Recommendations re new drill press

[KeysSwede]

Hi all,

I'm setting up a new shop. I'm seeking recommendations for a multipurpose benchtop drill press with a maximum investment of $250. It's primary function will be drilling pen blanks. However, it will also be the drill press to be used for whatever else comes its way for a hobbiest and homeowner.

Thanks in advance

Swede

 

[wolf creek knives]

You might want to check out Grizzly.com. They have some in your price ranges although I can't speak to the quality. I think, but not sure, that Grizzly sells to Harbor Freight too so there's another option. Might want to check Craig's list or one of those type sites.

 

[KenB259]

I have a Shop Fox 1668, it's a little more than your budget, but they make one a little smaller 1667 model, that is about your budget. I cant speak about the 1667 , but the 1668 is very nice. I would buy another in a heartbeat. Now I'm not sure what you mean by "multipurpose drill press". The 1668 does have a oscillating feature that lets you use it as a spindle sander, so that would be multipurpose, but most don't have that feature. Honestly, I never use that feature though.

 

[monophoto]

I'm far from an expert, but if you are focused on pens, the one thing that you need to think about is 'throw' - that is, how much quill movement is available.

Every pen kit is different, but the simplest case is probably a Slimline where the starting length of the blanks will be about 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 ". Its not unusual for a small drill press to have only 2" of quill travel, which isn't enough to get through a blank in one pass. There are drill presses with more travel, but they will usually be the larger (and more expensive) free-standing (floor) models.

There are workarounds to address the problem of inadequate throw, but it can be disappointing to buy a shiny new drill press only to find that it won't do what you want it to do right out of the box.

Let me add a comment based on my experience - when I first bought a lathe and got into pen turning, I went out and bought a drill press for use in drilling pen blanks - a low-end bench-mounted press with 2" of quill travel. I found very quickly that drilling pen blanks on the lathe was better than drilling them using my drill press. That's the case even though my lathe also doesn't have enough quill throw to drill all the way through a blank in one pass. But having said that, I'm not sorry that I bought the drill press - it's a great tool to have. I use it frequently, but I just found that drilling pen blanks on the lathe was easier and more controllable than drilling them on the drill press.

 

[Old Hilly]

Well, I'm down here in Australia so I can't comment on prices up there where you are but I was looking at the same sort of drill press and there are 2 areas that need consideration:
First is the "quill travel", how far does the drill chuck go up and down? For convenience you need more than 2". That leaves out the bottom end of our market like Ryobi and Ozito and a few others down here.
Second is how does the adjustable work table raise and lower? On really basic presses you have to undo a locking lever and raise the table by hand (Ozito). On better machines (Ryobi) it is a rack and pinion arrangement where you wind a handle to raise/lower the table. This means that if your quill travel isn't enough to drill all the way through your blank you can at least just wind the table up an inch or so and keep drilling.
The difference between Ozito ($140) and Ryobi ($225) are chalk and cheese. You also need to consider "run-out" of the drill chuck, that is how true the chuck turns. You don't want a chuck that wobbles and your 7mm hole turns out to be closer to 8mm. And the Ozito from our national home hardware chain store Bunnings does just that. Cheap may not be cheerful. Paying just a few dollars more may get you a whole lot more enjoyment.
You can get around the Quill travel with spacer blocks under your work piece, drill the hole part way, raise the quill, put a packer under the workpiece, lower the quill and drill the rest of the hole but if you can get a drill with a 3" or more travel, life will be easier.

 

[Ted iin Michigan]

I've got a WEN benchtop which I got online (Amazon, I think). It replaced a Delta which I had for quite a while. Both are/were variable speed via a Reeves drive. I really like the idea of a no belt change variable speed and this guy is (was) in your price range. Other than paint and some minor features they're close to identical.
I just checked Amazon and there are several WEN models to choose from. Take a look at the 4210.

 

[leehljp]

As Louie mentioned above, the key component before looking at other aspects (that are also important) is the Quill Travel. The minimum in my opinion is 3 inches. You could get by with 2 1/2 but there will be blanks that will require you to loosen the bit, extend it out farther, re-set the table and drill more. That can get old fast. $250 is a good investment but if $250 does not allow you to do what you need on a regular basis, it hurts in the pocketbook, especially when $50 more will buy the 3" quill travel.

Another way around short quill travel is to drill on the lathe. The majority of my drilling for pen blanks is on the lathe, and there are a number of people here that use the lathe for drilling far more than using a DP. IF you need production, the DP is it. If you need accuracy over production, the lathe is the best choice (but it takes a little experience - that is not difficult to learn).

 

[Robert Taylor]

Multi-purpose variable speed drill press with almost four inches of quill travel. Think ShopSmith

 

[Jim Campbell]

I will chime in with a vote for the lathe. One of the best investment I made was a set of project jaws for the chuck. The project jaws allow me to center even off-square pieces of wood if I take my time.

The one caveat I have for the lathe is the runout from the tailstock. I will sometimes drill a pilot hole if I need to be really accurate. Having said that, the Delta benchtop drill press I have also has runout from the quill.

Overall I get much better results using the lathe for drilling.

 

[bsshog40]

I know it's a little higher than your budget, but I bought this Klutch from Northern tool a couple years ago and has done me very good.
Klutch Drill Press

 

[KeysSwede]

I should have mentioned that I drill with my lathe now. I agree with comments re accuracy. I'm just tired of changing chucks each time. I'm seeking efficiency at each step in the process.

Thanks for the feedback thus far.

Swede

 

[PreacherJon]

Checkout what Grizzly Industrial has to offer in that range.

 

[Lmstretch]

I agree with the comments of everyone above. It took me a while to understand that drilling pen blanks are best done on a lathe. With that said, a good drill press is needed in a shop. I bought a stand up drill press at Harbor freight for around $500, I went with the large one for the quill travel. If I knew what I know know, I would have waited and bought something like Jet, for the one I want it will be almost double the price, but in the long haul I think worth it.


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[dogcatcher]

I bought a Rikon, the biggest bench model at the time for my New Mexico shop. Almost 4" of quill travel, I am primarily a game call maker, I needed the quill travel for game calls. Price about 6 years ago was over you budget by at least a $100. For my use, worth every penny. At home I have an ancient floor model Delta that is a beast, When I start a batch of game calls, it runs for 2 or 3 hours non stop. I also have a cheap HF benchtop at home, it is for the none long quill travel needs. I alos use it with a milling machine table to "mill" wood, aluminum and plastics.

For pens, I drill on the lathe. Even if I quit making game calls tomorrow, I would still need and use the small drill press. Nut would keep them all.

 

[leehljp]

I should have mentioned that I drill with my lathe now. I agree with comments re accuracy. I'm just tired of changing chucks each time. I'm seeking efficiency at each step in the process.

Thanks for the feedback thus far.

Swede

If you are tired of changing chucks each time, and I can sure understand that, then you will get tired of the 2 step adjustments needed to drill a blank with 2" and even a 2 1/2" quill travel. Except for a good used DP or store floor model or discontinued model - It is going to be difficult to find a 3"Quill Travel DP new for $250. Two inch and 2 1/2" are going to leave you just as frustrated.

 

[monophoto]

We have to be careful here - its entirely too easy to say that there is only one tool can can be used to do a task, and often that tool is very expensive. Many of us (and perhaps most of us) live with the realities of a finite budget, so we are forced to learn how to use the tools we already have or can afford to buy. It is possible to drill blanks with a drill press that has only 2" of quill travel. You just have to do it the right way.

The WRONG way to do it is to drill part way, remove the blank from the drilling vise, reposition the blank in the vise, and then complete the hole. The reason for this is that it is very difficult/nearly impossible to get the blank properly aligned in the vise when you remount it such that the hole will be straight and true, and this approach just takes more time to do.

The RIGHT ways is to drill part way, slip a scrap of '1-by' lumber under the vise to elevate it 3/4", and then continue drilling. That is faster and far more accurate than the wrong way. And if a single scrap of '1-by' isn't enough, use two to get 1 1/2" of elevation. Note that you may need to leave the bit in the hole as you slip the '1-by' under the vise - that will be a little clumsy the first time you try it, but with a little practice you can do it very quickly.

That said, I still think drilling on the lathe is better even through lathes also have finite tailstock quill travel, and with some lathes, you have to be a bit more careful to make sure that the tailstock is aligned exactly on the axis of rotation of the headstock.

 

[TonyL]

The free standing porta cable would go on-sale in the high 200s. I own one. I used to drill solely on the lathe. However as long as my bits are sharp, I get the same results when drilling barrels. It has a 4in throw. I have been tempted to buy a $1500 one, but the one I have is fine,

 

[KeysSwede]

Thank you all for your thoughts and direction. I've been convinced to look for a drill press with a minimum of 3" quill travel. while I'm waiting for craigslist or sale to present the right opportunity I'm going to return to service my original jet 1015 lathe as a drill station. I was going to establish it as a finishing station in the new shop. However until the drill press materializes I think this makes sense. I'll also take the forum's advice to utilize the lathe to bore in critically sensitive situations.

Thanks again and if you know of a good DP sale let me know.

Swede

 

[MCCABER]

I drilled for years on my lathe, I recently purchased a Rikon bench top lathe with over 3 inches of travel. It is a bit over your budget, but highly recommend. Myself I saved for a while to purchase a good drill press which will serve me for many years, rather than purchasing a cheaper one, which you will want to replace.
Cheers Bob Mc6

 

[MyDadsPens]

I have had 6 or 8 drill presses over the years. Of the newer models, only the 10"+ bench top versions have enough quill travel (delta, craftsman, wen) all my 8" bench models had less than 2.25" travel. BUT I have had several older (1940s, 50s, 60s) presses and ALL of the older deltas (homecraft), Craftsman and Walker turners had at least 2.75" or even more travel. So I would look for some old $25 machines. You might even get lucky and find one with a $200 German chuck on it or an original jacobs. My experience has been that newer DPs have better on/off switches, enclosed belts, lights, and less rust . But older machines have better metal, more accurate, can be adjusted better. As for parts with older machines, other than delta dp14 bearings I think all other parts are easily available and cheap.
I think lathes are more accurate for drilling straight But I hate the idea of using my main lathe for drilling, not only is every minute of use, wear and tear on bearings and motors, But I just hate the constant switching of the chucks etc. Another possibility for you would be to buy a second lathe ($100 Harbor Freight or $50 tube craftsman to use as a permanent horizontal drill press). Although it is worth mentioning that a DP setup for lathes (MT chuck, blank chuck) is probably at least $80 for those 2 pieces. Also you need to be creative with ways to avoid tear-out in the lathe chuck

 

[leehljp]

I have had 6 or 8 drill presses over the years. Of the newer models, only the 10"+ bench top versions have enough quill travel (delta, craftsman, wen) all my 8" bench models had less than 2.25" travel. BUT I have had several older (1940s, 50s, 60s) presses and ALL of the older deltas (homecraft), Craftsman and Walker turners had at least 2.75" or even more travel. So I would look for some old $25 machines. You might even get lucky and find one with a $200 German chuck on it or an original jacobs. My experience has been that newer DPs have better on/off switches, enclosed belts, lights, and less rust . But older machines have better metal, more accurate, can be adjusted better. As for parts with older machines, other than delta dp14 bearings I think all other parts are easily available and cheap.
I think lathes are more accurate for drilling straight But I hate the idea of using my main lathe for drilling, not only is every minute of use, wear and tear on bearings and motors, But I just hate the constant switching of the chucks etc. Another possibility for you would be to buy a second lathe ($100 Harbor Freight or $50 tube craftsman to use as a permanent horizontal drill press). Although it is worth mentioning that a DP setup for lathes (MT chuck, blank chuck) is probably at least $80 for those 2 pieces. Also you need to be creative with ways to avoid tear-out in the lathe chuck

Some good information and thoughts in that.

I have all the extra stuff anyway and many here do also. IF someone doesn't have the chucks, fittings, etc, it is going to cost anyway to get a VERY good blank clamp to bring about the same accuracy that drilling on the lathe will.

I hate changing belts on the lathe for speed changes, so I changed motors and added a controller on my Rikon 12 inch lathe - and now get about 75RPM to 3000+. I have a Grizzly VS lathe also. Drill on one, turn on the other if needed in a hurry.

There is no single way around the cost of deep drilling unless one just happens upon a good drill press at the right price, or buys the items to drill on the lathe.

 

[PreacherJon]

I have all the extra stuff anyway and many here do also. IF someone doesn't have the chucks, fittings, etc, it is going to cost anyway to get a VERY good blank clamp to bring about the same accuracy that drilling on the lathe will.

Nah.... not expensive at all for a good clamp. And if need be... you can put a V channel in for good measure.

 

[leehljp]

Nah.... not expensive at all for a good clamp. And if need be... you can put a V channel in for good measure.

You made me laugh! You are right about that clamp for you and the experienced. But that is only for knowledgeable woodworkers or machine shop folks. I have seen too many blowouts and questions as to why - through the years. That clamp has too much surface area exposed directly to air around it for the inexperienced. Most blowouts in drilling (with the inexperienced) happen with V-channel clamps anyway.

 

[PreacherJon]

You made me laugh! You are right about that clamp for you and the experienced. But that is only for knowledgeable woodworkers or machine shop folks. I have seen too many blowouts and questions as to why - through the years. That clamp has too much surface area exposed directly to air around it for the inexperienced. Most blowouts in drilling (with the inexperienced) happen with V-channel clamps anyway.

I understand. My query is on blow outs... and how many you have. Makes me wonder on your technique... When drilling blanks. Do you go down a short way... then bring the bit back out to clear material? If you don't clear the hole... go down... come back out... go down and come back out... clearing as you go... the material bunches up and creating pressure... which is the cause of most blow outs.

 

[leehljp]

I understand. My query is on blow outs... and how many you have. Makes me wonder on your technique... When drilling blanks. Do you go down a short way... then bring the bit back out to clear material? If you don't clear the hole... go down... come back out... go down and come back out... clearing as you go... the material bunches up and creating pressure... which is the cause of most blow outs.

Preacher Jon, You may be misunderstanding something. I don't have blowouts, what I am addressing is the different reasons blowouts occur and how to prevent them. You apparently haven't read of the continuous blowouts that different ones, (most new turners) have over the years. My answer is to those inexperienced with blowouts and what causes them. There is no one single answer.

Clamping is only part of the problem for people having blowouts, and in some blank cases, clamping is impossible so wrapping with gauze and CAing the gauze keeps the integrity of the blank intact. These have to be drilled on the lathe. The type of clamp that others use is important also. There have been a couple of machinists here who have made blank clamps that were hugely better than commercially sold ones.

The thickness of the wood itself and the diameter of the drill bit also affect it. It isn't uncommon for someone to have a uniquely beautiful blank 3/4 in square and the pen kit requires a 1/2" bit. Simple clamping as you mentioned is a recipe for a blowout. Normal clamping as you mentioned on a 3/4" blank "might" work OK for a 3/8" bit.

 

[PreacherJon]

Sorry for my confusion.