Sanding paste or what?

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Woodchipper

Woodchipper

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
Messages
6,255
Location
Cleveland, TN
Just watched a YT video making DIY sanding paste. OK, is that better than wet sanding with MM? I noticed online that one can purchase medium or fine dental pumice? Toothpaste? I realize this a multiple question but asking for the experience of the members here. Thanks.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I'm sure there are bunches of various sanding and polishing pastes and liquids that are both commercially available as well as those homemade recipes. I have only used a few of them so I am far from an expert on any of this; however, I can explain those that I have used.

Some of the best polishing compound that I have used so far is Stadium Pen Blanks, Magic Juice Polishing Compound. It comes in six grits. After coarse sanding, I apply a single drop to a small paper towel square, rub it on the blank to coat with the lathe off, then turn the lathe on to about 3000 RPM and use the same paper towel square until it has essentially dried and buffed off. Proceed through the grits. The blank turns out ultra-glossy.

The pitfall I have with all liquid polishes is that any pinhole dimple or other tiny pore will catch the polish and will leave a white spot where the polish dries in the hole. And the spots seem virtually impossible to clean out.

Personally, my best success rate has been by wet sanding with MicroMesh pads. Sometimes followed by buffing on a buffing wheel, but not very often. I do add about two drops of a wetting agent to my water for sanding. In my photography days it would have been a Kodak product called Photo-Flo, a combination of anionic and nonionic surfactants designed to dewet and prevent water spots on film. But at least for now I use Cascade Platinum Rinse Aid made for the dishwasher. Cascade is a nonionic surfactant which is a little less effective but is also less likely to form a soap scum in our hard water. Personally, I think the Cascade really helps extend the life of my MicroMesh pads by acting as a sanding lubricant.

For most non-CA finishes I use Doctor's Woodshop. I use Pen's Plus (DOC-108), but first I wet sand with paper using Walnut Oil (DOC-106) as a sanding lubricant, followed by the Pen's Plus and sometimes a top coat of Doctor's Woodshop Microcrystal Finish wax (DOC-110). Something I learned from YouTube videos of Mike Meredith, the Doctor from Doctor's Woodshop LLC.

Dave
 
Dave, thanks for sharing your experience here. The third sentence is a "caution" sign that could rise up and bite you.
I use a "wetting" agent with glycerine and water to thin craft paints for air brushing.
 
egnald said:
I'm sure there are bunches of various sanding and polishing pastes and liquids that are both commercially available as well as those homemade recipes. I have only used a few of them so I am far from an expert on any of this; however, I can explain those that I have used.

Some of the best polishing compound that I have used so far is Stadium Pen Blanks, Magic Juice Polishing Compound. It comes in six grits. After coarse sanding, I apply a single drop to a small paper towel square, rub it on the blank to coat with the lathe off, then turn the lathe on to about 3000 RPM and use the same paper towel square until it has essentially dried and buffed off. Proceed through the grits. The blank turns out ultra-glossy.

The pitfall I have with all liquid polishes is that any pinhole dimple or other tiny pore will catch the polish and will leave a white spot where the polish dries in the hole. And the spots seem virtually impossible to clean out.

Personally, my best success rate has been by wet sanding with MicroMesh pads. Sometimes followed by buffing on a buffing wheel, but not very often. I do add about two drops of a wetting agent to my water for sanding. In my photography days it would have been a Kodak product called Photo-Flo, a combination of anionic and nonionic surfactants designed to dewet and prevent water spots on film. But at least for now I use Cascade Platinum Rinse Aid made for the dishwasher. Cascade is a nonionic surfactant which is a little less effective but is also less likely to form a soap scum in our hard water. Personally, I think the Cascade really helps extend the life of my MicroMesh pads by acting as a sanding lubricant.

For most non-CA finishes I use Doctor's Woodshop. I use Pen's Plus (DOC-108), but first I wet sand with paper using Walnut Oil (DOC-106) as a sanding lubricant, followed by the Pen's Plus and sometimes a top coat of Doctor's Woodshop Microcrystal Finish wax (DOC-110). Something I learned from YouTube videos of Mike Meredith, the Doctor from Doctor's Woodshop LLC.

Dave
Click to expand...
Wow, that was a mental flash back for me - Kodak Photo-Flo! I spent many years in darkrooms both as a hobby and business and never once thought of the relationship with that and my current pen turning - but you are right! I have been using a 1 qt spray bottle with tap water and a couple drops of Dawn dishwashing detergent in it as a lubricant for sanding with both MicroMesh and Zona paper. It works pretty well. Our water here is pretty soft, so I don't know how effective it would be with harder water, but I think a couple more drops would compensate for the hardness. Way cheaper that Photo-Flo!!! lol.

Due to sever nut allergies in my family, I stay away from anything walnut based. Some say I am silly, but I don't want to be the source of anyone's allergy reaction, so I pick things with either mineral spirits or other similar carrier's for my finishes and waxes.
 
I don't have a lot to share on the subject, but even baking soda will polish. In fact, "sand" blasting with baking soda polishes many things quite well, but it would be pretty messy for pens. I wonder if anyone here has tried mixing it into any kind of homemade paste? To me, what you use really depends on the material you are polishing. I have not used it, but I noticed that PSI started selling Yorkshire Grit. There are some that like to use that. I'm happy with just using Zona paper, with occasional use of a buffing wheel.

I have to echo what Dave said about the white spots in little pores. It's not uncommon in wood pores, even when you think that you have them filled in well. I've had that happen with some "plastic" blanks. If there were any tiny bubbles in them that you didn't notice before you polish, you will see them after any sanding/polishing slurry gets in them and dries up.
 
I mix one cup of shredded beeswax with one bottle of mineral oil. I have found that a crockpot is the best for melting the beeswax, I pour the oil in and let it heat up and then pour in the beeswax. Be sure that you use low heat on the crockpot as to not get a flash burn. Once the wax completely melts stir it up good and let it cool for a few minutes then place it whatever containers you want to use. As it cools it will make a nice paste.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom