Sanding discs for bowls

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If I start with 80g to get some of the pickout, out I use a firm back mandrel like a roll and lock and when I goto the 120g I use a cushion back mandrel in 3" or 2". If the bowl is big enough you can use and orbital sander as well.

Lin.
 
For those of you that turn bowls and sand with an electric drill while on the lathe, what type of sanding head and disc do you use?

Hi arjudy,

Yeah, the info that has been given to you so far is very good.
I can't help you much in regards to the type of electric sander you can get or should get, as the ones I use are GMC and not available where you are, but if you want to make your own padded disks, I can give an idea of what to do, as I've made all of mine and they work very well.

I have all the information on my web site under, http://timberssoul.webs.com/homemadesandingpads.htm but if you can't log in today, try tomorrow, as I have been just told by the Webs technical people that they are trying to correct a problem.

Good luck
Cheers
George
 
I've been using this.. but my finishes aren't coming out so good..
 

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I use my high speed Genevieve System from Woodcraft and couldn't be happier with the results. pricey - YES - but the time saved is amazing. Contours are a breeze to get silky smooth.

For polishing and such I use the Beall cloth balls with one type of wax per ball. Again my results are extremely pleasing.
 
I really new at creating bowls. I've done less than six total. I have been sanding on the lathe with just regular sandpaper and the lathe turned on medium speed. I start out with a course grit and move to a finer grit and even micro mesh.

Am I missing something here? A round disc and tool you connect to your drill. Why do that? I assume it cuts down on time? Is the lathe running when you use your drill?

Please help educate me.
 
Am I missing something here? A round disc and tool you connect to your drill. Why do that? I assume it cuts down on time? Is the lathe running when you use your drill?

Please help educate me.

Yes, power sand with the lathe running at a slow speed while using an electric drill with sanding discs. It greatly reduces the time needed for sanding. I also change the direction the lathe is turning with each successive grit. This helps to get a smoother surface and it is easier to see when all of the scratches from the previous grit have been removed.
 
On the walls of the bowls I have been using the flap wheels in a drill. 60, 120, and 240 then finish by hand 320. The bottom corner of the flap wheel can be broken down by sanding it on a disk grinder wheel to better follow the bottom curve of a bowl. For the bottom I use flat discs and pads. If you make your own most Army surplus stores carry 1, 2, and 3 inch velcro and a sleeping mat works for the pad.
Mark
 
The bottom corner of the flap wheel can be broken down by sanding it on a disk grinder wheel to better follow the bottom curve of a bowl.

I was just about to ask that.. I was picturing the wheel digging a groove
in the bottom of the bowl.. thanks!
 
HF drills are cheap and make good sanders.

The problem with any electric sander is that the dust will finish it sooner or later. So I opted to buy 3 HF drills on sale for less than $50 and I'm still going on the first one.

If you plan to do a significant number of bowls and power sand them, think about getting a pneumatic sander which is far cheaper in the long run.
 
HF drills are cheap and make good sanders.

The problem with any electric sander is that the dust will finish it sooner or later. So I opted to buy 3 HF drills on sale for less than $50 and I'm still going on the first one.

If you plan to do a significant number of bowls and power sand them, think about getting a pneumatic sander which is far cheaper in the long run.

I disagree with Justacord, one of the guys in our guild has been using the same drill for 10 yrs and it's still running strong. They need maintenance just like any other tool, gota blow them out once in a while.
Lin.
 
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