Very simple I believe I just showed this to someone else recently
What I do is take a piece of metal stud which you can get in Home Depot, in fact I use a couple of them if I am doing alot of tubes. I used threaded rod cut up in pieces but you could use anything. You could use bolts, metal drywall screws or the like as long as it is metal. I screw them into the metal stud and stagger them back and forth so that when spraying I can get around each one with no problem. I slide the tube over the bolt and then take small piece of tin foil and wrap around the extended bolt and it slips into the top of the tube ever so slightly just to block the tube from overspray. Do not want that inside the tube. I use tin foil on the bottom also. You can reuse these as many times as you would like. Have been using mine for a few years now when I was using them. I use to do all my bullet casings this way when I made the cartridge pens at one time. I sprayed them with clear.
I did not use a nut and washer at the top because it will become part of the tube and be hard to get off especially if the threads were sprayed. Plus it may crack the coating. Very easy to take the thin tin foil off without problems. You can also use silicon corks for the tops too.
I then spray away and take metal stud and put in my oven that I bought on clearance at Walmart for practically nothing. It was dented and returned. Set timer and good to go. Works very well. You can set this up to do as many as you can fit in oven. By doing this no shaking where the product falls off the tube before baked. Just a warning, if doing 2 part kits keep some kind of record to identify tubes later. Belive me you will not regret it.
I should specify, the jig on the left is for tubes and the one on the right was for bullet pens when I was clear coating thus the need for poprivets which were thin to go into the bullet easier.
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Absolutely. Notice I used a angle strap on the stud to anchor to the pan. I then attach ground wire to the pan and it is out of the way. Makes easier to now carry and place in my oven without banging and knocking off the powder. Tin foil on bottom is just to keep pan clean. I believe I got this idea from CaptG many years ago. I could be wrong and if someone recognizes the photo forgive me for not remembering. It has been many years ago that I started this. It may have even been Eric because he was doing bullet pens way back when and believe he started the whole thing. Memory is not what it use to be. But here is a photo with silicon plugs used for the tops. As I said it is imperative you do not get powder in the tube or you will have a bear of a time to clean it out. Powdercoating is tough stuff.
Thanks John.Have no idea but I use it on brass cartridges for true bullet pens and holds up real well and keeps brass from tarnishing.
Depends on how thick you apply the powder. I like to just cover the object I am coating without seeing any visable signs of open spots. Never measured. I am sure there are numbers on a powdercoating vendor site.Thanks John.
How thick is the coating. If I was coating a finished cap rings say, would it be neglegably proud of the the finished body. Or would I have to make the ring slightly undersized.
Gary unfortunately HF is a poor source for tools and in this case they change manufactures all the time and you can wind up with different sizes. They basically use a lid from their bottles as the cap and that is why they screw on. Not all bottles have the same lid. You can save the empty bottles or you can try here. https://caswellplating.com/paints-and-coatings.html Years past their bottles worked on the HF gun. Maybe at one time they got them from that company. But it is worth a try. This is why I mentioned if you are really going to get into this you may want to buy from a reputable company as the one I just linked or the one I buy from. Columbia Coatings.Thanks again. I think if anything I under sprayed the clear coat. 2nd batch came out better. I agree about the HF powders, first I tried was matte black, didn't come out so well. Then my shipment from the Powder Coating Store came in, I had much better luck with them.
One more question: are there any cups you can buy that are compatible with the HF gun? I've read that the Eastwood ones don't fit. Funny, even the container that the matte black from HF came in didn't screw onto the threads on the HF gun. I saw a .STL file for an adapter, but I don't (yet) have a 3D printer.
John makes several excellent points here.You can overspray to a point. If you overspray unevenly you can have areas that are larger and you will feel the difference. Also it can run and sag if oversprayed. Clearcoat is a different color than brass so you should be able to see any missed spots easily. HF is a cheap gun to begin with. I do use them but you must make sure you thoroughly clean them. You need to watch if the gun starts spitting and you will get orange peel like feel. I suggest never use water to clean gun or bottles. Always blow out with compressed air.I never use HF powders. I always buy my powders and equipment from Columbia Coatings. Professional equipment and supplies. They have every color, texture and type powder you can imagine.
You need to make sure that your project is grounded and can not interrupt that when spraying or again you will get gun to spit.