Ryobi Flooring Saw

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dogcatcher

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Has anyone ever tried to cut segments with a flooring saw like the Ryobi or Skilsaw flooring saw? https://youtu.be/jJa001-QvHQ

I watched a guy today lay some flooring, he had a similar rig, except it was homemade using a circular saw. The saw was mounted on 2 guides above the wood to be cut, like the Ryobi the saw moved over the wood as it cut. He marked the angles and used the toggle clamps to hold the flooring in place while he cut.

It was basically a moveable upside down mini table saw sliding over the wood, a reverse of a table saw slide. Like this one. https://youtu.be/Rii-N5V9GbA

This is my theory, 2 rails with the saw mounted above the cutting area. Square the saw to the starting edge and use premade angle jigs to align the cuts. The cost would be a quarter sheet of MDF, the 2 rails and sliding blocks, a circular saw, and miscellaneous hardware. Cost would be less tha a $100, it would take up a small space and make segmenting available to just about everyone.
 
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Why not just build a homemade table saw with a circular saw mounted underneath a table made of plywood?

Cut a few dadoes into the plywood and make a sliding table.
 
My circular saw, I use it for other things, would usually be detached. This jig would only be about 3" high, and 12" square, it will easily fit out of the way on a shelf when not in use. The blade would be controlled not by a switch, but my hand, keeping it out of the way. Converting the circular saw to a table saw would mean a 12"x12"x12" box, more space will be utilized. The sled for the table saw would take up almost as much space as the jig.

Last but most important, the sliding circular saw jig will take up less space when we travel. It will also be easier for me to load and unload. I am disabled, anything I have to move usually lands up on the seat of my walker going from the house to the car at both places.
 
It might. Right off, you would have to change/make a zero clearance insert to keep cut parts from zinging out somewhere in the shop and to make clean cuts.
Then you probably need a table/workbench to set it on.
Beyond that, it might work ok. I question the ability to get accurate angles on a consistent basis.
I have seen segments cut on much less, and the segmented turnings have come out great.
Can't beat a good sled on a table saw.
Gordon
 
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1. Zero clearance insert. The saw would be like a compound miter saw moving on a straight track. No insert can be made or needed.

2. Table, that is the least of the problems, I have plenty of room on my assembly workbench.

3. Using precut angles, like the Seg Easy set up. The difference between this and a table saw is the saw will do the moving. Mount the saw on rails like CNC routers use, that way it is always cutting constant in a line. Toggle clamps on both ends to hold the piece of wood being cut.

I understand the table saw, it is a case that physically I can no longer move it from the shelf to my work bench. This system is same, except the saw moves across the sled instead of the sled moving across the saw. The saw would be mounted to a similar set lie this. 8mm Linear Rail Shaft Optical Axis Guide Rod W/ Bearing Block Support 20/30/50cm | eBay
I figure 2 steel rods, one on each side with 2 nylon bearing supports on each to mount the saw on.
 
1. I am fairly sure the Ryobi model has been discontinued.

2. The flooring saw like that would be dangerous on small blanks beyond simple blank cutting from a board. Segmenting would be dangerous as the hold down clamps would be needed on both sides right next to the blade.

3. That does look good for making blanks out of whole boards though. . . a thought - since most blanks are 3/4 inch, what is the capacity of the flooring saws? most flooring is 1/2 inch thick or less.
 
Dogcatcher,

Take a look at the Ryobi 18V miter saw. I have one that I use for cutting my blanks to length and with a 60 tooth blade the cuts a smooth as glass. If you came up with a way to keep the thin pieces from falling through the base such as a small tube hooked to a shopvac or a piece of double sided tape sticking to the end of a dowel rod, then you should be able to cut segments with no problem.

The cost of the saw is $100.00 with another $15 or so for the 60 tooth blade and the whole saw only weighs 17 pounds.
 
Another way of doing the same would be with a track saw. One section of track with something like a Kreg guide or either the regular or mini Grizzly track saws (you'll have to look them up as they don't link right for me) should be enough. You only need to mount them to a shallow box to put the wood under.
 
eharri446 said:
Dogcatcher,

Take a look at the Ryobi 18V miter saw. I have one that I use for cutting my blanks to length and with a 60 tooth blade the cuts a smooth as glass. If you came up with a way to keep the thin pieces from falling through the base such as a small tube hooked to a shopvac or a piece of double sided tape sticking to the end of a dowel rod, then you should be able to cut segments with no problem.

The cost of the saw is $100.00 with another $15 or so for the 60 tooth blade and the whole saw only weighs 17 pounds.
Click to expand...

I tried the miter saw, even built the fancy table that sat on the miter saw using I believe info from Malcom Tibbits. It worked okay, but the safety factor, it was always looking like an accident waiting to happen, I have over 50 years of woodworking and all 10 fingers, I plan on keeping them.
 
Curly said:
Another way of doing the same would be with a track saw. One section of track with something like a Kreg guide or either the regular or mini Grizzly track saws (you'll have to look them up as they don't link right for me) should be enough. You only need to mount them to a shallow box to put the wood under.
Click to expand...

Having a track with the saw above the wood is what I am thinking about doing, Toggle clamps on both sides of the cut. Using premade angle guides and a secure saw track that is dead on.
 
eharri446 said:
Dogcatcher,

Take a look at the Ryobi 18V miter saw. I have one that I use for cutting my blanks to length and with a 60 tooth blade the cuts a smooth as glass. If you came up with a way to keep the thin pieces from falling through the base such as a small tube hooked to a shopvac or a piece of double sided tape sticking to the end of a dowel rod, then you should be able to cut segments with no problem.

The cost of the saw is $100.00 with another $15 or so for the 60 tooth blade and the whole saw only weighs 17 pounds.
Click to expand...

Well it would work for me since I don't cut all teh way thru the blank to keep things together.
 
I have the Skill flooring saw. It does not have clearance (looks like by design) for stock over 1/2_ inch thick.

Sounds like a project to reinvent the Radial Arm Saw.
 
KenV said:
I have the Skill flooring saw. It does not have clearance (looks like by design) for stock over 1/2_ inch thick.

Sounds like a project to reinvent the Radial Arm Saw.
Click to expand...

That is what I am going for, a radial arm saw that works backward. Instead of pulling it towards you, the circular saw will ride on rails going away from the operator. Not really planning on segmenting pen blanks. They will be more of the size of bottle stoppers and pepper mill size. 1.5 square is the size I am aiming at. I admire the ones that do pen blanks, but with my disabilities, physical and eyesight, I know better than to tackle the small stuff.
 
dogcatcher said:
KenV said:
I have the Skill flooring saw. It does not have clearance (looks like by design) for stock over 1/2_ inch thick.

Sounds like a project to reinvent the Radial Arm Saw.
Click to expand...

That is what I am going for, a radial arm saw that works backward. Instead of pulling it towards you, the circular saw will ride on rails going away from the operator. Not really planning on segmenting pen blanks. They will be more of the size of bottle stoppers and pepper mill size. 1.5 square is the size I am aiming at. I admire the ones that do pen blanks, but with my disabilities, physical and eyesight, I know better than to tackle the small stuff.
Click to expand...

The problem with it going backwards is that the blade of the saw is on the UPSWING and will lift the wood unless it is securely clamped down firmly.

A sliding miter saw is like a backwards radial arm saw with less reach. A 12 inch SCMS (or CSMS) will give you a cross cut of about 12 inches, but you need to look at the specific specs of each model. Good quality Compound SLIDING Miter Saws will run in the neighborhood of $400 and more, but some can be had cheaper.
 
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leehljp said:
The problem with it going backwards is that the blade of the saw is on the UPSWING and will lift the wood unless it is securely clamped down firmly.
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The blade will be in the correct rotation mode. The backward part I referred to is the saw will be pushed away from the operator, instead of like on a radial arm saw where the blade is pulled towards the operator.

In my opinion the hold down clamps you mentioned are a necessity, not an option. Toggle clamps are cheap compared to an emergency room visit trying hold those little pieces by hand.
 
dogcatcher you pretty much know what you want to do and achieve so likely will accomplish it.

I'll toss another idea at you to adapt and build to your need. There was a saw that was sold for construction work a couple three decades ago when miter saws were getting a toe hold on construction sites and before the sliders were out. I can't remember who made them, maybe someone else here does, Skill, Delta, etc., not any of the Japanese companies. It had a pair of guide tubes mounted on a protractor base with the circular type saw sliding between. It was big enough to cut 2 x 12s at an angle and had it's own built in folding stand. In use it was pushed through the wood as you want to do. Wood pick up wasn't a problem since it was for framing and trim lumber.
 
dogcatcher said:
Someone did a version that would work. https://www.facebook.com/makerspace1/videos/416932285718265/
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I made one just like that when I lived in Osaka, except I had mine mounted vertical and had a wide base support - to slide full size sheets of plywood and cut them down, similar to what you see in Home Depot or Lowes in their plywood dept.(Only I made mine before the internet.)

There are plans available for making them. All you would need to do is scale the overall size down.
 
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