Question? I just purchased a Grizzly G0462

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Wildbill1988

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And I need a 6" tool rest as it only came with a 12", anyway when I put the micrometer on the post it is a .97 inch. So the question is: Are the tool rests that are advertised as 1" going to work? Or am I going to need to find someone to modify it for me?

Also I really want a left hand wheel, is there a mod for this? As this lathe doesn't come with one.

Thanks all
Bill
 
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magpens

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You measured the diameter of the post, right ? . Can you measure the diameter of the hole it goes into ? . I'll bet it is a few thou bigger.
And I would also bet that a nominal 1" post will fit.

Now, about the wheel ..... are you talking about the wheel that advances/retracts the tailstock insert ( chuck or live-center ) ?
 

Mr Vic

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Their specs say 25mm safest bet is order an extra 12" and cut down to size. Order 2 and cut one to 3" for between center turnings. No Idea on the wheel.

 

Mr Vic

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You measured the diameter of the post, right ? . Can you measure the diameter of the hole it goes into ? . I'll bet it is a few thou bigger.
And I would also bet that a nominal 1" post will fit.

Now, about the wheel ..... are you talking about the wheel that advances/retracts the tailstock insert ( chuck or live-center ) ?
Think he's talking head stock. It doesn't have one.
 

More4dan

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Try this thread with the same question. Someone found a Jet hand wheel to fit.


Danny


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Wildbill1988

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The inner dia was mic'd at .98, and yes I'm looking for the left hand wheel. If someone knows the internal thread size on the back of the spindle would be great...

Thanks All
 

Curly

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You should check into Rick Herrell’s products and he is a member here.
 

leehljp

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I have a G0462 also and have long wanted a left hand wheel. Looks like I need to find a left hand thread 1/2 x 12TPI bolt.

Thanks Danny for the link.
 

bsshog40

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You should check into Rick Herrell’s products and he is a member here.
Yea I bought a 6" tool rest for my G0462 from Rick. Very nice!
 

More4dan

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I have a G0462 also and have long wanted a left hand wheel. Looks like I need to find a left hand thread 1/2 x 12TPI bolt.

Thanks Danny for the link.
Might not be quite that easy as a 1/2” x 12 tpi bolt. Does the JET part come with the bolt?



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monophoto

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The specs for this lathe say that the spindle is a 1"x8tpi thread, with a 3/8" bore. Usually, the threading on lathe spindles is consistent from one end to the other, but obviously that's something to check before leaping into making a handwheel. If it is 1"x8tpi for the full length, then making a handwheel should be very easy.

There are a few YouTube videos on making a handwheel for lathes that don't come equipped with one - Mike Peace did one very recently for his new Laguna lathe, see .https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EMWUTrNUjh8. In his case, the lathe came with a small diameter handwheel which could be unscrewed, and replaced with a faceplate to which the handwheel was attached with screws.

Many years ago, I made a handwheel for a low-end ShopFox 1704 lathe that had a pair of nuts on the spindle shaft, so my approach was to remove one of those nuts and glue it into my handwheel.
 

leehljp

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I just checked the threads and it was iffy. The threads are behind the metal housing wall by about 1/8 inch. I checked with a gauge and because it was inside the shaft which was behind the wall housing, I could not tell if it was 12TPI or 13 TPI left hand.

the reason I wanted to check is that I checked at McMaster-Carr for left handed thread bolts. For some reason they don't have 12TPI in 1/2 inch, only 13TPI on 1/2 inch.

The strange thing that might make it doable with 13TPI is that the threads (12TPI) inside the shaft are only about 5 threads deep, not very much.

The other thought I had - would be to find someone who sells a LH 1/2 x 12TPI die and make my own.
 

monophoto

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I just did a search that disclosed this thread on the subject of handwheels for the Grizzly lathe : https://www.penturners.org/threads/grizzly-g0462-lathe-hand-wheel.67353/. The bottom line is that Jet offers a handwheel that fits.

Also, here's a thread about a similar problem with a Harbor Freight lathe that can use the same Jet handwheel. https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/d...tock-handwheel-question-hf-34706-and-jwl-1236.

My experience, and also that of Mike Peace, is with adding a handwheel that has a female fitting that threads over the outside of the spindle shaft. The referenced thread suggests that the Grizzly spindle has an internal (female) thread rather than an external (male) thread, and further that it is the very strange 1/2"x12 tpi threading. Furthermore, the specs for the Grizzly says that the spindle bore is 3/8", which means that adding anything to the outboard end of the spindle using that female thread would likely interfere with using a knockout bar.

Also, the photographs I've seen indicate that the headstock housing completely encloses the ourboard end of the spindle. But what those photographs do not show is how much room there is within that housing - which leads me to wonder if it would be possible to make a coupling that slips over the outboard end of the spindle and is held in place with a couple of grub screws, and to which the handwheel is then attached. A slip-over coupling has the advantage of not interfering with the knockout bar (provided you leave a hole in the shop-made handwheel). Frankly, because a handwheel isn't exposed to a lot of torque, that coupling could even be made of wood. I would be inclined to glue several layers of wood together to make a blank so that I could embed a couple of t-nuts to receive the grub screws rather than relying on threads in the wood. Alternatively, if you can find a short length of pipe with an ID that matches the OD of the spindle, you could us that to make a coupling by simply drilling and tapping a couple of holes for the grub screws.
 

leehljp

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leehljp

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ONE MORE UPDATE:

I went to the Jet site and it was slow and did not process my order; there was a link on Jet to ereplacementparts.com and I looked it up there.
Here is the link to the hand wheel on ereplacementparts.com:

I have ordered from them twice before and they were very quick in their service. The last was about 18 months ago and ordered a replacement pump for my pressure washer. Worked great on my 8 year old PW.
 
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Hi Hank and all,
I did add the JET 708344 handwheel to my HF34706 lathe, and it worked out pretty well - it was a direct fit, but likely because that HF lathe was a pretty close knock-off of the JET 1236.

The JET 1236 handwheel was a solid cast piece (and chromed...) with the a threaded shaft protruding from the side of it that fit directly into the female end of the headstock spindle. And it was a pretty snug fit, likely because of the chrome. The solid threaded shaft didn't allow for the use of a knockout bar through the handwheel, and I never did try to drill it out, so I stopped using the MT2 centers in the headstock spindle once installed, and transitioned to a drive center "system" from PSI that had a threaded adapter to fit the 1x8 spindle, and several interchangeable sizes of drive centers that threaded into that. You can find that here: https://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTSET.html

I even used the handwheel to mount a Hall effect sensor which allowed me to add a digital tachometer, I have a cheesy video of that here:

Would be interesting to know if the 708344 handwheel fits the G0462. But I did ultimately switch to a different lathe that already came with a handwheel of sorts (belated tool gloat warning...
)
 

leehljp

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I got the Hand Wheel in last week, and mounting it was simple and straight forward. However, the wheel created two more problems for me.

1. The hand wheel does not have a hole in it through which to use a shaft to tap out a stuck MT2. Below is an overview of drilling out a hole to use a tapping shaft that I posted on another forum. I drilled out a 1/4" hole because I didn't like the idea of a hole being too large and destroy the integrity of the hand wheel shaft at the point of the 12TPI threads. I bought a 3/16" by 36" wire rod, and made a tapping shaft.

2. The second problem is that my lathe is fit into a space just long enough for bed to fit. So I had to move the head stock forward/inward until the motor was not sticking out beyond the bed rails on the left end. What that did was - that once the hand wheel was added, it did not allow the locking lever for the head to be turned no more than about 1/4 of a turn. If the motor were outboard of the end of the bed rails, there would be space to allow the head stock lock. For now, I will just lock it in place and then put the hand wheel on.

Drilling the center hole on the new hand wheel for the Grizzly G0462:
I am not a scientist or engineer but I most certainly discovered that there can be a huge difference in drill bits by brand.

I have a Grizzly G0462 lathe and it does not have a hand wheel on the left end, but it is threaded for one. I ordered the hand wheel and discovered another anomaly - the hand wheel does not have a hole through the center line - through which to use a rod to tap out MT (morse taper) shafts when they are stuck.

So I decided to drill out a hole by mounting the wheel's shaft in a chuck and drilling from the tail stock. I got my Ti HF bits to use and it kept wanted to skate (the bit was new.). I tried a different bit, same thing. I figured I needed a cobalt counter sink bit to get the hole stared, but could not get one within the needed time, so I decided to check HD and Lowes. Lowes had DeWalt PILOT POINT titaniums, both in sets and individually. I bought a single 1/4" Dewalt pilot point to bore a hole through the hand wheel shaft, about 2 1/2 inches. It did not skate and bored though the soft steel like it was butter. Of course I used cutting oil and it was smooth drilling all the way. I would drill in 1/4" to 3/8", pull out, and add drop of oil and drill another 1/4 to 3/8".

I have never had normal titanium bits drill that easily. When I finished, I cleaned the the Dewalt pilot point and it looked clean and hardly used.

Anyone else familiar with the differences in Titanium plating on different brands? I was shocked in the differences. It could have been the pilot point itself, but it seemed from my observation and feel that it was a much higher quality bit than the HF Titanium.
 
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