Ready to Cast: PR or Alumilite & Qty

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MRDucks2

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Jul 17, 2017
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Bristow, IN
OK, Gang, ready to cast just haven't ordered any resin yet. Will ultimately try both PR and Alumilite but want some opinions on which to start with and how much to get first time out?

Over time we will embed items and cast into cut-outs from the scroll saw so I know I will need Alumilite then. Wife also makes jewelry, which will work best for that?

My goal is to keep the initial frustration factor down so wife loves it (she is pushing for casting) and grow from there.

We have 5 gallon pressure pot, large heated/cooled wood shop, compressor, crock pots, heats sources, oven, etc. so focusing on resin to start with. Thanks for the feedback.


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I like turning BOTH PR and Alumilite for pens.

But I find that PR shines up better .... at least with my polishing technique.

That said, I love the variety of colored and swirled Alumilite blanks now available from many talented members here, and from established vendors also.

PR or Alumilite .... either way, you are entering an engrossing, challenging and probably very rewarding phase of your pen-related career .
 
Your choice of resin will depend on what and how your are casting. Both have types have their strong points. As mentioned above, now would be a good time to try alumilite because of the great discount they give us during the month of Feb for the BASH.

Most of my tube on clear casting I use Simar polyresin. It's less priced, will give you a longer working time, and polish and shine easier and better than alumilite. The simple fix is put a CA finish over Alumilite. The down side, it smells bad, takes much longer to cure and is more brittle than alumilite. Both work great with pearlX but if your looking for a multiple color separation and swirl in your blanks, it's easier to achieve with Alumilite. Alumilite also doesn't shrink when it cures So it's great for pine ones and worthless wood type casts.
It will take some experimentation on your part to see how it all works for you but if your wife wants it for jewelry I would suggest starting with alumilite. Good luck and I look forward to seeing your results.
 
Which Alumilite should I buy for my first attempt at casting? Is there any benefit to the extra open time of the clear slow? What about white, is that ever used for pen blanks?
 
The biggest advantage of Alumilite over PR is the order. While there is some with Alumilite, PR will require mixing with as much ventilation in the shop as you can get.

Also, you might want to consider Liquid Diamond. It has absolutely no odor, even when mixed. However, it does take longed to set up even in a pressure pot. But the upside is that it has about a 45 minute working period. If you do go with LD do not try to add anything like mica powders or metal flakes until it starts to gel, otherwise they will settle to the bottom of the mold.
 
I too prefer PR because I get a much better polish, but each have their merits. If you go with PR, Silmar 41 from elitemotoring on ebay (Composite Envisions) is the best price I've found, even slightly cheaper than on their website. PR by the gallon or AL in the 2 gal kit saves you quite a bit over buying the smaller bottles and trust me, you'll go through it faster than you think. AL is much easier to get the swirly look with but I've done it with PR, you just have to time it right. You want it to thicken up, but not so much that by the time you get it in the pressure pot it's too late to solve the air bubble problem. AL costs about 30% more than S41 so you might want to try Silmar first in case you have some failures. I prefer the slow AL since you have more time for mixing colors. I've been too slow with 4 or more color pours with the regular and wasted resin. At the Alumilite site just go to products > turning resin.

Also, AL is the one to go with if making hybrid blanks, but I prefer PR for embedded items. IMO it's slightly clearer and the deeper shine shows off your work better.
 
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