triw51
Member
I need a chuck for the used lathe I purchased a few weeks ago. Does anyone have experience with the "Teknatool Nova Scroll Chuck" ? Is it good quality? There is a used one for sale he is asking $75 any suggestions? Thanks
Question on NOVA chuck
- Thread starter triw51
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Dan Masshardt
Member
That description could describe all of their chucks. Might refer to the 'original' nova chuck but you should ask for more details.
I believe all of the nova chucks are good quality. I have and recommend the nova g3
I believe all of the nova chucks are good quality. I have and recommend the nova g3
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I love my Supernova2..but it's a different beast altogether. I don't know much about the Nova, but here's a link:
Teknatool - Products [Chuck]
Teknatool - Products [Chuck]
mikespenturningz
Member
I have the G3 and love it. Use it every day.
Dale Lynch
Member
I use a Nova G3 on my shopsmith without a speed reducer and it has never lost grip.Biggest thing I've rough out on it was a 13x6 bowl blank that weighed about 40lbs.Scary as hell but it didn't come off.
trooperjd
Member
I too have the nova g3 and have had good luck with it. No issues to report as it does well on my rikon 70-100.
edstreet
Member
Does this answer your question?
Left is G3, right is Supernova G2 top view:
Left is G3, right is Supernova G2 bottom view:
cole jaws and 4" jaws:
2" jaws and faceplate ring:
and finally 1" jaws:
On that $75 deal, what is included in that? You should get a wood worm, Tension bar, 2" jaws and the chuck. If not then you probably need to check Nova Reconditioned Products from the manufacture. This can save you some $$$$ and it is a very often over looked option. For most things you can get by with the 2" jaws. If you are doing bowls and the like then the face plate ring is very good as well as the cole jaws.
If your lathe swing is very small i.e. miniature then get the midi, if up to 14" then get the G3, if OVER 14" then get supernova G2. Default should be the G3. Also you need to look at the motor size and not go larger than you need.
Left is G3, right is Supernova G2 top view:
Left is G3, right is Supernova G2 bottom view:
cole jaws and 4" jaws:
2" jaws and faceplate ring:
and finally 1" jaws:
On that $75 deal, what is included in that? You should get a wood worm, Tension bar, 2" jaws and the chuck. If not then you probably need to check Nova Reconditioned Products from the manufacture. This can save you some $$$$ and it is a very often over looked option. For most things you can get by with the 2" jaws. If you are doing bowls and the like then the face plate ring is very good as well as the cole jaws.
If your lathe swing is very small i.e. miniature then get the midi, if up to 14" then get the G3, if OVER 14" then get supernova G2. Default should be the G3. Also you need to look at the motor size and not go larger than you need.
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edstreet
Member
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7mZwHivyTA
This is my G3 chuck. Note how free it moves.
They may tell you to don't do this but I hose mine down with break cleaner or engine cleaner. That quickly removes all the crap from the insides and lubes it up good. You can also jam some shop towels in the back of the chuck to block dust from entering if the work item is stupidly dusty.
::SuperNova G2::
The Supernova G2 has a block to catch junk from entering which is all find and dandy, HOWEVER the Supernova G2 also lacks the robust breaker bar / wrench that the G3 has, it favors the allen-head wrench socket. The Supernova G2 also has more weight which can mean problems for lower load motors (like HP) My Supernova G2 is designated exclusively for the cole jaws which is for finishing the bottom of bowls. It makes things way easier to just pull the chuck off and slap the other one on instead of changing the jaws.
::G3::
The G3 has a very robust breaker bar and gear heads which also allows crap to enter the gear mechanism. If you have to take the chuck on and off the lathe repeat often then you want the G3 chuck.
::Spindle stuff::
Take it from my fubar experience and get a spindle washer or 2 and keep it on the lathe at all times Metal on metal contact with torque pressure is nasty tightening strength so this can be a b!t$# to get off, it makes for a very bad shop experience, fustration and loss of turning time. With 1 or 2 washers they come off with ease. The only down side is this can introduce slop and make things wobbly. These can be made from things like milk cartons and other plastic material but you want it THICK so may need multiple layers. I keep 2 on hand.
Turners Select No-Lock Spindle Washer | Shop Supplies | Craft Supplies USA
::Faceplate::
Doing bowls? This is perhaps the best faceplate you can get. It fits to the 2" dovetail jaws (from the stock set) and allows you to easily remove the work item, reverse it and not have to remove the chuck. Put faceplate on the wood block, clamp it then cut a 2" dovetail on the tail stock side. Then you can flip it around as you wish. This results in a tighter fit and precision on the shape. Removing the faceplate from the lathe and putting the chuck back on can introduce some wobble in the material. This also speeds up time. They come in 2" 4" and 5". This one is a 2" (50mm) I would also suggest buying 2+ of them, often I find myself needing another one. One cleaver way is to incorporate the foot into the dovetail foot. That way you can toss it back on the lathe and start turning more.
Buy Nova 50mm Face Plate Ring at Woodcraft
NOVA Faceplate Ring 2"
NOVA Faceplate Ring 4"
NOVA Faceplate Ring 5"
::Cole Jaws::
The last goodness item is the cole jaws. These jaws are not the quality material you come to demand from the company. They are cast flat blocks but for what they do and their function that is plenty good enough. They are NOT for heavy pressure. The #1 job t hey do is for LIGHT cuts on the foot to remove the dovetail and make it flat on the bottom. What I did was put my 4" jaws there (can also use 5" or so) on the inside because not only do I have out but I have IN pressure. Neither of these are safe for serious cuts and use as low speed as possible. They do make replacement knobs but so farI have not had any bad things happen to mine. Keep in mind to the bowl can and likely WILL jump track and fly off if you touch it with to much force. Tail stock with a flag type live center works wonders there.
This is my G3 chuck. Note how free it moves.
They may tell you to don't do this but I hose mine down with break cleaner or engine cleaner. That quickly removes all the crap from the insides and lubes it up good. You can also jam some shop towels in the back of the chuck to block dust from entering if the work item is stupidly dusty.::SuperNova G2::
The Supernova G2 has a block to catch junk from entering which is all find and dandy, HOWEVER the Supernova G2 also lacks the robust breaker bar / wrench that the G3 has, it favors the allen-head wrench socket. The Supernova G2 also has more weight which can mean problems for lower load motors (like HP) My Supernova G2 is designated exclusively for the cole jaws which is for finishing the bottom of bowls. It makes things way easier to just pull the chuck off and slap the other one on instead of changing the jaws.
::G3::
The G3 has a very robust breaker bar and gear heads which also allows crap to enter the gear mechanism. If you have to take the chuck on and off the lathe repeat often then you want the G3 chuck.
::Spindle stuff::
Take it from my fubar experience and get a spindle washer or 2 and keep it on the lathe at all times
Metal on metal contact with torque pressure is nasty tightening strength so this can be a b!t$# to get off, it makes for a very bad shop experience, fustration and loss of turning time. With 1 or 2 washers they come off with ease. The only down side is this can introduce slop and make things wobbly. These can be made from things like milk cartons and other plastic material but you want it THICK so may need multiple layers. I keep 2 on hand.Turners Select No-Lock Spindle Washer | Shop Supplies | Craft Supplies USA
::Faceplate::
Doing bowls? This is perhaps the best faceplate you can get. It fits to the 2" dovetail jaws (from the stock set) and allows you to easily remove the work item, reverse it and not have to remove the chuck. Put faceplate on the wood block, clamp it then cut a 2" dovetail on the tail stock side. Then you can flip it around as you wish. This results in a tighter fit and precision on the shape. Removing the faceplate from the lathe and putting the chuck back on can introduce some wobble in the material. This also speeds up time. They come in 2" 4" and 5". This one is a 2" (50mm) I would also suggest buying 2+ of them, often I find myself needing another one. One cleaver way is to incorporate the foot into the dovetail foot. That way you can toss it back on the lathe and start turning more.
Buy Nova 50mm Face Plate Ring at Woodcraft
NOVA Faceplate Ring 2"
NOVA Faceplate Ring 4"
NOVA Faceplate Ring 5"
::Cole Jaws::
The last goodness item is the cole jaws. These jaws are not the quality material you come to demand from the company. They are cast flat blocks but for what they do and their function that is plenty good enough. They are NOT for heavy pressure. The #1 job t hey do is for LIGHT cuts on the foot to remove the dovetail and make it flat on the bottom. What I did was put my 4" jaws there (can also use 5" or so) on the inside because not only do I have out but I have IN pressure. Neither of these are safe for serious cuts and use as low speed as possible. They do make replacement knobs but so farI have not had any bad things happen to mine. Keep in mind to the bowl can and likely WILL jump track and fly off if you touch it with to much force. Tail stock with a flag type live center works wonders there.
KBs Pensnmore
Member
Hi, basically you can't go wrong with a Nova/Teknatool chuck. I prefer the G3, as it is open on the back which means that any dust that is in there can easily be blown out with compressed air. Once a year I take mine apart to clean it out properly, its a simple operation, just take out the large circlip from the back and the spiral back gear slides out. The jaws slide out after undoing a limiter screw. Care must be taken when reassembling it, the jaws must be put in the right order otherwise they will be out of alignment.
No lubrication is required, otherwise it will collect the dust and bind.
Any of the Nova/Teknatool jaws will fit both models of Chucks, be aware that there is a Compact Model chuck that is tightend with a couple of tommy bars, they will not accept the other models of jaws without a lot of work.:frown:
Kryn
No lubrication is required, otherwise it will collect the dust and bind.
Any of the Nova/Teknatool jaws will fit both models of Chucks, be aware that there is a Compact Model chuck that is tightend with a couple of tommy bars, they will not accept the other models of jaws without a lot of work.:frown:
Kryn
KenV
Member
William
That is the tommy bar chuck. No keys like the examples avove. Uses two rods that fit in holes. I have one in the chuck bucket and it works fine. Just need to learn how it works every time I get it out. Three hans helps.
Price is high. Nova sells the like new reconditioned version for under $80.
For that price look for extra jaws to be thrown in.
That is the tommy bar chuck. No keys like the examples avove. Uses two rods that fit in holes. I have one in the chuck bucket and it works fine. Just need to learn how it works every time I get it out. Three hans helps.
Price is high. Nova sells the like new reconditioned version for under $80.
For that price look for extra jaws to be thrown in.
flyitfast
Member
I use the G3 and the SuperNova 2, depending on what I am turning. I like the Nova line of chucks because all the jaw sets will work on either chuck.
Check with Woodcraft. They sometimes have a sale on the chuck and include several jaw sets. Sale happens every other month or so. Usually, a pretty good deal.
Only other cost is the adapter to fit whatever spindle size you have on your lathe.
gordon
Check with Woodcraft. They sometimes have a sale on the chuck and include several jaw sets. Sale happens every other month or so. Usually, a pretty good deal.
Only other cost is the adapter to fit whatever spindle size you have on your lathe.
gordon
triw51
Member
WOW thank you guys that is a lot of information. I really appreciate your input. I realized the one I was looking at was a mini and am now looking at the factory reconditioned g3 or supernova I just need to sell a few items. Thank you all again for your input
islandturner
Member
Ditto -- they are great chucks. And for Canucks, they are on sale this month at KMS, as well as 4" jaws. They're in their flyer, page 43. (Absolutely no affiliation....
)
Almost always on sale at KMS tools - I'm a big fan of Bob's, and he always donates a chuck to the Bash...
No affiliation here either - just a happy customer!
Andrew
No affiliation here either - just a happy customer!
Andrew
triw51
Member
OK to keep you updated I purchased a factory reconditioned super nova chuck with 50mm jaws for $109 dollars (the G3 was only $10 dollars less so went for the bigger chuck.) Can't wait for it to arrive so I can play. Thanks again for your input and advice I do appreciate it.
edstreet
Member
Don't forget the washers to put between the chuck and the head. Otherwise it could jam and you will be fighting to get that off. The washers makes it easy to remove and does not degrade the spin.
Nice thing about the supernova is that it has a square insert nut, so easy to get a good grip on it with big spanner wrenches. My other chuck does not have that...