Recommendation for Pen Buffing System

[Hartwell85]

What pen buffing system do IAP members use? I upgraded from a Carbatec lathe with #1 MT to a new lathe with #2 MT. I know there are more options for a lathe that has #2 MT so I want to make the best selection. Also like to know where you purchased your buffing system.

 

[dogcatcher]

I drilled and tapped a blank to fit the threads of my head stock. Then drilled and tapped the opposite end of the blank for a 1/2 inch bolt.

I use the buffing compounds and wheels recommended in this link.
https://www.penturners.org/threads/buffing-kicked-up-a-notch.55476/

I change out the buffing wheels as needed. Each wheel has a plastic bag for the wheel and compound. So they do not contaminate each other

 

[MPVic]

Years ago you could buy just the mounting hardware kit by itself from Beall (I don't see it there anymore) and I bought my own buffs and compound from CASWELL.

The Beall Tool Company

The other alternative is the Beall system complete from LEE VALLEY - hope this link works.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/polishing-and-buffing/46880-beall-lathe-mount-buffing-system?item=44Z2210

 

[wouldentu2?]

Mine is a two wheel system from PSI. It's a Barry Gross product works great and comes with everything you need to do the job. I never use it for bare wood so I can't speak to that.

 

[Woodchipper]

I drilled and tapped a blank to fit the threads of my head stock. Then drilled and tapped the opposite end of the blank for a 1/2 inch bolt.

I use the buffing compounds and wheels recommended in this link.
https://www.penturners.org/threads/buffing-kicked-up-a-notch.55476/

I change out the buffing wheels as needed. Each wheel has a plastic bag for the wheel and compound. So they do not contaminate each other

Interesting DIY. In reading the description, is the 1/2" bolt inletted to fit a 60 degree live center in the quill? I just might make one for myself. Would you have a photo?

 

[Aces-High]

Are you buffing just the wood, or are you looking to buff a pen that has a finish on it, like CA? The 3 wheel system would work for just buffing wood, or and oil finish that has cured, but for buffing a ca finish or acrylic pen I would recommend the 2 wheel acrylic buffing system that has the blue buffing compound.

 

[dogcatcher]

What is the best buffing system for a CA finish

I am looking at purchasing a buffing system to enhance the finish on pens I have turned and applied a CA finish. I know there are several systems on the market, but I am looking for recommendations. Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app

www.penturners.org

 

[Hartwell85]

Are you buffing just the wood, or are you looking to buff a pen that has a finish on it, like CA? The 3 wheel system would work for just buffing wood, or and oil finish that has cured, but for buffing a ca finish or acrylic pen I would recommend the 2 wheel acrylic buffing system that has the blue buffing compound.

I was looking to buff a CA finish on wood or acrylic blanks. Looks like other recommendations favor the 2 wheel system with blue buffing compound.

 

[egnald]

I guess I am spoiled. I bought the PSI lathe mounted buffing system, the two-wheel system designed by Barry Gross, that comes with the blue buffing compound. But, I am just too impatient about changing my lathe between buffing and turning, so I bought a stand-alone Rikon Low Speed Long Shaft buffer for my shop.

It came with 8-inch by 1/2-inch wheels. The buffer runs at 1750 RPM which calculates to about 3600 SFPM (Surface Feet/Feed Per Minute) on the 8-inch wheels.

Since the PSI/Barry Gross system uses 4-inch wheels with a recommended top lathe speed of 1700 RPM, the easy solution would be to use 4-inch wheels on the 1750 RPM buffer; however, I found the choices for 4-inch wheels to be quite limited versus larger diameters. So I settled on 6-inch by 1-inch wheels which run around 2750 SFPM. So far it has been working very well for me even with running 1000 SFPM faster.

I use two wheels, the first is a tightly sewn cotton on which I apply the PSI blue compound. The second wheel is a loosely sewn flannel that I use as a final buff.

So far this arrangement has been working very well for me on both plastic blanks as well as CA finished blanks. Originally I used a mandrel and bushings to hold the blanks for buffing, but I do not like the grey metal rub-off from the mandrel and bushings that was contaminating my wheels. For a solution, I made a couple of tapered dowels with handles to use as tools to help hold the blanks. The taper fits tightly down into one end of the tube and I hold the other with my fingers - viola no more nasty grey on my buffing wheels.

Regardless of which buffing system you wind up with, I am sure you will like it. - Dave

 

[Hartwell85]

I guess I am spoiled. I bought the PSI lathe mounted buffing system, the two-wheel system designed by Barry Gross, that comes with the blue buffing compound. But, I am just too impatient about changing my lathe between buffing and turning, so I bought a stand-alone Rikon Low Speed Long Shaft buffer for my shop.

It came with 8-inch by 1/2-inch wheels. With the buffer running at its 1750 RPM which calculates to about 3600 SFPM (Surface Feet/Feed Per Minute).

Since the PSI/Barry Gross system uses 4-inch wheels with a recommended top lathe speed of 1700 RPM, the easy solution would be to use 4-inch wheels on the 1750 RPM buffer; however, I found the choices for 4-inch wheels to be quite limited versus larger diameters. So I settled on 6-inch by 1-inch wheels which run around 2750 SFPM. So far it has been working very well for me even with running 1000 SFPM faster.

I use two wheels, the first is a tightly sewn cotton on which I apply the PSI blue compound. The second wheel is a loosely sewn flannel that I use as a final buff.

So far this arrangement has been working very well for me on both plastic blanks as well as CA finished blanks. Originally I used a mandrel and bushings to hold the blanks for buffing, but I do not like the grey metal rub-off from the mandrel and bushings that was contaminating my wheels. For a solution, I made a couple of tapered dowels with handles to use as tools to help hold the blanks. The taper fits tightly down into one end of the tube and I hold the other with my fingers - viola no more nasty grey on my buffing wheels.

Regardless of which buffing system you wind up with, I am sure you will like it. - Dave

View attachment 345040

Dave - Thanks for the advice. I have considered a stand alone buffing system like you have for the same reasons. Hoping to catch a sale on the Rikon or similar low speed buffing motor. Seen used buffing motors for sale but all have been 3450 RPM motors. Good tip on the buffing wheels.

 

[monophoto]

I bought a set of three 8" buffing wheels from Harbor Freight, and made mandrels for each that screw onto the headstock spindle of my lathe - drilled a 7/8" hole that I threaded with a 1'x8 tpi tap (one of the first accessories I bought after I got my lathe, and something that I use very frequently). Then I mounted them on the headstock, drilled a through-hole and inserted a bolt to hold the buffs (which came with a washer designed to grip and hold the fabric. My buffing compounds came from various sources - red from Harbor Freight, white from PSI, and carnauba wax from a vendor at the Totally Turning symposium.

The greatest challenge was finding a way to store the buffs that would protect them from the inevitable dust in a turning shop. I found a large plastic food storage container at the nearby Ocean States Outlet (a cross between a big-box store and a dollar store) - it was cheap and has a snap-on lid that I'm certain won't last forever, but considering what I paid for it, it won't be painful when the time comes to replace it.

 

[TonyL]

I do not know what all use, but I believe the system that I set up "4-Stage Buffing Station" is in the IAP library. It has a a parts list and how to. I have been going this route for 6+ years.

 

[penicillin]

I would appreciate comments about how buffers are used for pens.

How do you hold the pen?
How do you move it around to buff it?
How do you know when you're done?
How do you know when you have "overdone" the buffing? How do you prevent it?

 

[TonyL]

I would appreciate comments about how buffers are used for pens.

How do you hold the pen?
How do you move it around to buff it?
How do you know when you're done?
How do you know when you have "overdone" the buffing? How do you prevent it?

Here is how I do it - just one of dozens of ways:

How do you hold the pen?
I use a long 1/4 inch dowel with tapered (almost pointed ends - sanded or whittled-down); larger or smaller dowels for larger or smaller inside diameter pen barrels. I don't practice this with an assembled pen - just the barrels.

How do you move it around to buff it?
One barrel at a time, I place the barrel onto dowel. I hold each end (top and bottom) of the dowel and gently "ride" the barrel surface up and down the buffing wheel from about the 3pm to 12pm position on the wheel while always moving and rotating the barrel with my thumb.

How do you know when you're done?
Experience. With lots of light, I would inspect my progress with a 20x loupe to make sure the scratches are getting smaller and less visible. After a few barrels, I found that I can ditch the loupe - but don't be in such a rush to do so; light colors with have you think you are done more quickly, dark colors are will have you think you have a long way to go (lots of light and magnification).

How do you know when you have "overdone" the buffing? How do you prevent it?
With experience and the loupe. Make sure you are not generating too much heat from the friction (slightly warm for a short time, then I plip the barrel around). Sometimes I had to "buff/sand through" to you have to to learn what too much is (experience is the best teacher).

Remember, as always, this is just the way I go about it.

I use Mercury flex or gluboost CA. Mercury flex feels softer and therefore I apply less pressure.
I apply about 8 to 12 coats of either brand (even on non-woods). Many think that is too much.

Good luck and pm me if you have more questions.

 

[SteveG]

I learned the following from someone here at IAP, years ago. This has to do with how much pressure to use, blank against the buff. Try to hold the item being buffed such that you are as close to NOT touching it to the wheel as you can. This is describing very, very light pressure. Many people have trouble and are never able to achieve a good finish due to excess pressure.

 

[Hartwell85]

I would appreciate comments about how buffers are used for pens.

How do you hold the pen?
How do you move it around to buff it?
How do you know when you're done?
How do you know when you have "overdone" the buffing? How do you prevent it?

Post on tool that I made to hold acrylic blanks for buffing.