Sanding CA - here is one way

[mmayo]

Before you go crazy with your way, at least read first. If you have a preference- start a post of your own please and resist the temptation to hijack the thread. Rant ends here.

I just finished the pens shown below. They were sanded by 400 grit sandpaper after turning and rubbed with the three Scotch Brite pads shown below. You can see they have been used a bit. After cleaning with DNA and allowed to dry they received 4 coats of 5 cps thin CA and 8 coats of 50 cps CA. They were again sanded with the same four objects: 400 grit Norton 3X sandpaper and the three colors of Scotch Brite (red, gray and white). I then buff the blanks for a few seconds using Beale buffs #1 and #2. The pens as usual pleased me and will definitely sell.

I buy the generic pads from Amazon in the large sheets shown in the first photo and cut them to size. Easy peazy and dependable.

While my shop stocks many Norton sandpaper grits- only 400 grit touches pen bodies. (80 or 100 touches the brass tubes). Cutting boards and other shop projects require different grits for success.

 

[keithlong]

My pen finish is CA glue also.

 

[d_bondi]

I like the simplicity of it Mike, thanks for sharing.
I don't have the Beall system, so a clarification please, are #1 and #2, Tripoli and White Diamond?

 

[derekdd]

Hard to argue with the finished product.

 

[keithbyrd]

Before you go crazy with your way, at least read first. If you have a preference- start a post of your own please and resist the temptation to hijack the thread. Rant ends here.

I just finished the pens shown below. They were sanded by 400 grit sandpaper after turning and rubbed with the three Scotch Brite pads shown below. You can see they have been used a bit. After cleaning with DNA and allowed to dry they received 4 coats of 5 cps thin CA and 8 coats of 50 cps CA. They were again sanded with the same four objects: 400 grit Norton 3X sandpaper and the three colors of Scotch Brite (red, gray and white). I then buff the blanks for a few seconds using Beale buffs #1 and #2. The pens as usual pleased me and will definitely sell.

I buy the generic pads from Amazon in the large sheets shown in the first photo and cut them to size. Easy peazy and dependable.

While my shop stocks many Norton sandpaper grits- only 400 grit touches pen bodies. (80 or 100 touches the brass tubes). Cutting boards and other shop projects require different grits for success.

Thanks Mark - the pens look great. Your process is very similar to mine!

 

[mmayo]

I like the simplicity of it Mike, thanks for sharing.
I don't have the Beall system, so a clarification please, are #1 and #2, Tripoli and White Diamond?

Yes

 

[1080Wayne]

Sounds like a good process , and feasible for some larger turnings . Are you able to do several pens with each small piece , or do you treat them as a one time disposable ? Is there much dust generated in their use ?

 

[mmayo]

Sounds like a good process , and feasible for some larger turnings . Are you able to do several pens with each small piece , or do you treat them as a one time disposable ? Is there much dust generated in their use ?

They are used for small and larger turnings like stoppers. These Scotch Brite have sanded 20-30 pens each. Sandpaper poops out after 3-5 pens.

i have the dust collection running for all sanding though most occurs with the sandpaper. I don't need to sand very much as I don't use medium CA.

 

[d_bondi]

On the second pass, after the CA, do you do you do it dry or wet?

 

[hewunch]

super Results!
1. What do you use to apply CA?
2. Do you allow the CA to cure before final polish? If so, how long?
3. What was the approximate time between final polish and completed photo?

tia

 

[SabertoothBunny]

I learned to sand wood pens when I took my first turning class with scotch pads, it is effective. These days I only use scotch pads for polishing metal ferrules though but I use a set of 6 "grits" of scotch pads.

 

[woodwzrd]

Such a simple process with great results. Are you using the scotch brite pads with the lathe running or are you using them in a linier motion with the lathe stopped? Thank you for sharing.

 

[mmayo]

super Results!
1. What do you use to apply CA?
2. Do you allow the CA to cure before final polish? If so, how long?
3. What was the approximate time between final polish and completed photo?

tia

1. I apply CA with small pieces of Scott blue towel. I buy CA wholesale by the quart and don't worry. For a $150 pen CA costs are inconsequential to me.
2. I'd like to say a long time but when the last coat is applied I get ready to true up the ends with the Rick Herrell jig and fine sandpaper.
3. Photos are usually taken within a half hour. I clean up, put stuff away and head to the studio for photos.

 

[mmayo]

Such a simple process with great results. Are you using the scotch brite pads with the lathe running or are you using them in a linier motion with the lathe stopped? Thank you for sharing.

After turning I DRY sand with sandpaper and the Scotch Brite pads in a linear direction with the lathe off. I do use the hand wheel to rotate the blank. I then clean with DNA.

After the ends have been gently sanded flush, I remove dust and seal the ends with thin (5cps) CA. I sand DRY without water ever. I use TBC sanding bushings and quickly sand with the lathe spinning at 509 rpm. I said quickly like 5 seconds. I stop the lathe and sand back and forth quickly with 400 grit paper. I run through the three pads after that. Time to buff.

 

[mmayo]

On the second pass, after the CA, do you do you do it dry or wet?

Dry all day every day. My days of micromesh and water are gone forever.

 

[d_bondi]

Dry all day every day. My days of micromesh and water are gone forever.

Thanks Mark.
I have been using Zona Paper (6 instead of the 9 MM), but need to give your method a try.
I'm guessing that the grey and white pads replace the lower grits of MM and the Tripoli and White Diamond replace the higher grits.
Is the White Diamond the end? Do you use any king of plastic polish or even Renaissance Wax?

 

[mmayo]

Thanks Mark.
I have been using Zona Paper (6 instead of the 9 MM), but need to give your method a try.
I'm guessing that the grey and white pads replace the lower grits of MM and the Tripoli and White Diamond replace the higher grits.
Is the White Diamond the end? Do you use any king of plastic polish or even Renaissance Wax?

I tried both and though they look pretty good when hot off the lathe- in weeks they turn hazy. If a customer sees hazy they pass. You polish it and it looks good again then hazy. Mine stay glossy forever. I just sold a five year old one and the CA looked new.

My plastic polish is drying up and should be tossed. You have no idea how many things I tried and pitched. Oh well I learned each time.

 

[d_bondi]

I tried both and though they look pretty good when hot off the lathe- in weeks they turn hazy. If a customer sees hazy they pass. You polish it and it looks good again then hazy. Mine stay glossy forever. I just sold a five year old one and the CA looked new.

My plastic polish is drying up and should be tossed. You have no idea how many things I tried and pitched. Oh well I learned each time.

Sorry Mike, just to be sure I'm tracking... are you saying that you tried Plastic Polish and RWax and both looked good and then turned hazy weeks later?

 

[mmayo]

Sorry Mike, just to be sure I'm tracking... are you saying that you tried Plastic Polish and RWax and both looked good and then turned hazy weeks later?

Yes I tried them and no longer use either one. They look good spinning in the lathe and turn hazy later. It can be wiped off, but I've lost sales due to the haze.

 

[mmayo]

This is the size bottles (16 oz) I buy when shopping for CA. I then fill small ones while keeping the big bottles under refrigeration. It lasts for years though I go through CA pretty fast. It's far cheaper- enough so CA costs have become inconsequential.

I buy directly from E-Z Bond at wholesale prices.