PSI super gloss friction polish

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joe004

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Cabot, ar
I recently got a can of the lacquer based super glos friction polish from PSI. After trying it several times I am not real happy with the results. I have gone by the directions on the can as well as trying differnt ways to apply(more or less pressure), each time i do not achieve the shine i want. Has anyone used this and are there any tips you could give me? Thanks in advance.

1. I sand to at least 600 grit
2. Wipe with denatured alcohol to remove any remaining dust
3. Apply polish using paper towel or lint free rag for approx. 20 seconds
4. Repeat application but cant achieve a nice shine
 
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What type of wood are you using?

Tight grained woods will generally shine up better than open grain woods when using any friction type finish.
 
Each person has his own definition of what constitutes a 'nice shine'.

I bought a can of the PSI Super Gloss Friction Polish a few years ago, and was happy with the results I got. The finish wasn't like a layer of glass, but that's not what I wanted.

This is a lacquer-based friction polish that is harder than the more common shellac-based FPs, but that doesn't build or become as glossy as the shellac versions. If you go to the PSI web site and pull down the MSDS, you will find that it's really a William Woodwrite product that PSI relabels.

I rarely use it anymore. Instead, I have a shop-made formula using lacquer, tung oil and lacquer thinner (equal portions) that is much less expensive and that produces a slightly less glossy finish that I prefer.

And to Carl's point - the wood really does matter. Open-grained woods may look very nice initially, but eventually the grain will dominate leaving much less gloss that would be the case with a closed-grain wood.
 
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I've only tried on a few, they were buckeye burl and sparred maple. The maple was just a small test piece and I ended up resanding the buckeye and using shellawax which seemed to have a better shine to it.
 
Did you buy the high gloss or semi-gloss and did you use their sealer product? Lacquer sealers usually have zinc stearate which will soften final finish. Already stated works better on closed than open grain woods. Will work on open grain woods too but takes more time.

I would apply the first coat with the lathe off making sure not to flood the surface. Little dabs will do it! Wait 20-30 seconds before turning lathe on and applying pressure to generate heat. Would follow same procedure for additional coats.

You can make your own lacquer based friction polish mixing equal parts of Deft gloss lacquer, lacquer thinner and boiled linseed oil. I prefer to brush/wipe on Deft with out thinner or dip method when using lacquer. Yes takes more time but much better sheen.

Shellwax probably a better product.
 
I tried the PSI gloss lacquer but it didnt really produce a gloss finish. By accident I actually found the lacquer sealer they sell in a similar can produces a much better gloss. That is my main pen finish today. As noted the closed grain woods will produce a better shine. I always use at least 5 light coats rubbing with the lathe on high speed to build heat, 1 pass per drop of finish on the rag at a time going one direction and than reversing. I also reverse the lathe after the first two passes to get the best grain fill I can. I have also found I get more gloss if I wait 30 seconds between coats.

One note, it is not a very thick film like CA is so dont plan on sanding or any real vigorous buffing after you are done applying the finish.

10 coats usually takes me about 7 minutes.

Lastly I apply a little ren wax as a little added extra measure of protectionk which may actually knock the shine down just a tiny bit but still a solid semi gloss to gloss.

Again, its not CA though.

Hope this helps.

Ray
 
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