Protecting Metal Finish

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Gilrock

Gilrock

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Joined
Oct 18, 2011
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560
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Tucson, AZ
I've been working on my PITH pen the last couple weeks and I'm trying something new for me....all metal parts. I have two worries....it's looking like the parts are coming out beautiful but it might end up being better for display only cause it's a bit heavy and I'm not sure how best to protect the metal surfaces. For now I've buffed the parts with wax using the Beall buffing wheels. I have some brass parts and for now the pen body was made from one of those steel rods you get at Home Depot that says it's zinc plated mainly cause I didn't have any aluminum large enough. The steel body looks awesome but it's a bit heavy...I may end up switching to aluminum. Oh and the one other issue I've had is even though I have the really expensive 12x0.8 triple die the threads on steel just don't come out looking very good and I'm afraid to mess them up trying to polish them.

So I'm wondering what I should do for a finish on the metal. I've been interested in the anodozing threads lately but I haven't been able to view the videos yet so I don't know if it's easy enough to make what's needed to anodize a clear finish.
 
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Did you use a tap fluid of any kind when making the threads? That will help. You can polish those threads fairly easily, they are harder than you think. If nothing else stick the part back on the lathe and use an old toothbrush and polishing compounds to clean them up. Anodizing on aluminum produces a clear finish then if you want you dye it. It takes a 12v power source, some battery acid, pure aluminum wire or grade 2 titanium for supporting in the acid bath.
 
I don't know the metal compositions. I might be able to find what type of brass I ordered from Online Metals but the steel from Home Depot good luck on that one.

I do use fluid when tapping but its probably not the right stuff. I got these bottles of oil from Ace Hardware that I've used for all my drilling and tapping and lubricating the lathe. It's called Zoom Spout Turbine Oil from Norvey, Inc.

I had thought about taping up the body and trying to polish the threads using the Beall buffing wheels which I think gets loaded with Tripoli, White Diamond, and Carnuba Wax....whatever stuff was sold with the wheels. It took a long time to make that steel body so I didn't want to mess it up.
 
Home depot steel is 1015 and A36, onlinemetlas is c385, c260, c230, c770, c792, C360 or C365.

fluid is just that a fluid. It is not designed for open air protection. Fluid IS designed for sealed body usage, i.e. transmission, jacks, crank case, where it's all sealed up and protected from outside influence.

This is where and why the various plating options came about. If you are unable to plate it then use something like cosmo or the like till you can.
 
You know, I've had this question as well. I see pens made from steel and even when protected on the outside, what happens when the inside starts to rust and makes it's way through...how would one stop this? I imagine like everything in the world of pen turning "CA" glue might be the solution...? Perhaps those that work with steel and various other metals can chime in.

Best of luck
 
The fluid we were talking about was in regard to how the threads came out not how to protect the metal. Probably was confusing since I started to ramble and talk about multiple issues. :)
 
wiset1 said:
You know, I've had this question as well. I see pens made from steel and even when protected on the outside, what happens when the inside starts to rust and makes it's way through...how would one stop this? I imagine like everything in the world of pen turning "CA" glue might be the solution...? Perhaps those that work with steel and various other metals can chime in.

Best of luck
Click to expand...

Most pen turners generally work with metals which don't rust. Aluminium, stainless steel, titanium are all safe bets which won't cause an issue.

Oxidising can be an issue with aluminium as it tarnishes quite quickly naturally in air. As Mike quite rightly said anodising is one way around this, creating a controlled oxidsed layer which can then be sealed.

laquers, polishes etc can be used to protect the metal somewhat, though as it would be handled often, it won't last very long.

Plating is an option, however you may want to avoid brush plating as the thickness may not be durable enough to handle being handled all the time. tank plating would be a better solution.

As mentioned, powder coating, though this will drastically increase the size of the parts, and could cause issues with threading etc.
 
Thank you. Yea I was thinking about some of the damascus steel I've seen and how steel likes to rust. Speaking with some people who own them they use a fine coat of oil to keep them clean, but the inside was always the question. I'm sure there's always a way like you said...protect the inside then finish the outside skin.
 
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