Questions about connecting air tools to compressor

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JimB

JimB

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Joined
Mar 18, 2008
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West Henrietta, NY, USA.
Until now I have had a compressor without a tank so it was just used for shop cleanup and blowing up tires. I have bought a pancake compressor and will be getting some air tools for light work. In the instructions for the compressor it says I should add the following before the hose:

1. Ball shut off valve
2. Filter for dirt and condensation
3. Regulator to adjust air pressure to tool. This one really confuses me because I thought that was what the knob and gauge on the compressor did. Doesn't that just duplicate what I'm already adjusting?

So, my questions.

Do I really need all of the above?
Do I use quick connects for them or do I connect them differently such as with a 'permanent' coupling?

If you are still reading along, a couple more general questions.

Is there an advantage or disadvantage to the 1/4" hose vs 3/8" hose? I know they need to have the 1/4" connectors.
Do you drain the air from the tank at the end of every day or do you leave it pressurized if you are going to use it the next day.

Thanks for the help!
 
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Ball valve is a definite must. I would also use quick connects on your hose and tools. As for the separate regulator the one that comes on your pancake is probably the cheapest and least accurate one the manufacturer could find. Your call though. I do not use a moisture trap or filter on my compressors but I do release air from the moisture release valve regularly. I am in south Louisiana and the humidity here is to the point where we are developing gills so it is a necessity to vent the tank often. Having such a small volume tank as a pancake the trap and filter would be wise though.
 
JimB said:
Until now I have had a compressor without a tank so it was just used for shop cleanup and blowing up tires. I have bought a pancake compressor and will be getting some air tools for light work. In the instructions for the compressor it says I should add the following before the hose:

1. Ball shut off valve
A convient way to shut the air to the tool without turning off the compressor. Optional

 2. Filter for dirt and condensation
An absolute must especially if the compressor is used for painting or any finishing. It also keeps water out of the tools that can be a huge problem.

3. Regulator to adjust air pressure to tool. This one really confuses me because I thought that was what the knob and gauge on the compressor did. Doesn't that just duplicate what I'm already adjusting?

Duplicates if you have a gauge on the tank.
So, my questions.

Do I really need all of the above?
Do I use quick connects for them or do I connect them differently such as with a 'permanent' coupling?

Convience for sure. I use them all the time. Make sure the connectors are sealed. Use plumbers tape. Prevents air leaks.
If you are still reading along, a couple more general questions.

Is there an advantage or disadvantage to the 1/4" hose vs 3/8" hose? I know they need to have the 1/4" connectors.

With a small pancake compressor 1/4" is fine. Just like a garden hose though, the bigger the less restrictions and air to the tools is more readied.
Do you drain the air from the tank at the end of every day or do you leave it pressurized if you are going to use it the next day.
Again you are talking pancake compressor. Very little time to fill. Empty everyday.

Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...


Just a couple side notes. If this is an oiled compressor, change oil as recomended and use correct oil. Inspect any and all tanks especially as they get older. It is a bomb sitting there and rust is a killer. Inspect all tools and hoses. keep all tools oiled. Wear safety goggles at all times and never lock out the safety trigger on the gun. If using a rapid fire gun be aware. Have fun.
 
Stephen- my question about the quick connectors was for connecting those 3 additional parts together. I do have quick connects for hose and tools. thanks for your responses.

John - thanks for all the detail. It is very helpful. It is an oil less 6 gallon 150 PSI. It is HF ( I know everyone is not a fan of HF but it was only $100 with a Super Coupon).
 
filter, regulator, and ball valve should be hard mounted in line with the system in that case and in that order. Quick connects then should be used for hoses and tools as I suspect you were planning to do anyway.
 
Note that quick disconnects are a "system". They are not interchangeable. Pick a common system and stock a few extras. 5 years later it will make things easier when you add the latest tool.
 
Water in the line is a problem. Keeping the tools oiled daily (when in use) is a must. Each time I use a tool I drop 2 ro3 drops of oil into it before hooking into the line.

Bleeding the water is a good thing but trapping it BEFORE it gets into the compressor will extend the life of the compressor.

Different tools run at different rates. Most people don't bother to change the pressure for each tool. Doing so will extend the life of the tool. If these tools are going to be something you use daily to make your living......buy the best you can afford. If these are tools you are going to use for hobby or twice a week.......buy Harbor Freight and wear it out. Then get a new one. I have had several air tools from Harbor freight for many years. They work just fine. Of course, you can get a tool with a problem. That is why the return porgram is a bonus. Anything goes wrong ......return it and usually they will give you a new one.

Keeping the compressor in a clean area letting it have clean air will help to make it last longer.
 
Sabaharr said:
filter, regulator, and ball valve should be hard mounted in line with the system in that case and in that order. Quick connects then should be used for hoses and tools as I suspect you were planning to do anyway.
Click to expand...

Hmmmm... The owners manual is a bit vague and doesn't always show the ball valve but where it does show it the order is ball valve, filter, regulator. I'm not disagreeing with you, just checking since it isn't clear in all the manuals.
 
stonepecker said:
Water in the line is a problem. Keeping the tools oiled daily (when in use) is a must. Each time I use a tool I drop 2 ro3 drops of oil into it before hooking into the line.

Bleeding the water is a good thing but trapping it BEFORE it gets into the compressor will extend the life of the compressor.

Different tools run at different rates. Most people don't bother to change the pressure for each tool. Doing so will extend the life of the tool. If these tools are going to be something you use daily to make your living......buy the best you can afford. If these are tools you are going to use for hobby or twice a week.......buy Harbor Freight and wear it out. Then get a new one. I have had several air tools from Harbor freight for many years. They work just fine. Of course, you can get a tool with a problem. That is why the return porgram is a bonus. Anything goes wrong ......return it and usually they will give you a new one.

Keeping the compressor in a clean area letting it have clean air will help to make it last longer.
Click to expand...

Just very light and not often hobby use so I was planning on HF tools.
 
I was saying the ball valve should be the last thing before the disconnect. Unless you are filtering air before it enters the compressor (a good idea in itself) it should be the first thing exiting the air line, then the regulator in between. You just need to decide on filter placement.
 
A pancake compressor will provide enough air for nailers, air brushes, and filling tires. Not much else. Sanders and die grinders need a lot bigger compressor! I tell guys, cut the end off the hose, if it can maintain 50 psi, it's big enough for a sander. A condensation filter right at the compressor will only do a marginal job. Separating moisture from hot air directly at the compressor takes a complicate rig. Separating moisture 30' from the compressor is way easier since the air has cooled. A small desiccant canister right at the tool is very effective, and some of them can be baked in an oven to dry out the desiccant. I have a ball valve at the compressor. I shut it off after every use. If I would get a leak in a line, no problem. But get a big leak in the line when I'm on vacation, and I might come back to a burnt up compressor.
 
You should have a couple of places to drain water from any air system. And I NEVER leave a compressor on over night, let alone take a vacation and leave it on. Any piece of equipment should be turned off when nobody is around.

THINK SAFETY FIRST
 
JimB said:
KenV said:
Note that quick disconnects are a "system". They are not interchangeable. Pick a common system and stock a few extras. 5 years later it will make things easier when you add the latest tool.
Click to expand...

I didn't know that. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I guarantee you won't buy half enough.
The water traps are intended for use with paint guns, airbrushes or anything that a tiny amount of H20 will ruin. Many paints can't abide even a drop of water without ruining the paint job.
Needless to say, this also goes for powdered carbide....boom. :wink:
 
stonepecker said:
Bleeding the water is a good thing but trapping it BEFORE it gets into the compressor will extend the life of the compressor.
Click to expand...
Filtering water before compressing the air is a losing proposition. Compressing air will do two things:
  1. It will condense water out of the air. The amount of water vapor that air will hold depends on volume. Reduce the volume (i.e. compress it), and it will hold less water. Even if you put a water filter in front of the air intake, condensed water will still collect in the tank.
  2. It will heat the air. Compressing air raises its temperature. And, warm air will hold more water vapor than cold air. Therefore, even though some water condenses out, the relative humidity of the compressed air will be higher than the ambient air. As this air cools, water will condense out of it. This can happen in the tank, in the air lines, or as the air expands in the tool (expansion cools air).
Therefore, you need both a tank drain, and an inline water filter. Commercial operations put an "air dryer" (which is a refrigeration unit) after the compressor to chill the air and therefore remove the water vapor from it. Home units should have a F/R (filter/regulator) or F/R/L (filter/regulator/lubricator) in the compressed air line. The water filter will be most effective at the tool end of the hose (when the air has had the most time to cool). Disposable paper filters are practical and inexpensive. For example, I have a disposable water filter and inline regulator at my powder-coat gun.

A year or two ago, I put a 2-stage compressor with 80gal tank in my shop. It has an automatic tank drain, a ball-valve shut off (so I can leave the tank pressurized while bleeding the lines), and a filter/regulator at the tank exit. I prefer to lubricate my tools manually as some (such as paint guns) don't like oil. My lines are all unlubricated air. The air lines are all angled so that water will drain back towards the tank/filter. I have three drops (taps where I can connect tools/hoses). Each one has a water drain below the air tap.

Now, you don't need anything that elaborate on a pancake compressor (I have one of those too). The built-in regulator and shut-off valve work just fine. An inline filter at the tool (if necessary) serves the purpose. Just bleed the water out of the tank periodically, and you'll be ok.

I hope that helps,
Eric
 
Thanks everyone for your responses! This is why asking questions here is so great. There is always a lot to learn even when doing something as simple as buying a small air compressor and a couple air tools for the first time. I've learned a lot from everyone's responses.

Thanks!
 
Home depot stocks basically three types of female connectors.. They have one that is coded Red for a specific male fitting, one that is coded yellow for a different male fitting and one that is coded red/yellow that fit both. Not sure why anyone would buy anything different than the red/yellow. :) :)
 
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