Ripping alternatives?

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Haynie

Member
Joined
May 20, 2011
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Location
Page Arizona
My bandsaw has about 4.5 inches of clearance and I have logs that are upwards of 8-10 inches. This does not include the trunk sections but that can be taken care of with a chainsaw.

I am looking for alternatives to rip the smaller logs down into planks and blanks. If I have to use the chainsaw I will but there is a lot of lost wood. I want as much usable lumber as I can get. I have already asked everyone I know who has a bandsaw and they have the same clearance issues. I am going to try a friend's table saw to see if that will work, but I am sure it will only work on those that are in the 5-8 inch range.

Any other thoughts?
 
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I wouldnt try that on a tablesaw. Without some way to hold it securely and prevent it from twisting there would be a very good chance you will get the log thrown back in your face. You could screw it to a couple pieces of 3/4 plywood to give solid footing but then you lose 3/4" cutting depth on each side and you would have the screw holes. Your best bet is go with the chainsaw and take a couple inches off each side then use your bandsaw.
 
There are other members in your area that must have larger bandsaws. I would contact some of them and ask for a hand. You may also want to talk to someone at your local wood working shop, they may be able to help you too.
 
I wouldnt try that on a tablesaw. Without some way to hold it securely and prevent it from twisting there would be a very good chance you will get the log thrown back in your face. You could screw it to a couple pieces of 3/4 plywood to give solid footing but then you lose 3/4" cutting depth on each side and you would have the screw holes. Your best bet is go with the chainsaw and take a couple inches off each side then use your bandsaw.

the tablesaw would certainly be risky... if it doesnt kick back theres a good chance it will jamb up and blow a breaker (or worse)

to avoid screw holes if you have a hand held electric planer you could plane a couple of flat sections on two sides... one to run on the bed of the saw and one against the fence... that would vastly improve stability and the safety of the whole operation... it would also vastly improve the odds of the cuts lining up when you flip the log to cut the other side... I've done this a few times and as a word of warning you will probably end up doing some serious abuse to the blade and it will likely need to be sharpened by the time you are finished...

one other thing to consider... if you cant quite get all the way through and you have a reciprocating saw, pick up a few long wood blades... it will breeze through the little strip in the middle and a couple passes through a thickness planer will take care of the bump :biggrin:

--Dave
 
Had not thought about a reciprocating saw.

My friend and I talked about a jig for the table saw but I am really hesitant because what you folks said. We talked about it. He swears it will be alright. Then again he is from Oklahoma :biggrin::rolleyes:
 
I've done that with my table saw, and I will say I will never do it again. I got it to work, but I was a nervous wreck the whole time, expecting it to kick back into my face. Not worth it in my opinion. I now have a friend with a LARGE band saw. I take it to him, and we enjoy a beer afterwards and talk about wood and stuff!
 
If you have a jointer, split the log with the chain saw, joint the now "open" face flat, then joint one edge at 90*. Once this is done, you can safely cut it on the table saw.
 
I know for a fact that there are member in Arizona that have larger bandsaws and are usually pretty friendly, give them a chance to see this thread before you do anything rash like use a tablesaw.
 
I tacked braces onto a log to cut with the table saw. Once. I took my time and did 1/8" passes to keep the blade heat down, but eventually it worked. I'm not in a hurry to do it again though, even with the legs tacked on it was a little hairy...
 
I am in a similar boat as my Shopsmith only has a 6" clearance. I use the Chainsaw to get it to that size and to shape anything larger. Its a pain but a $1k Bandsaw is so far out of budget I have to make due.
 
My bandsaw has about 4.5 inches of clearance and I have logs that are upwards of 8-10 inches. This does not include the trunk sections but that can be taken care of with a chainsaw.

I am looking for alternatives to rip the smaller logs down into planks and blanks. If I have to use the chainsaw I will but there is a lot of lost wood. I want as much usable lumber as I can get. I have already asked everyone I know who has a bandsaw and they have the same clearance issues. I am going to try a friend's table saw to see if that will work, but I am sure it will only work on those that are in the 5-8 inch range.

Any other thoughts?

If I understand correctly, you want to rip logs and not slice them, right...???, Slicing means that you would be cutting end grain circles (log diameter), ripping you would be cutting the log on its length and with the grain.

For slicing logs, unless you have a decent jig made up, the very first thing that will happen is the blade teeth get caught in the wood, rotating and twisting the log off you hand and, braking the blade or damage it so bad that is becomes unusable...!

With the bandsaw ripping, and while jigs can make the cuts a little straighter and a little easier, unless the bandsaw opening is not sufficient to rip the log through the middle (pith) and then work the 2 halves a lot easier, you either have to rip it with the bandsaw and you may just have enough hight on the bandsaw to rip the log halves then.

The starting of the log "squaring" is a lot safer and easier if you start by ripping the log in half, if you want to cut the 2 round edges of the log to get a flat surface to start with, I always prefer to use a sharp blade with not very "aggressive" teeth like the 1 or 2 TPI (in such small size bandsaw you have, they wouldn't be recommended, anyway...!) and the fence as a guide against the round edge to be removed first.

Never the other way around as you need to have something to hold on too, (push the log through the blade), so the bigger part of the log is on you right (well, unless you have the fence set up on the right of the bandsaw, which is uncommon...!)

If you feel a little "uncomfortable" or not experienced enough to do this, the next step is to set up everything the way I mention above but this time, and with the bandsaw turned off, you bring the correct side of the log against the fence and using the fence as a ruler get a pen/marker and make a long mark/line or one on each end of the log.

You now get a straight strip of wood 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 is normally enough, depending of the fence hight, and nail or screw it to the log, above the line/mark you just made, making sure that, what ever you are fastening/securing the wood strip to the log is not going to be caught by the blade, for that, a simple adjustment of the fence will create sufficient gap to cut the logs round edge and miss the metal...! It makes a lot of sense to make this strip of wood, twice as long as the log and securing with even lengths on both ends of the log.

As soon as you have one side of the log square, you can repeat the process for the nest edge or if the log is too irregular, try to mark a line manually on the side/edge you want to remove/cut and pushing the fence away, you simply guide manually the log on that line through the blade, and complete your log squaring (90°).

Now, a bandsaw with such small opening, has many other limitation also, the motor strength/torque to start with and the type of blades you can use on them. The whole bandsaw structure is not made for pushing very dense woods or logs of certain sizes, exactly the type of stuff you are trying to do so, I will strongly suggest that you find someone with a big(ger) bandsaw and with enough experience to rip this logs for you, at least to sizes that you can manage OK with what you've got at home.

It goes without saying that, whatever you decided to do on/with your bandsaw, please be careful, think to where your hands will need to go before you start the cut, and if you feel that is just too much of a risk for you to try something and back off of it, is a very good chance that you just voided a bad accident...!:wink:

Best of luck

Cheers
George
 
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This is what I use: :biggrin:
 

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My approach is a lot more on the crude (Budget friendly) side. I just use a splitter to bust the log in half when needed. Use the bandsaw to rip the half, then turn it so the flat part you just made is on the table and start cutting to thickness on the slabs you're making. And I prefer to use the cainsaw to cut the log into 12 inch sections at the largest to make life easier.
 
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