Quality Bushings?

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bassman00

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Danbury, CT, USA.
I assume like all kits, all bushings are not the same. I've been using PSI bushings for my Slimlines and Comforts since those are the kits I've been making. However, I noticed while making Cigars from Berea CSUSA that the bushings didn't leave marks on the sandpaper. The PSI bushings leave black marks on the sandpaper and if I'm not careful could discolor certain woods.

Am I seeing things or would it be better to grab Berea or CSUSA 7mm bushings and use those?

Thanks.
 
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The caveat is to use the same bushings from the same distributor for their own kits.
That being said I do interchange bushings for similar designs,but your mileage may vary.
It has been my experience that the residue from bushings will stain eventually,that's why I put a coat of CA on the bushings before sanding.
 
Ever thought of making your own bushings. The scraps from trimming plastic pen blanks make good bushings. So does Corian. You can custom fit them to any diameter and length. There is no black residue to stain the wood. And with a little care, they will last almost as long as steel.

Use short pieces of brass tube to fit them to the mandrel.
 
Fred - The sandpaper is about 1"-1.5" strips folded in 3rds. The MM is size I got it in. I think it's 4x3"? I lightly fold it over. I'm sure most of my problem is taking more care while sanding.

Russ - Another great idea. This site is overflowing with information. I'm doing a trade with John in Alaska and he's sending me some Corian in the trade. I'll try making bushings out of scraps or anything I screw. I haven't turned anything but wood to date so I'm sure I'll blow a few blanks up.

Thanks.
 
Paul, I find it easier not to hit the bushings with the sanpaper when I use narrow strips. I cut mine about 5/8" wide for one time use.

200513115613_sandphl1.jpg
 
why not make your own from brass. I made some a couple of years ago from some brass i got from my pen supplier 3/4" od X 1/4" thk and drilled for a pen mandrel. It turns easily with a parting tool.

200513116202_bushings.jpg
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Fred - I haven't cut up my MM yet. I did buy a couple of sets from Ryan's sale last month so I'll start with those.

Nice sandpaper holder, BTW. I might have to steal that design.

Thanks.
 
I keep full sheets in a file. I cut a couple sheets of each grit to size ahead of time, and put them in the holder. If I remember correctly one sheet makes about 36 strips. Saves a lot of time and frustration while sanding.
 
http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3414&whichpage=1#27492

Russ, YOU are a genius. I have some corian that I hadn't ventured to try a pen with yet. But I have wanted to make bushings with longer tenons in the tube for the larger bore kits.

I have a new task to try. Thanks!.

BTW, for a mandrel that is approx .244, what would be the drill bit to use for the bushings so I wouldn't need a brass tube in them?

6mm == .236 : too small?
6.5mm == .255 : maybe too large?
1/4" == .25 : still too large?
31/128== .242 : may work but where the heck do I get one?
63/256== .246 : do they make such an animal?

Maybe I'll stick with 7mm and glue in the brass tube [xx(]

Bill, I use an accordian file too [:D]
 
Look in the MSC catalog for decimal size drills. Measure the mandrel and order the same size for a tight fit, but a couple thousandths over would be a good choice. Lubricate the drill with soapy water for a tight hole with a smooth surface.

They are a more expensive drill bit, but you only need one of them to make a lot of bushings.
 
Cool, Russ. Thanks. My desired bushings would have the tenons almost fill the tube to minimize flex. I'll google for MSC catalog. I do have an Enco catalog that I'll check too. Didn't realize I could get decimal bits.
 
In trying to find a good way to clear my tubes of any residual glue I found out that one of my drill bits that's labeled 1/4" is really closer to .247" Maybe that would be a close enough fit. Chuck if want to borrow it you can (but I will need it back as I do need it to clean out my 7mm tubes!)

Ryan
 
I cut all my paper in 1" strips and stack them in order then hold them all with a large metal clip that I hang close to the lathe . I also fold each piece to give me a 1/2" strip to work with , this gives me 2 different edges to work with , the folded edge for getting into small areas and the open end for getting sharp corners when needed .
 
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