Question for finishing acrylic pens

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mcpesq817

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Jan 25, 2019
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Arlington, VA
I'm very new to this, and am about to start with some acrylic pens this weekend. Unfortunately I have a Sherline lathe with 8" between centers which has been tricky to say the least to figure out how to drill blanks, etc. But, I think I've found a solution for drilling, and I have a mandrel that seems to fit the lathe for turning, so I think I'm on my way.

For buffing though, I don't think that I can fit the 2-wheel and 3-wheel Gross/Beall system on my lathe because I don't have enough clearance to the bed to accommodate 4" wheels. I've seen stand-alone units like this one from PSI and a few other small ones like from HF, Jet, etc.:

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/PROBUFF.html


Rather than buy another machine, is it possible to buy polishing wheels for my Dewalt 6" bench grinder? The speed seems a little high, but also seems to run high on some of the other polishing units. It is this unit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000224J3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Does anyone use a bench grinder with buffing wheels? Any recommendations on which wheels I should be looking at? There are so many options and applications out there that I'm a bit lost as to where to start.

Thanks very much in advance!
 
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bgio13

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Nov 11, 2007
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I don't use my buffer on acrylic pens. I wet sand with 600 paper, then move to wet Abralon pads up to 4000. Novus 2 & 3 and finally finish with Meguires PlastiX. This is what works for me, hope this helps.
P.S. I think the speed is too high on the bench grinders, you might end up actually burning the acrylic.

Bill
 
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dogcatcher

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TX, NM or on the road
I bought some 4" wheels from Caswell plating and made a mandrel that screws on to my Taig lathe. I drilled and tapped a 1.5x1.5x3 block of wood, only drill and tap deep enough to fit the spindle threads. Turned it round and then drilled and taped the tailstock end for a 1/2-20 bolt. These pics are not on my Taig, but to give you an idea of what you want to do. I also think I picked up small buffing wheels at Harbor Freight, but unless you have the compounds, I would wait and order from Caswell Plating.

Before going to Caswell read this link. http://www.penturners.org/forum/f30/buffing-kicked-up-notch-55476/
He covers the compounds and the buffing wheels.
 

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lathe monkey

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Oct 29, 2016
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Ottawa Valley Onatrio Canada
I bought some 4" wheels from Caswell plating and made a mandrel that screws on to my Taig lathe. I drilled and tapped a 1.5x1.5x3 block of wood, only drill and tap deep enough to fit the spindle threads. Turned it round and then drilled and taped the tailstock end for a 1/2-20 bolt. These pics are not on my Taig, but to give you an idea of what you want to do. I also think I picked up small buffing wheels at Harbor Freight, but unless you have the compounds, I would wait and order from Caswell Plating.

Before going to Caswell read this link. http://www.penturners.org/forum/f30/buffing-kicked-up-notch-55476/
He covers the compounds and the buffing wheels.
wow i just got my wheels and compound from caswell today!! after reading the kicked up a notch, i bought a 2 wheel 6 inch buffer and put canton wheels. no more micro mesh for me, love the set up.
 

magpens

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I don't think you need buffing wheels.

I have made around 2000 pens in the last 10 years and do all my sanding and polishing by hand using lengthwise strokes ONLY and rotating the lathe by hand (not under power). . If you want any more info about my techniques and materials, please let me know.
 

mcpesq817

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Jan 25, 2019
Messages
37
Location
Arlington, VA
I bought some 4" wheels from Caswell plating and made a mandrel that screws on to my Taig lathe. I drilled and tapped a 1.5x1.5x3 block of wood, only drill and tap deep enough to fit the spindle threads. Turned it round and then drilled and taped the tailstock end for a 1/2-20 bolt. These pics are not on my Taig, but to give you an idea of what you want to do. I also think I picked up small buffing wheels at Harbor Freight, but unless you have the compounds, I would wait and order from Caswell Plating.

Before going to Caswell read this link. http://www.penturners.org/forum/f30/buffing-kicked-up-notch-55476/
He covers the compounds and the buffing wheels.

Unfortunately I don't think I can use 4" wheels on the Sherline. The height off the bed is just under 2". Raising the head and tail stock would set me back about $120. At that point, maybe getting a dedicated buffer and/or putting the money towards a wood lathe would be a better use of the money.

https://www.sherline.com/product/1291-headstock-riser-block-set/

Thanks for that link - very interesting! I'm wondering if I should start with buying the Caswell wheels and trying them out on the grinder. Will be a pain swapping wheels in and out and having less room to buff, so I could see buying something like the HF buffer.
 

TonyL

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Mar 9, 2014
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Georgia
Acrylic Buffing

I buff acrylics and CA finishes.

The same is in the Library.
 

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Sly Dog

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Boise, Idaho
I probably have a lot to learn about buffing because I have the two-wheel buffing system (I think I got it from Arizona Silhouette) and I don't see a remarkable change in the shine if I have done a careful job with micromeshing the blank and applied a plastic polish (I use Hut). I just bought a bench work light with a magnifier - which I wish I'd done a long time ago. Last acrylic pen I turned, I couldn't see anything but the tiniest scratch or two under 5x mag in the pen surface after completing the above process and decided not to buff because I didn't think buffing would improve it.
 

More4dan

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Mar 17, 2016
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Katy, TX
I use a 2 wheel 6" buffer that runs at 3600 rpm. Your grinder will be fine with 6" pads. I sand my acrylic pens 320 lengthwise dry, 500 wet sand, Micromesh wet sand 1500-12000 alternating between lengthwise and turning. Final buffing with only one pad and a very fine Pink rouge. I have also used Miquires polish on the lathe but the buffer give a bit deeper shine. I buff in both directions with lite pressure and a sure grip.

I would polish on the mandrill at first to help hold onto the blanks but now that I turn between centers I can never find it. I do occasionally launch a blank when I loose focus for a second.

I sometimes will buff between sanding CA finishes on wood to check for scratches from lower grits or if I sanded through the finish.

Danny


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
 

TonyL

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Before using a buffer on acrylics (non-finished wood), I used wet MM then followed it with Meguire's 105 (their most aggressive cutting compound), the Meguire's 205 (less aggressive cutting), then Rejex synthetic wax. I still use this method for TruStone and M3 blanks. However, the key for me was minimizing tool marks by using a shearing cut (and in my case a skew).
 

Charlie_W

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Nov 16, 2011
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Sterling, VA USA
I have seen a grinder at Lowe's which has variable speed so you can dial your desired speed. It might be a Delta brand.

Yes, I do buff.
Process:
> Wet sand with Barry Gross acrylic sanding pads ( six grits....usually only use the 4 finer grits ) Turn lathe off and wet sand two finest grits lengthwise by hand.
>Barry gross plastic polish applied by hand and rubbed lengthwise...again no power. Let dry to a haze, buff off by hand lengthwise with cotton T shirt...no power.
>Using Barry Gross 2wheel buffing wheels, buff lengthwise. I hold the pen blanks on a pencil while buffing.

Test your buffing techniques with a black acrylic blank....the black will show any scratches.

Good luck!
 

mcpesq817

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Jan 25, 2019
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37
Location
Arlington, VA
Harbor Freight has a bench buffer for $52 but with a 20% coupon, it can be purchased for $42 + tax.

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-buffer-94393.html

Thanks! :) That might be the best option. I was thinking about trying to use my lathe or bench grinder, but it seems like having a dedicated buffer makes more sense (especially at that price point). I saw the coupon the other day and for $40, seems a pretty low cost option.
 
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