Question on Pen Stand / wood bending

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Jmaxcy

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I want to start making pen stands for offer alongside my pens. I am aiming for something like the picture below. I'm assuming this requires wood bending to accomplish. From what I've seen this can be done by making a steam box but was curious if anyone else does this and if there is an alternative way to do it? If the piece was thin enough could running clothes iron over it on a steam setting work (covered with something like a sheet)?

I have an exorbitant amount of rather thin strips, as I make cutting boards as well and have to start my process by ripping a straight edge.

Thanks in advance!
 

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jttheclockman

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No and maybe. Maybe some people can make with bending but doubt it. They are usually cut from flat boards as you see the width is about 3/4" I cut them on a scrollsaw but a bandsaw works well too. Draw yourself a pattern and cut it out making up your own designs.
 

Jmaxcy

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No and maybe. Maybe some people can make with bending but doubt it. They are usually cut from flat boards as you see the width is about 3/4" I cut them on a scrollsaw but a bandsaw works well too. Draw yourself a pattern and cut it out making up your own designs.
Thanks! I figured that's an alternative route but wanted to try to use some of the scraps I have from cutting boards. Might give it a try with an iron and see what happens. Worst thing is I lose a piece of scrap I was going to throw out anyways!
 

Kenny Durrant

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Well if the bending doesn't work you can use your cutting board experience and glue up the strips and cut the stand out of that. That might be easier than bending. If you made a pattern out of a block of wood you might be able to glue up a few strips and bend them around the pattern while they dry. That way you'd have different fibers helping to hold the curve rather than one set of fibers trying to return to their original shape. Just a thought.
 

monophoto

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This is a subject that I have always found fascinating, but that I've never actually tried myself. So fair waning - I may not know what I'm talking about!

The problem with cutting a curved pen stand like this from a single board is that the finished stand is fairly thin, which means that there are sections as you move away from the center of the arc where the fibers in the wood are rather short - which means that there will be weak points that can break if too much pressure is applied on the curve. So the question is how to avoid that problem.

Bending the wood means that the fibers will run from one end of the arc to the other, avoiding the short fiber problem. OP proposed steam bending using an ordinary steam iron as a source of humidity and heat. My intuitive thought is that a steam iron won't produce enough heat or steam for long enough to be able to bend the tight radius that he wants to achieve.

Another solution is a glued lamination comprised of three or more thin layers of wood. But the problem with applying the bent lamination technique for this project is that the desired arc has a fairly tight radius which requires rather extreme bending.

But what about combining the notion of steaming with the lamination technique. Obviously, you can't glue wet wood, so it would seem that these two techniques are conflicting. However, I found this video ( ihttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7FuNHshRnw) in which the maker demonstrates a two-step proces in which he first bends the individual laminations, allows them to dry while bent, and then glue them together, with both the bending and gluing taking place in the same form. Also, rather than using some kind of specialty steaming jig, he simply soaks the thin laminations in water prior to bending. To me, that approach might be the simplest way to achieve a curved stand in which the wood fibers are continuous from one end of the arc to the other.

The other point that I noted in researching this question is that while PVA glue is normally the preferred adhesive for gluing wood, there is a problem when using it to glue laminations. Specifically, PVA requires air to cure, and if there are multiple laminations, it may take longer for air to get into the center of the glue-up to cure the PVA. That's not an obstacle, but it does mean that the glue-up must remain in the clamps for much longer to assure that the glue has fully cured - potentially several days depending on how many laminations are involved. An alternative is to use a good-quality epoxy that cures chemically rather than from air contact.
 
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I want to start making pen stands for offer alongside my pens. I am aiming for something like the picture below. I'm assuming this requires wood bending to accomplish. From what I've seen this can be done by making a steam box but was curious if anyone else does this and if there is an alternative way to do it? If the piece was thin enough could running clothes iron over it on a steam setting work (covered with something like a sheet)?

I have an exorbitant amount of rather thin strips, as I make cutting boards as well and have to start my process by ripping a straight edge.

Thanks in advance!
I agree with others suggesting glue lamination.Make a solid block form with a radius/shape a little tighter than you require.(to allow for spring back after release)
Make a corresponding form of a radius/shape, the thickness of your shape different. Meaning allowing for a gap the thickness of your item between the forms.Coat or wrap to prevent adhesive bleed out sticking everything together.
If you have many thin rippings,have them slightly wider than you require and around 2mm thick.
If required form is a consistent/symmetrical radius you could make the forms longer to allow more than one item to be made at a time.
Without something to hold steam formed shapes in place they will tend to creep out of shape.
 

dogcatcher

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Cut a form using plywood then wrap it in plastic. Get some veneer and start gluing/laying up the shape to the form.
Watch this, the scale it up to size.

Hint a piece 4" PVC pipe for a BIG ring shout be about the right size. But polished up, that pipe might be what you want to use.
 

leehljp

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Cutting a half circle stand with a bandsaw of scroll saw will result in grain changing and weaker spots that are more prone to breaking. There are ways to strengthen it but the grain changes, which in some cases might be desirable.

It may have been written above, and if so, I apologize for missing it. I have done a few bent wood pieces about the length you are wanting without a steam box.
1. cutout the form to accept your "steam bent" wood that has been cut to shape and length.
2. get a large pot and put two or three inches of water, put 3 or 4 of the pieces of wood in and bring to a boil.

Use gloves of course, take out one at a time and place into the form; do the same for the other.

The drawback from this is that it does seem to raise the grain on some woods considerably and it will take a few days in a warm dry place. Do allow for it to "open up" somewhat after taking out of the form.
 

woodchick

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How thin are your pieces? You might be able to sand them thinner and then use a combination of steam or iron or heat gun, and lamination as mentioned above, to get your shape. Guitar sides are bent over a hot pipe, that might work in your case.
 

Mortalis

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I was asked to repair the bent wood springs on an antique baby carriage for a friend or mine's wife. Laminated and glued thin strips can be easily bent around a form. I tried the steam bending but unless you have the right wood it is very difficult and very messy.
 

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Jmaxcy

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Cutting a half circle stand with a bandsaw of scroll saw will result in grain changing and weaker spots that are more prone to breaking. There are ways to strengthen it but the grain changes, which in some cases might be desirable.

It may have been written above, and if so, I apologize for missing it. I have done a few bent wood pieces about the length you are wanting without a steam box.
1. cutout the form to accept your "steam bent" wood that has been cut to shape and length.
2. get a large pot and put two or three inches of water, put 3 or 4 of the pieces of wood in and bring to a boil.

Use gloves of course, take out one at a time and place into the form; do the same for the other.

The drawback from this is that it does seem to raise the grain on some woods considerably and it will take a few days in a warm dry place. Do allow for it to "open up" somewhat after taking out of the form.
Thanks Lee!

I think I'll start off by trying this process, easiest by far. Don't have to build a steam box. Once it is in the form, how long do you let it sit for before releasing? I'm not in a hurry, so I was going to let it sit for a while but curious. Thanks again
 

jttheclockman

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To me if you are going to go this route to use up scraps then get creative. Many cool ideas out there. Mix and segment colored woods. Veneers are your friend too. Have a look on Pintrest for ideas. Lets see what you come up with. We have a pen stand and pen box forum here that was created for things like this. We use to have a pen stand and pen box contest in the Bash party but that fell out of favor quickly. There are many ways to display those special pens that are cool. I like seeing innovative ideas. I get so bored looking at plain Jane pens these days. But that is just me. Good luck and show us your work as you progress. Have some fun.
 

Fine Engineer

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I was going to recommend the veneer method as well. Look for rolls of edge banding without the hot melt glue backing. These are uniform in width and thickness, and very flexible. Use epoxy to adhere the strips together and bend over a form like a pipe of the right diameter. Very easy and very uniform which are both good criteria for a short run production part.
 
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