Router right angle push block?
- Thread starter JRay8
- Start date
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RKB
Member
Wood dowels.
Charlie_W
Member
Some good double sided tape like woodcraft sells.
If you can turn a platter held by tape, it should hold your push block edge strip.
If you can turn a platter held by tape, it should hold your push block edge strip.
low_48
Member
I'd cut a shallow rabbet in the fence piece, then glue it on. Knock if off, true up the base, then glue on another one when you chew up the first one.
jttheclockman
Member
Yellow glue. Titebond is the best. Have some reservations about that type push block for a router. I am a bit confused on how you plan on using it.
Now you probably just have that bit in there for photo so having a bearing on it not big deal. But with a router you always want to run your piece past the bit. You do not want to back up a push block in fear of it grabbing and throwing it. I use the same type push blocks I use on a table saw if the piece warrants it. Other wise a push block like the one used on a jointer is only needed. You need to push downward on the material as well as push into the fence if using a fence.
I make this push sticks in all thicknesses and lengths and so easy to make I do them in bunches. When they get cut up I slice the bottom off and start again. It has a hook on the back to that pressure is put both downward and from the back. Finger holes are out of the way. Unless I am missing your intentions I would rethink that.
Now you probably just have that bit in there for photo so having a bearing on it not big deal. But with a router you always want to run your piece past the bit. You do not want to back up a push block in fear of it grabbing and throwing it. I use the same type push blocks I use on a table saw if the piece warrants it. Other wise a push block like the one used on a jointer is only needed. You need to push downward on the material as well as push into the fence if using a fence.
I make this push sticks in all thicknesses and lengths and so easy to make I do them in bunches. When they get cut up I slice the bottom off and start again. It has a hook on the back to that pressure is put both downward and from the back. Finger holes are out of the way. Unless I am missing your intentions I would rethink that.
JRay8
Member
John the idea is that it is square to the fence for cutting tenons and working on narrow end grain. It's more stable than a miter gauge and backs up the work to help with tear out. In the past I just used scrap plywood that I squared up. Just want something a little nicer with a handle that I don't have to create every time I need it.
jttheclockman
Member
Jim I am all about jigs too. Work safe. But in my eyes I do not see that as being useful but when you get it in operation take a photo and post so we all can see how you are using it. I would think every time you use it you need to replace the sacrificial piece. I truely am missing something. 
Found this one on the wood site so I guess it is something like yours. Good luck with it.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/meredithmakers/products/images/zoom/GR-00644.jpg
Found this one on the wood site so I guess it is something like yours. Good luck with it.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/meredithmakers/products/images/zoom/GR-00644.jpg
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eharri446
Member
MLCS and Rockler both offer a jig which is a sled with hold downs and a sacrificial plastic block that rides up against the fence. I have one for my router and it works great at keeping piece at a 90 degree angle to the fence and keeping the work piece firmly held down to the table.
jttheclockman
Member
By the way if i am doing tenons I am using a tablesaw with a tenoning jig. mny ways to do projects.