hybrid. I'm still learning and I've made some mistakes.

 

[BULLWINKLE]

I

I have found out that the longer you use a piece of sand paper or abranet, the more likely it is prone to leave scratches. Sand using light pressure with rapid left to right and back motions and let the sand paper do the work. Stop and inspect and sand laterally before proceeding to the next grit, cleaning the blank before you proceed. Overused sandpaper and excessive pressure are a killer. Don't be bashful on swapping out for a fresh piece of sandpaper, abranet. BTW, what are you sanding with? I discovered that those multi grit sandpaper "kits" were horrible. I now sand with abranet.

never tried Abrinet so I can't comment on it. I do agree that when your sanding material clogs change it. I cut small sections of my sandpaper to use. As for Micromesh, I rinse it with a little bit of dishwashing soap and rinse it thoroughly with water. Lay it flat until it's completely dry. Can be reused many times over.