Safest Finish on Dyed Wood?

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

PSNCO

Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2013
Messages
334
Location
Brooklyn Center, Minnesota
I have some dyed Maple burl blanks. A green one was laying on a table where a fountain drink was sweating and pooling water by it. The pool of water turned green.

I've never turned dyed wood and when turning wood blanks I only finish with Pens Plus. I've never used CA.

My concern is: Will a Pens Plus finish seal this blank once turned and sanded where I'd have no worries about green dye staining or is a CA finish a safer bet?

Mark
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I do not know what pen plus is. What is the ingredients??? Is it a poly or lacquer than yes. If it is a wax then no.
 
Depends on the dye, how it was applied, etc. There are lots of different kinds of dyes.

Pens plus is a shellac based finish and shellac finishes use alcohol. Alcohol soluble dyes will tend to run into the finish.
 
Perhaps you could wipe for 20 or 30 seconds the surface of the blank before turning with a paper towel with a few drops of a finish to see if the dye migrates onto the paper towel. Try several different finishes with different places on the paper towel.

If you know the source that dyed the blanks, inquire.
 
This really may not sound like a big deal

I have some dyed Maple burl blanks. A green one was laying on a table where a fountain drink was sweating and pooling water by it. The pool of water turned green.

I've never turned dyed wood and when turning wood blanks I only finish with Pens Plus. I've never used CA.

My concern is: Will a Pens Plus finish seal this blank once turned and sanded where I'd have no worries about green dye staining or is a CA finish a safer bet?

Mark

So when you start segmenting woods and the one of the woods has been dyed or stained and when you apply the finish the dye bleeds and ruins your whole project...

The truth is some companies that dye or stain wood understands how certain dyes and stains run or bleed when a clear finish is applied and they don't use dyes or stains that will bleed or run ..

My advise is to buy your stained or dyed woods from companies that have their $hit together ...that are professional and don't pull this crap on there customers ...
 
Dyed or stained woods that dont bleed

I use allot of veneers , my first question is will your veneers will bleed or the ink run .'

Same goes for decals and or stickers ( ask if they will bleed or run ) with the finish you plan on using .

Same goes with thread like for tying fishing rods , the thread I have used bleeds all over the place ........

personally I am not a stain or dye user..... I like natural wood colors .

But what are you going to do if a customer wants green in what you are making them ..

My point is it cannot bleed or run ......






You want clean sharp lines and edges ...

Really anyone who is dying or staining wood and selling it to customers and then the wood bleeds or runs would be out of business .
There are just to many people in the business to put up with that and there are to many products that will not bleed or run .
https://www.cuesmith.com/colored-veneers.html
Veneer
Cue Veneer

The only thing this guy does is professionally stabilize wood and his stuff doesn't bleed or run .
RARE Elm Burl - Pro Stabilized - Turned - AzBilliards.com
You guys don't have to deal with this...
I like having the option to use any finish I feel like ...
 
CA definitely! I often use Transtint to make the dye more vibrant. Then finish with CA. Use a thick (seal) coat of CA. If you want a matte instead of gloss surface, hit it with 0000 steel wool.
 
Back
Top Bottom