Precise turning and fitting?

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Woodchipper

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I'm having a bit of confusion when turning the ends of a blank to match the diameter of the kit. I went from measuring the bushing which will wear down over time to measuring the diameters of the kit parts. Would it be best to turn down the ends to match the kit parts and then turn the rest of the blank? And how do you recommend this? Have fourteen kits to turn. BTW, I want to be as precise and of top quality as they will be on the market locally.
Thanks to all for your help here.
 
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I find it easier to turn the blank close to size to begin and work it down to the desired thickness all at once, but I turn most of my blank pretty straight with minimal taper at the ends. By turning the ends to size first I feel like I risk over turning while bringing the rest of the barrel to size.
 
Most kits I am a straight blank guy but kits like Sierras I leave a little tapper to form to the kit profile. But I always work the entire blank together. i then use the skew to make the final passes to get me to exact dimensions I need to match the kit parts. Never to match the bushings.
 
I never thought of turning the ends first, but upon thinking about it, if it works for you then do it. However Turning the whole blank to near size will help define the fine angle of your last cuts, or how straight your blank will be.
 
I wold work the whole blank but "concentrate" on getting the ends to dimensions of the kit. I wouldn't turn where the blank would look like a camel. I have a 1/4 parting tool and a DIY Bedan tool, might play around with those. Got lots of wood! John's use of the skew opens up more possibilities.
 
This begs another question I have always wondered about - how much do you overturn, i.e. turn to a diameter slightly LESS than the kit part, to allow for CA finish??
 
This begs another question I have always wondered about - how much do you overturn, i.e. turn to a diameter slightly LESS than the kit part, to allow for CA finish??
I measure the kit parts and turn to the size of the kit parts. I do check the bushings for accuracy to those dimensions and then will use the bushings to get to where I I use a skew for fine tuning the ends and I turn them exactly (or as close to) but never have I intentionally turned the end under the bushing sizes. I sand 320grit and then 600 grit with the bushings in the blank and I go until I cannot feel the change from blank to bushing. I then remove the bushings and turn directly tubed blank between centers to final sanding of around 800 to 1000 grit. I will also at this time ever so slightly round over the edge of each end. This eliminates the sharp feel of weird transition once the kit is assembled.
Ever so slightly is relative but not much more than 1/2 mm or about 1/64 in.
 
Get 2 calipers; 1 digital and one mechanical(cheapo). Throw away all your bushings!! Measure each component at the interface with the blank, transfer that measurement to the Cheapo and then turn the blank and sand it to match. Check it with the digital, if you wish, but 99% if the time you will be right on the money! ! P
 
Get 2 calipers; 1 digital and one mechanical(cheapo). Throw away all your bushings!! Measure each component at the interface with the blank, transfer that measurement to the Cheapo and then turn the blank and sand it to match. Check it with the digital, if you wish, but 99% if the time you will be right on the money! ! P
How do you turn without bushings?
 
How do you turn without bushings?
Turning between centers. There are a ton of posts on here about it. If you are experiencing concentricity (commonly but not correctly referred to as out of round) issues, this is one of the best things you can do to resolve them. Concentricity issues are when you have a perfect blank-kit interface on on side of the blank but are over or under on the other side (or you have a bad but not consistently bad fit all around) . There are many potential causes, but assuming your lathe is tuned and working as it should, nonconcentricity usually comes from the pen mandrel being bent or the bushings being unevenly worn. Turning between centers greatly reduces the chances of this happening.

If you are not experiencing issues with concentricity, and the bushings are working for you, I don't recommend changing things. If you are, get yourself a dead center for the headstock, a 60-degree live center for the tailstock, and a pair or two of decent calipers, then turn the barrel between the two centers, using the calipers to determine your final dimension. The disadvantage is that you can only turn one half of a two-barrel pen at a time, and you'll have to develop patience and restraint in your turning as it's easier to overshoot without bushings. The advantages are better fitting pens, fewer issues with pens getting stuck on bushings, lower costs because you no longer need to purchase (and re-purchase when they wear out) bushings, and better access to the ends of the blank if you want to do rounded ends as suggested by @Mortalis.

To answer your original question, I don't turn to a specific amount below the desired diameter. I simply turn until I can feel the slightest bit of slop when I check with the calipers. The digital read-outs on both my sets of calipers have long since quit working, and chasing a specific measurement to that degree of accuracy is a fool's errand on a wood lathe anyway. Your CA coats are likely to be measured in thousandths of an inch, so you don't need to go much below your target diameter. As I said, I go just until the difference is perceptible with calipers. I imagine you could use the same strategy with bushings as well. Use your bushings only as a guide, and begin checking with calipers once you get close to your final diameter. Even without calipers, you could turn by feel just until the bushing is perceptibly larger than the blank.
 
The suggestion about calipers is a good one. I use digital calipers. I have some that are Harbor Freight and some that are Mitutoyo. The HF ones are good enough. Put the caliper on the Fitting, then press the "Zero" button. You now have a target size to shoot for. Put the caliper on the blank to see how much you need to remove.

The next part depends on wood or synthetic and how thick a finish you use. Wood I finish turn with a skew, sand for no more than 30 seconds from 150 thru 600. I want the raw size to be -.005 undersized. I apply 3 coats of thin CA to the blank using cone delrin bushings. Final size should be +.000" / +.003" Your results may vary.....

This is a pet peeve of mine. A wood pen should FEEL AND LOOK like wood! As a final "buff" I apply 0000 steel wool to the blank. Give it only a few seconds turning. It will not remove the finish, just give it a nice wood feel and matte finish. I know, shiny sells, and synthetics get the buffing wheel treatment and smooth as glass.
 
RunnerVince, I have all the things you list but am wary of putting the tube directly on the dead center and live center. My concern is flaring the ends of the tube.
Been turning the idea over for HDPE bushings to substitute for metal bushings. Have some but they are a bit too big for 7mm tubes.
 
RunnerVince, I have all the things you list but am wary of putting the tube directly on the dead center and live center. My concern is flaring the ends of the tube.
Been turning the idea over for HDPE bushings to substitute for metal bushings. Have some but they are a bit too big for 7mm tubes.
As long as you don't crank your quill down, it's not an issue. I just tighten the quill, and then turn. If my work spins when the tool touches, I stop and tighten the quill a little--or else back off the aggressiveness of my cut. I cracked one or two blanks when I first switched to TBC, but that's far lower than the number of sub-par pens I made before switching to TBC.
Once again, if you're not experiencing non-concentricity, there's no need to switch. But you can use the measuring techniques I and others have mentioned above whether your using a mandrel or a TBC setup.
 
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